TarragoShoe Cream Professional Shoe Polish for Leather Boots, Shoes, Purse, Furniture Eco Friendly Leather Conditioner 1.7oz - Black #18

Untreated boot on the right, treated one on the left.I was taking a chance here, since these Mia "Jody" Boots are 100% faux leather. They're by far the most comfortable all-day boot I've ever worn, more so than any high quality, high price leather brand, so it was worth finding out if I could spruce them up a bit after over a year of constant wear. Also, I wanted to lean a little more into a rust tone, since my favorite Portland Leather Goods bag is more of a russet shade.This is what one coating of the Russet Brown cream did to the original 'Luggage' brown color of the Jody Boot. I'm absolutely stunned, it's beautiful.I cut a narrow strip from a regular dish sponge for precise application, and just scrubbed the cream into the vinyl—including the sides of the sole, and the heel, which are also vinyl. I let it sit for one minute to dry down, then buffed it well with a soft microfiber cloth, which produced very minimal transfer. Basically a 5-minute makeover.Since the Mia boots are so inexpensive—I got these brand new for about $30 when on sale—I plan to get another couple pairs to see how the Red or the Purple creams might transform brown faux leather. It's clearly pigmented enough to alter color, not just renew it. Highly recommended, obviously.

Great product! We used it on our truck seats and on the leather couch and they look amazing. Love that it is available in so many colors and it goes on like butter!

I watched and read a lot of reviews for best shoe polish and this one had good reviews. No it will not give a crazy high mirror shine like a certain popular brand, but it gives more of a satin finish.I used it to add some hydration and black color back to some older pairs of shoes. They helped to revive the color and eliminated scuffs I had on a pair of boots I loved.I used rubber gloves to protect my hands from any staining and buffed it out with a horsehair brush. A little goes a long way and it was easy to apply and pull from the tin.Also liked it doesn’t have as obnoxious as a scent as some brands.

This product provides a deep rich color for my scuffed up COACH purse, but use cautiously. Contents is more of a liquid consistency rather than a paste. The glass container it comes in has no directions. The label is in Spanish. I found some info on YOU Tube but related to shoes. With caution, I applied the creme with a Q-Tip to saturate the edges of my crossbody leather strap. I did not dye the entire strap, to allow a portion of the strap to hang, in order to thoroughly dry. I dyed the balance of the strap, the next day. On 3rd day, I dyed the bottom part of my purse, by placing it upside down in a tall jar which enabled it to dry. On the 4th day, I used a soft paper towel to remove the dried creme. Scuff marks are gone and my COACH purse has been rejuvenated!! Amazing product but labor intensive, in order not to make a mess!

I don't normally do reviews but I am doing one in this case, because this is the best shoe cream we have ever purchased! It is an exact color match to a purse that needed touchups. And the quality is excellent. Perfect texture and color. Wife is very pleased because her beige leather purse is now "like new!" We will buy more of this brand of shoe cream for sure. Highly recommend!

I use this product to restore the color worn areas on white leather purses because of its high pigment content. I also use a small stipple brush for applications to get the pigment into the open folicals of the leather skins. It gives a like new quality finish is easy to apply. I find it a great value for my work.

I am a former shoe cobbler. I am writing this review for anyone, but also anyone with knowledge of or interest in solvents, paints, adhesives etc because I like this product a lot, but it has very specific applications in my opinion and I would want to know these before purchase in some contexts.This is, in essence, a water-based paint. It cleans up very readily with water should it wind up on unintended surfaces. This is true even after cure of two months, in my experience.For context, I have a pair of Manolo Blahnik heels made of a matte/nubuck dupe fine grain leather in a solid pale ice blue. I was wanting to turn these metallic with a product that would not crack or peel over time, and hoped to avoid doing something permanent that I would come to regret/find irreversible. I did not want to saturate the leather with a dye, as darker was not my goal... simply metallic, and the ice blue was a good background for applying something silvery. I used the bright silver in this polish, but I trust that any mettalic by the same brand would be very good. I will be buying more.I set out to 'rub' this product into the leather surface as I would with a Meltonian shoe cream. The effect was not the same. This product does not saturate the leather whatsoever, but simply sits on top and accumulates by layers. It then dries, and this is why I consider it to be more of a paint, and my application recommendations are discussed further below. In my initial application I attempted to apply the cream consistently in one layer using a cotton ball (because I'm lazy), which resulted in fine hairs of cotton embedded in the polish layer AND (most importantly), patchy areas where the polish did not adhere to the leather as well as others. As I attempted to 'spot' apply more polish to these areas, I noticed the problem was that the fresh wet polish was wirking like a solvent to break down earlier, dried applications and remove these. Because the stuff readily removes with water alone, I abandoned the project for over a month knowing that the next time I applied I would instead use a small brush and lay consistent layers on top of each other, allowing thorough dry time in between, and build to the desired saturation.Thankfully my (then) theory about water clean up was correct and some several weeks later I was able to remove all the polish down to the very same leather I started with using cotton balls and water. I can now start anew with paintbrush application. I recommend that users treat this like an acrylic paint. Do not rub on and expect the stuff to adhere to the leather outright (I had the perfect canvas for this stuff to stick to... a raw, matte, open-pored nubuck). Assume it will lift itself in multiple applications and lay down layers with no opportunity for these to lift with additional rubbing.Of note, when I returned to the shoes to remove my first attempt, I noticed that the thickest area of application had cracked. I hadn't worn them at all, so this occured without stress to the base leather. The cracking was very fine... in ceramics it is called 'crazing' and that's a good description of what I witnessed. Very fine cracks densely dispersed in the areas where the cream had built up excessively. I flexed the leather in these areas to see if there was any sign that the cracking would lead to peeling, and there was no indication that the polish was separating from the leather. I would consider this a superficial characteristic of the polish, and it would not bother me if it occured on my final preparation. Certainly not when I can simply wipe this stuff off over time and reapply to freshen up my shoes. At any rate, I believe that if I apply consistent layers with the brush/painting technique and keep the overall application thin and consistent, the crazing may not even occur or become an unmanageable issue.And, my Manolo Blahniks look positively metallic silver. They look incredible. I will be buying more of this stuff. If you want metallic leather, this is your bliss. Because it is water soluble and highly soluble over time, know it might now be a long-term solution for something that gets a lot of surface contact like a handbag or billfold. If I were thinking of an appropriate product for those applications I would want this same product, but oil based.