PrimoChill Hardline/Rigid Watercooling Tubing Finishing Bit (RFB) - Ream/Deburr/Trim - 12mm ID x 16mm OD

If you're working on a water-cooled PC build and you're not using the PrimoChill Hardline/Rigid Watercooling Tubing Finishing Bit, you're missing out big time. This tool is an absolute game-changer for anyone dealing with hardline tubing.Chamfering the tubes, which is crucial for a perfect fit and finish, literally takes just 2 seconds with this bit. It's incredibly efficient and takes away so much of the hassle typically associated with preparing tubing for a water-cooling system. The ease and speed at which it works are just phenomenal. It turns what used to be a tedious part of the build process into something quick and enjoyable.The quality of the finish it provides is equally impressive. It leaves the edges of the tubes smooth and perfectly angled for insertion into fittings, reducing the risk of leaks and ensuring a clean, professional look for your setup.I can't emphasize enough how much of a beast this tool is. It's well-built, durable, and perfectly designed for its purpose. Using it has made my water-cooling setup process much more straightforward and enjoyable.In conclusion, the PrimoChill Hardline/Rigid Watercooling Tubing Finishing Bit is an essential tool for any DIY PC builder venturing into custom water-cooling. It saves time, effort, and ensures a high-quality finish to your tubing work. Don't do a water-cooled build without it – it's that good and absolutely worth the investment.

I picked up one of these for my first PETG loop build, which used Thermaltake V-Tubler lines. I also got the Thermaltake mandrel kit, which comes with its own combination reamer tool, but the hand reamer has a tendency to chatter and skip on the ends of the lines, and therefore doesn't give a very clean finish for the amount of effort involved to get any sort of passable result.Enter the PrimoChill bit. I found out the hard way that you want to use this with an adjustable speed drill. When I started my build, all of my rechargeable packs for my cordless drill had died, so I had to revert to a cheap single-speed corded drill that I had lying around. Unfortunately, the single-speed spun way too fast to get a decent result. It would end up melting the ends instead of cutting them, and sent PETG shavings all over the place -- including into the cut ends, where it would melt and stick back onto them if I wasn't careful. Nothing that the hand reamer and an Xacto couldn't clean up, but it was counterproductive overall. Once I was able to switch over to my variable-speed cordless drill, I started getting infinitely better results.The trick is to start out extremely slowly. Hold the tube as steady as you can, and if you are able to rotate it slowly while chamfering, it does help even out the cut. If your hardline fittings are deep enough, the ends don't have to be completely even, but you do want to make sure that the outside edges are nice and smooth so you don't chew up the inner o-rings in those fittings. Start off slowly with the drill, and then use a few short bursts of full speed (no more than a second or so), and then finish out on low/medium speed. Repeat if you need to shorten the end by a few millimeters. A few turns against the bit while the drill is off can also help trim off any remaining flash.All in all, great product; it probably saved me from a repetitive stress injury.

It works really well when you get the hang of how much pressure you need to use. Too little or too much force on the tube and there’s a chance it’ll snag and snap the acrylic tube. Haven’t tried with PETG tho but I’d imagine it’s easier as it’s not as brittle as acrylic. But a very useful tool if you take the time to learn how to use it.

Don't understand the negative reviews. I mean, I guess I do, but the comments that I mangles the tubes or the bearing doesn't fit right, IMHO, are user error. I don't believe the bearing needs or is supposed to fill the internal diameter of the tube. It's there in case it becomes out of alignment so it doesn't shatter your tube. Otherwise, as long as you hold straight pressure, evenly, it's self centering. I would recommend turning your drill down to a slower speed (if possible), it doesn't require high rpm to be effective. Slow and steady makes quick work of acrylic, save a lot of time smoothing the outter and inner tubing. It also requires a lot less to get a smooth end. Don't over think it, don't over do it; it's not a hammer. Done right it will save you time and leave a perfect finish to you tube cuts. Definitely recommended.