YF2009 120 Inch Projector Screen Outdoor, HD 16:9 Large Foldable Portable Movie Screen for Indoor Home Theater/Office Presentation/Camping. Easy to Hang on Mount/Wall, Support Double Sided Projection

I only gave 3 stars for portability because this is like a tent. Once it's out of the bag, good luck putting it back in LOL. The screen itself is beautiful, wrinkles free and easy to use.

Here's how you set this sucker up to wow your mom and impress your friends:FIRST:Prep the wall. SUPER IMPORTANT for picture clarity. If that means a coat of white paint, do it. If there are outlets on the wall to cover up, shut off the power at the breaker (or not, if you're brave/dumb and have someone filming it) take the plate and outlet out of the wall and cover the junction box with paper the same shade of white as the wall - hardware store paint swatches work great for this. Clear packing tape to attach it works fine.NEXT:Mount your projector and sight it in (so to speak) on the prepped wall. Once setup, sized, leveled and focused, take a pencil and lightly trace the perimeter of the projected light right on the wall. Use a yard stick or something of the like to get it nice and straight, or just freehand it if you're artistic. Once that's done, shut off the projector and whip this screen out - either wash your hands or wear nitrile gloves beforehand so you don't soil it. It's big and you don't want it on the floor either, so place it in a clean laundry basket under where you intend to mount it. Get a ladder, a hammer and some small nails. Mount the eyelets of the screen to the wall with the nails positioned so that the black fabric of the nylon perimeter of the screen is about two inches or so away from the outside of your penciled projector boarder you drew, which should be just visible enough through the sheer fabric of the screen. Note: the screen, at 150 inches, will be stretched out quite a bit as you mount it.Once finished, you'll notice that the screen's border between the eyelets won't be a straight line. They'll be stretched and draped down into your penciled projector border, looking a lot like waves of water you drew with a blue crayon as a kid. To fix this, get flat thumb tacks and pull those crooked, dipped-in boarders away from the pencil projector border and thumbtack the black screen border to the wall so that you still have that two inches of clearance between your pencil border and the black nylon boarder of the screen. Use several thumbtacks between each eyelet and make that black nylon boarder look as straight as possible.Done? Sure, if you want, but why not make it look like Joanna Gaines was responsible for this job?Building a frame:Go to the hardware store and buy four 12 foot 1x4 planks. Get the nice straight stuff and get ones with a lot of knots, swirls and pock-marked, subtle Swiss-cheese looking holes. Make sure to inspect the straightness of each plank by holding an end of the plank up to your eye and look down it's side edge like you're aiming a rifle. Toss the crooked planks. Find the best four planks that you can. Then go to the paint department and grab a cheap brush and a can of wood stain of a color and tint of your choice. Before leaving the store, drop by the hardware section and get a box of larger nails. Screws work great too, I just think nails give it something more of an artistic quality to look at.Once back home, because doing this in the store parking lot would be odd, stain all four planks to your liking in a vented space like your open garage, unless you want to cop a headache off of the fumes and see things that really aren't there.Bring the (dry) planks to your project space. Lay out what will be the top plank. Pre-drill a few holes (3 to 5 of them, all measured and spaced apart to look like you gave a crap about it looking good). Drill them where you want your nails to be in the plank to attach them to the wall - the drill holes should be just slightly smaller than the diameter of the nails - no need to exactly measure the nail diameter, just eyeball it. Then stick the tips of the nails into those pre-drilled holes. Just the tips. Giggity. Mount the top piece of stained wood, all 12 feet of it, above the screen overlapping the black screen boarder. The plank should cover up the nylon boarder with all of the nails, eyelets and thumbtacks. Mind you, the edge of the wood shouldn't be touching the pencil boarder, just a bit away from it so your projector light has some wiggle room. Mount the plank so that the black nylon boarder is just out of sight and covered by the plank.Note: for this 150 inch screen, the top and bottom planks need to be the full 12 feet of wood. The sides will be shorter and will need to be measured and cut. Skillsaw, Sawzall, table saw, etc will all work. If you take proper measurements you can take the two planks back to the hardware store where they can cut them for you free of charge (ex. Home Depot, Lowe's). Make sure to measure both sides independently of each other in case they aren't equal lengths.For mounting, have someone else help you with holding the plank in position. Drive the center nail first, then go to one side and align the spacing between the wood and the pencil line to be the same as the spacing at the middle. Pound that nail. Then on the other side, do the same thing there. Now, no wood is perfectly straight. Also Giggity. If it is slightly culled (crooked or warped), you'll need to bend the plank up or down a bit into place before driving that nail.Next, measure each side from the bottom edge of the mounted top rail down to where you want the top edge of the bottom rail to be. Cut two of your stained planks to those lengths, then attach them to the wall vertically on each side of the screen with the same spacing and manner as the top rail. The bottom rail should align right up with the bottom ends of the side planks, provided you measured them correctly.Align and attach the bottom rail to the wall. Now Instagram that shiz, you are done and it looks awesome! I'm typing this at work (paid by the hour downtime - it's the little things in life, right?) so I'll hafta add pictures of mine later so you can see how proud my own Mrs. Gaines is of me.Holy crap, I just proof-read this thing and clearly I got carried away, it's massive!

I made a PVC Frame and stretched this to fit it. The material is nice and makes a nice image. I would suggest ironing it before. It says its washable so maybe do that and throw it in the dryer. It comes with some very obvious creases. They will need to be fixed before watching anything. But after that, the screen is nice and does a nice job.

Good quality picture, easy to deploy, included carry bag a bonus!

This has a beautiful silky look. We used bedsheet corner 23” long straps with clasps to hold it on the top inside of the garage and clasped the top of the screen in 4 places and then clasped the other end to a metal bar. We used the black string it came with to run its through the top and sides equally from down the center top equally down to the sides and then loop thru garage bar so that it would get some pull down from sides and through the bottom holes to tie back up to make it taught. Use some aliens tape outside behind the sides...in just key spots to make it taught. Even though we didnt make it completely taught..you cannot see the waves/wrinkles during projection so we didn’t bother adding more alien tape. Mind you..if you use Alien tape it can remove the paint off your house exterior or garage door..so use a tiny bit of it.We could open and close the garage all Halloween week while we screened a promo a few nights before Halloween...the projector looked bright enough on it..surprisingly excellent quality from our projector..this screen is perfect and HUGE for a very wide garage door. We setup outdoor furniture sectional sofa and table out front. We put a large red carpet up the side of the driveway with some chrome stands and red rope. It WAS AWESOME!!!