Tormek MSK-250 Stainless Steel Main Shaft and E-Z Lock Upgrade Kit (for T-7, Super Grind 2000 and All 10-Inch Tormek Grinding Systems)

habe den Originalen meiner 2000er gegen diesen ersetzt, ich hätte das schon früher machen sollen. Endlich Werkzeug loser Wechsel und die Schraube dreht sich im Gegensatz zum "Originalen" nicht mehr beim Start von selbst auf. Super

Tormek describes the new shat as having two holes in it, to fit different machines. The unit I got has only one hole. The directions for installation mentioned two holes. Did I get a new, or old shaft?Furthermore, the directions state to lubricate the shaft with bearing grease. For $125 they don’t include a very tube of bearing grease. How many woodworkers keep bearing grease in their shop?I find it to be frustratingly disappointing to pay $125 for an upgrade shaft and not have the grease to use the machine. 50 cents or $1 to produce a small tube…. Tormek please rethink this oversight.

Item is nicely made but I do feel like I shouldn’t have to pay full price as long as I could return the original rusted one that this replaced. If I was running things over in Tormek town I probably would have brought up the fact that metal and water don’t get along so well. Then I would have shown pictures of rusty things to the designers and asked them if they had ever heard of that happening before. There should be a credit of 50% if you (me) return the original rusty one. They could give them all to the guy who suggested the original design for use on a sharpening system that uses water for their retirement gift.

This new Main Drive Shaft was very easy to install on my old T-7. So if you’re wondering if it will fit on your old T-7? Yes it will. Its kind of unfair for me to say Easy, because I make a living Repairing things and sharpening things, it really only took me about 5 minutes total time. But it should take no more than 30 minutes for the un experienced.Before you start 2 things you should definitely have on the ready. A small amount of axle/ bearing grease, and a small round file, (like a small chain saw blade file) you may or may not need the file but have it ready just in case. I used a dremel myself. This is to notch the housing for the new bushings. Much easier to do than it sounds. Have fun. Hope this helps.

I bought my Tormek in about 2004, when the drive shaft was nickel-plated steel. Over the last couple years, the plating started to "bubble" rust, as has the nut and washer that hold the grindstone.Current model Tormeks have been improved with a stainless steel shaft, eliminating the rust problem. In addition, the outside steel washer and right-hand threaded nut that secured the grindstone have been replaced with a large left-hand thread stainless nut which "self-tightens" from the torque of the wheel itself. That makes removing / re-installing the stone a whole lot easier on the new machines.Thankfully, Tormek continues to make almost every improvement on their new machines "backward compatible" with older models, allowing incorporation of design improvements without buying a whole new machine. The MSK-250 kit allows retrofitting older 10" Tormek machines with the stainless shaft and self-tightening stainless nut.The kit contains everything needed to replace the old steel parts with stainless parts, and also includes a new set of shaft bushings. The entire installation took about 10 minutes! Simply remove the grindstone, honing wheel, and drive wheel (a total of 3 nuts) and the old shaft slips right out. Pop out the old bushings and pop in the new ones, put a little grease on the shaft, and put it all back together again. (Note: On some very old machines, the bushings were glued in and are missing a "slot" needed for the new bearings. These machines will require perhaps another 10 minutes to remove the old bushings and file a small "slot" needed by the new bushings. I don't know when the design changed, but my circa-2004 machine already had the newer-style bushings.)I highly recommend this upgrade if you have the older plated-steel shaft. Eventually it WILL begin to rust, and if left to do so, the rust inside the hub of the grindstone will make removal from the shaft very difficult -- in fact, it might cause the stone to split.The left-hand thread self-tightening nut also works as advertised. Not really a big deal if you only have one grindstone and leave it on the machine. However, if you have one of the optional stones (the blackstone or Japanese waterstone) and frequently swap them, the new nut will let you do so without grabbing a wrench.