Genuine E3D V6 Heat Break (1.75mm) (V6-175-BREAK)

What can I say - it just works, and it completely eliminates the break as a variable when troubleshooting. There are far cheaper options out there. Heck, some of them might actually be good. But I've tried a bunch and lost so much time testing. The thing about heat breaks is that you won't know if there's a problem in the system until several hours into the print - and even then... are you sure it's the heat break? It could just as well be the cooling fan. Or maybe your cheap V6 knockoff simply has some manufacturing variances. And when there *is* a jam in the cold end, it's a bear to get out; you have to heat up the hot end, let the heat soak into the heatsink without the cooling fan on, and then just wait until the filament softens just enough to pull it out. But not too much! Then you'll only pull part of the jam out. In short... whatever money you think you'll save by going for a cheaper option, you'll likely lose in time troubleshooting it - or even returning it and having to buy another one. I've been there - the first ones I bought were cheap ones (2 for $8 what a deal!). But two days later, I coughed up the cash for an e3d.

I messed around with the cheap import products. I found that the tolerances where just too far off. Especially in thread quality. I am a machinist and I believe a good judge of this. The other issue with the imports are the material is a really soft magnesium or other alloy. They may be cast.Now, the genuine ones are true machined products that have the tooling marks that they were indeed turned on a lathe. They are quality aluminum. The thread tolerance has little to no play. The play was critical to me because the more stiff they are the higher quality in the prints.I would stress with these that you must ensure you use these with the genuine heat sinks. If you don't, you end up with a ton of slop in the imported heat sinks.IMO, the argument is over. If you want quality get the genuine ones. Yes if you want half way ish, then the imports are okay, but you just wont reach the same quality.My only concern is I think these products cost too much for what they are. They could outsource some machine shops in the USA for less money. That or get their own HAAS or the like lathe with a power feed to crank these out.

I purchased and used this heat break twice - once when I broke the original heat break in a Prusa MK2.5S when trying to tighten a leaking nozzle, purchased this one as a replacement and it works perfectly.The other time was when I got a Chinese FYSETC Prusa MK3S clone. That clone made me suffer quite a bit (quality issues, loose part tolerances) - including, in particular, its hotend not being all-metal, like original Prusa MK3S. So I purchased this heat break as drop-in replacement for the non-all-metal heat break that came with the clone. That makes the hotend all-metal - for printing materials that require higher, upper-200th temperatures like Nylon and ASA. The purchased heat break works well.So I do recommend this heat break for genuine E3D V6 hotends as well as their knockoff clones.

Don’t waste times with knockoffs for your heatbreak and nozzle! This will save you time and effort getting your printer dialed in.

I bought this heat break to upgrade a knockoff V6. When it came in I examined both this heat break and the knockoff and immediately noticed a considerable difference. This heat break has a mirror finish inside while the knockoff looked quite rough.With the knockoff I had to reduce retraction to 2mm, causing excess oozing, to prevent jamming. I was able to go back to the Cura default of 6.5mm with this genuine heat break on a small print that completed with no issues. In both cases I had used Hatchbox PLA filament.

Works on and genuine e3d copper block. Smooth bore, and clean threads.

Definitely did it did not receive what was pictured on the listing

Fixed all my issues.I've heard some knockoffs are ok. OEM is a safer bet.