2 Pieces AC Current Voltage Amperage Power Energy Panel Meter LCD Digital Display Ammeter Voltmeter Multimeter with Split Core Current Transformer CT AC 80-260V 100A Multi-Function Power Monitor

The media could not be loaded. The current most helpful review says "Made in USA" when clearly these meters are not, these meters are made in China. Also, they do not HAVE to run off of 120Vac, they will run off 80-260V. With those corrections out of the way, these meters work well.This meter helped me identify a serious problem with a 5-ton Trane heatpump unit. And no, it's not hard to stop a Trane, all you need is a faulty low pressure sensor switch and it will not only stop but also start running backwards in mere milliseconds.Be advised these meters alarm on Power only. I knew what they did when I bought them, I only wish they had a version that could be set to alarm on voltage or current or all three via independent settings. It would be nice if there was an audible alarm of some sort. I also wish they had a mounting box or panel with an appropriate cutout. (product improvement suggestions) Line voltage varies and so therefore current draw will also vary and therefore Power varies (voltage times current).In my scenario I have a 5-ton Trane heatpump unit whose compressor liked to run backwards. If your heatpump sounds louder than normal or hits like a sledge hammer while running, it's running backwards.Contrary to popular belief, running backwards did not harm the motor nor the scroll compressor that the motor drives (this unit is 11 years old). However, it does eat a lot of energy for no gain. This needleslly increases the electric bill considerably. It is also interesting that when running backwards, the compressor (I put the meter in the heatpump on the leads running into the compressor) draws more current and therefore has more power consumption. When running correctly, this compressor draws 16.6 Amps at 234.9V as measured. When running backwards it draws 21.9 Amps at 235.7V as measured. That is a 32.5% increase in current and therefore power for no gain (ie no heating or cooling inside the house = total wasted energy). Once I knew that, then I needed a permanent means with alarm and real time display inside the house. That's where these meters saved the day.It is also interesting to note that the impulse from forward to reverse draws a very short (milliseconds) 100 Amp spike. I was curious, so I recorded this with a data logger that I also got here from Amazon, namely the Supco LCV LOGiT Current and Voltage Data Logger (1s minimum data interval was sufficient to catch it twice out of 4 times), and I saw it instantly on an oscilloscope also bought here on Amazon, namely the Owon SSO8192.These power meters are great to give a real time, portable and inexpensive current, voltage and power reading but are not usefull for capturing fast spikes like the more expensive equipment.What was causing this reversal was a defective low pressure switch on the unit. This switch would let the 24V contactor coil voltage drop intermittantly, and for less than a millisecond. The resulting sound has a BANG loud enough to shake the 4,000 sqft house (through the vent system) followed immediately by a louder running compressor as it starts running backwards (like it was digging deeper). From forward to reverse in milliseconds with a 100A spike. BANG! By shorting the leads running to the low pressure switch, the unit now runs as normal, no idea what this has done to longevity. My theory as to why this Trane 5-ton scroll heatpump compressor draws more amps in reverse, is because the compressor must have an internal anti-backflow valve or device of some kind.With this meter I was able to temporarily monitor directly inside the outdoor unit and I can now permanently monitor the current draw from inside the house by connecting this meter to the breaker box lines running to the heatpump outside. I also have the alarm set to 5.3kW (240V times 22 Amps). The fans draw 4.7 Amps. 16.6+4.7=21.3A running correctly. In reverse that would be 22+4.7=26.7A. This way, I will have an exact alert if the heatpump ever tries to reverse again. No need for hearing accuity of the compressor. Note I wired this inside the breaker box, directly across the breaker feeding the heatpump unit with the current sense transformer on one of the wires.The permanent fix for the heatpump was to replace the low pressure switch (simply put a new one in line and abandoned the old). We also replaced the contactor as the contacts were severly damaged. I had the start capacitor and hard start unit replaced for piece of mind.I will leave this meter in place as I do not know if this same failure or another such as the high pressure switch will fail again in the future. I appreciate the peace of mind this meter with flashing screen alarm provides.Note, you can turn the LCD off by pressing the button and yes, on alarm it will still flash. It holds the LCD backlight setting (on or off) through a power outage AS WELL AS the power alarm setting. 2 minutes tested. It may hold these settings longer, I don't know. But for my purposes, that is more than long enough for the guardian 22kw to kick on and the transfer switch to automatically kick in during a power outage. For my purposes I don't care, but I also noted it did hold the kWh accumulation for two minutes as well.The leads on the CT transformers are relatively short (about 4-6 inches), I soldered on an additional 2 ft of tined multistrand 20 AWG silicone insulated (600V) wire to them. Solder station (Andolar 60W), solder (60/40 rosin core) and wire (Haerkn) were also bought right here on Amazon. I used electrical tape (3M Super 88) bought right here on Amazon to insulate the joints, you can use heat shrink tubing for a more professional look.At $15.30 apiece if you buy two, this is a very inexpensive troublshooting and monitoring tool.I hope this helps someone.

Product works as advertised.Installed it to monitor the power consumption of my 2024 Volvo XC60 recharge.Not difficult to install, the plastic case and the split CT is not robust but if you treat it gently, not a problem.I mounted it to the wall next to the 240 volt outlet using velcro tape since the unit is light plastic.The display is very bright, no problems reading it offering you important information.As for the split CT, it should clip fine to the wire. To make sure it wouldn't accidentally open, I used a plastic wire tie.The split CT wires were not long enough for my application but I extended it an additional three feet using a cheap extension chord wire with no problems. I crimped the splice but you can also solder them for a mechanically secure connection.The manual is a little confusing but if you follow the schematic you can easily figure it out.Just remember that for the unit to the unit to do its thing, it must be supplied with whatever voltage you're trying to measure. In my case it was 240 volts. Make sure you properly isolate the wires to avoid getting zapped.My take; it's plenty of bang for the buck and very useful if you want to know how much is costing you in energy to run your appliances.

I purchased these to monitor power quality and usage (amps) in our travel trailer camper.Often we need to know fairly accurately how many amps we are pulling so we can avoid tripping breakers at places we’re visiting. And/or so we can calculate battery runtime estimates.The install was fairly easy, although directions led to some needing to do some guessing. The split CT ring saved us from needing to unwire and rewire existing connections.Although I haven’t checked the calibrated accuracy of the meter readings, they all seem reasonable, based on comparing them to other meters and anticipated values.The downsides are:1) There isn’t a 200A CT available. This results in this product not being usable for main electrical service panels.2) The screen doesn’t mount easily - it has some clips on the side, so we could custom cutout a project box to mount it, but having a ready made box option would be great.3) The screen needs to be powered by a 120v source, which is understandable, but instead of hard wiring it and needing it to be (ideally) behind a breaker, having a plugin AC adapter as an option would also be helpful.4) The wiring connects to the screen via several screw terminals. This includes the 120v wiring. To reduce risk of contacting the wiring, ideally this would be within a case (which isn’t readily available from the company/needs to be custom by the installer). Wrapping with electrical tape is a quick hack, but not ideal. There also isn’t a bezel on the screen edge which makes it more intricate work to mount it with good aesthetics.

Works very well in my RV. It's nice to know the AC power consumption all the time. Also, it's easy to turn off the back light at night.

Works great. I cut a hole in a double-gang blank wall plate (single gang is too small) and connected it to my EV charger outlet. It gives me a way to measure how much of my household electricity goes to my car.

I received these meters in 3 days. The display is a compact size but easy to to read. They have a bright blue display which can be turned off if wanted. They show all the information I needed to monitor the input to a 30 amp service. The snap connectors make it easy to install around the wires. Hooked the power wires up and it was ready to use. Being able to reset the amp hours is a great feature to track the KwHrs per day and can be reset the next day. It was a great value for the money and I would recommend this product for anyone wanting to track power usage.