TRQ CV Axle Set for Toyota Sienna 2011-2016

Semble de bonne qualité et instruction facile reste à voir la durée de vie 🤞👍

كشكل ومضمون يبدو ان خامته وجودته ممتازه لكن للاسف لا يوافق سيارة ميركوري ميلان مديل2010 محرك6سرندل واتمنى التوضيح او تغير او حذفه من موقعه بانه موافق سيارة ميركوري ميلان مديل 2010 سعة المحرك6سرندل (انتظرت كثيرآ وبالتالي لا يوافق مركبتي وهذا في غاية السوء) وزاد السؤ سوء الى الان لم يتم اسنرداد مبلغي المالي

For anyone looking for an honest review here it is. Was hesitant to buy these because of some of the reviews. But considering how expensive some OEM ones are, I went for it and I am not disappointed. Purchased these for my 1998 Impreza Wagon. Heavy duty and best bang for your buck. Perfect fit. No issues at all. Took me 40 min each side. Can’t speak to longevity yet but in terms of physical quality and installation. It was great. 👍🏼

I use to think TRQ was a great aftermarket part, really love their videos and still have faith in them but only for certain parts. Shocks struts, brakes great, CV axel, nope garbage or just very bad quality control....not sure. But my driver CV shaft lasted a total of 500 miles after replacing it with this TRQ one. The passenger side is good still but after the driverside failure, I don't trust it and decided to just replace both sides to a more reputable brand so I don't have do the work all over again later on. If you're reading this, just avoid their CV axels, oh and their sway bar links, those are garbage too. Saying all that, I wouldn't say TRQ is a bad company (at least not yet, have to still try to deal with getting a refund on faulty parts that have already been installed) just that maybe they might be only good for the basics, brakes and suspension parts, not anything else!

Well packaged. Perfect fit. Easy install took about 15 minutes. Make it easy 1, turn the steering wheel right before jacking up the car. Make it easy 2, the axle nut is 36mm get a chrome 6 point socket. The impact socket won't fit into the hub. The rental tool sockets don't fit. I bought an impact socket and learned so I ran my grinder around the bottom inch or so you won't need to remove much maybe 2mm worked fine. Make it easy 3, check the axle nut there are 2 types the thin collared one that gets bent with a punch needs a torque wrench that goes to 244ftlbs. The other nut torques to 37ftlbs first pass then another 60° second pass. Make it easy 4, crawl under and look at the spot where the axle enters the transmission so you know what a fully seated axle looks like then put a tray under it in cast some fluid leaks out Un clip the brake and ABS lines. Remove the 2 bolts in the bottom of the strut. The bolt is knurled so put the socket on the nut. Back the nut off to the end of the bolt to protect the threads and tap the bolt out the other side. Push the axle through and swing the knuckle assembly to the side and hang it with a wire to protect the hose and ABS. Pop the axle out with a pry bar "NOT LEVERAGED AGAINST THE TRANSMISSION HOUSING" pull the axle out and slide the new one in. Face the split ring gap on transmission side with the gap up. Give it a tap with a rubber mallet or a hammer and a block of wood. Look underneath to be sure it's seated. Put everything back where you found it. Lower strut bolts torque to 82ftlbs. Lug nuts with factory wheels 100ftlbs. Have fun