Pipe Repair clamp,Leak Sealer,Emergency Pipe Repair Kit for Plastic and Metal Pipes (20mm-23mm/1/2 inch)

Used it to repair community water line. It was leaking in the welded joint. Pipe was odd ball size n nothing else would fit. It's still holding great !

Came when promised and worked perfectly.

The Allen wrench screw tip stripped out on the second turn, but a pair of vice grips allowed me to tighten it up enough to stop the leak.

While the size in inches and mm did not match, it was clear from the description that the mm was correct. When I got it that turned out to be true. However, the extremely sturdy looking device totally failed to stop the leak. I finally gave up and asked my plumber to do it, and for $200 (he worked on it a while) he attached a piece of rubber and a hose clamp, very simple, and said he has seen these work for many years.

Perfect water seal

I needed to do a temporary repair of a pinhole leak on a nominal 1" copper pipe used in a home heating boiler system. I was able to get this installed, but it was not easy. It was difficult to get the closing bolts aligned so I could close the clamp, but I manged to do it. I also cleaned the pipe and put grease on the rubber sleeve. So far, the drip has stopped. As a number of reviews indicate, if you are not careful, you can end up with a clamp that is too big and will not close tightly on the pipe. Look carefully at the chart on the webpage. Nominal 1" OD copper pipe has an actual OD of 1-1/8" (28.575mm). I needed the #27 LD20 clamp, which is 27mm nominal and usable for a range of 26-29mm OD.Overall, the quality of this clamp is so-so. My boiler operates at no more than 30 psi. Not sure if this would work for pressures at 50psi or more. I would never use this as a permanent repair or underground or somewhere where it is hard to access. If you have to tear into a wall, you should not reseal the wall until the repair is permanent.

I haved used 2 of these and they have worked perfectly.

I'm an electrician on the beach, and I used this coupling to replace a broken overhead PVC riser. Had I fixed this the traditional way, technically it probably would have made me quite a bit more money, but I would've had to deal with city permits, and the power company. With this, I was able to slap a couple of straps on it, cinch this sucker down, and it worked great. The stainless part is particularly important to me, being on the coast. It's got its own challenges, but it's easier than disconnecting everything and rerunning wires.