Z-Wave Smart Light Dimmer with QuickFit & SimpleWire, 3-Way Ready, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, White Paddle, 4-Pack, Smart Switch, 54898

Perfect pairing with SmartThings. Turn off the blue indicator light (blue LED) on the switch by pressing the up (on) 3x fast, then down (off) once. This has to be done quickly, but will turn off the blue LED. Do the same thing to turn it back on. I found this a must for the bedroom switches as the LED is way too bright, but is perfect for other areas of the house to find the switches at night. Pair the switches up with motion sensors in each room and automate your lighting. Set up multiple scenes / automations for different brightness levels based on ambient light or time, or disable them from coming on automatically when in a certain mode (bedtime). I had installed motion lighting in another house of mine, but this is taking it to another level that just makes more sense. All lights and fans turn off when we leave and set the alarm, then select few turn back on when we arrive. It's so nice to not have to use switches throughout the house anymore as our lights and fans are automatically controlled for us, and turn off on their own based on certain timers, different for each area and its purpose. These switches are very responsive and I am very happy that they have the dim on and dim off feature as it just gives your lighting automation a much warmer and welcoming feel. Paired with some dumb (but smart) Phillips dimmable "Warm Glow Effect" bulbs and you can control the temperature (white vs warm white) with a bit more variation depending on the time of day / night. A much cheaper alternative than buying smart bulbs to let you control the temperature. Setting up the 3 way was quick and easy. The 4 way was a bit more difficult but that's because of how my electrician had the original switches wired up, which I eventually ohmed out and figured out what was going on. If you need to do a 4 way (3 switches for a light) or more, and you're not an electrician or handy with this sort of thing, consider calling somebody over that can figure it out for you as it took me hours to figure out how it was wired up and configure these properly.

I wanted to update and upgrade my alarm system and home automation. Found these and they are much more reasonable in price then what the alarm companies are selling or recommending. My only grip was when you have to do a 3-way set up, you still need 2 switches to do it. Some other manufacturers allow you to use a standard paddle switch and just have one z-wave switch. Not a big deal, but a way of giving the consumer more bang for the buck. I ended up replacing 14 switches throughout the house. The Qyolsys Panel 4 learned all of them without a hiccup! Everything is working flawlessly through the app and manually. I like that the blue light can be programmed to be on when the switch is not in use and works as a night indicator at the same time. They look great, even when located next to a standard paddle switch. If you are comfortable installing or changing out an electrical switch, you'll find these a breeze. One thing that stood out is the double inlets for each wire. It really makes it easy when doing multiple switches next to one another. You can bring the wire into the first inlet and use the second one as an outlet to feed the switch next to it. I would recommend these to anyone wanting to get into home automation! Hope to see some z-wave wall outlets in the future as well!

This switch is the latest branding of one of the most common Z-Wave light switches made. Over the last 5 years, it's been sold under the Jasco, Enbrighten, UltraPro, GE, and Honeywell brands. I've replaced most of the main light switches in my house with these Z-Wave switches, and this is very similar to all of them. Installation was pretty straightforward. It does require a neutral wire, but the wire is included and only added a couple extra minutes to the installation. Adding it to my Z-Wave network was straightforward, and Home Assistant had no problems recognizing them. Note that these are dimmers, and will fade the light on and off instead of switching it directly from 0 to 100%. I expect these to be fairly reliable as the other brands of the same switch. Of the 20-ish that I've installed over the last 5 years, I've only had 1 fail and have to be replaced. I would recommend this switch for anyone using Z-Wave.

Bought this to control the 4-bulb light on a ceiling fan. I specifically wanted a Z-Wave or Zigbee switch and not a stand-alone Wi-Fi switch as I already have over 30 devices active on my Wi-Fi network (with at least 10 more offline and always growing) and wanted to keep as many smart home devices on a separate network as possible. I do have a Philips Hue Hub but had to purchase another Z-Wave compatible hub (Samsung SmartThings) as the Hue only uses a limited, proprietary version of Zigbee (no Z-Wave at all.) The SmartThings hub was already something I wanted and will give me more options for the future. If you're serious at all about home automation, stay away from "no hub required" devices, you'll thank me later. This replaced two Philips Hue bulbs which required the wall switch to always be set to "on" (which never happened in the kids' room), required an additional remote switch to use dimming capabilities without a voice assistant, and limited the amount of light (4 bulbs would have been prohibitively expensive and needlessly complicated the Philips Hue wireless network), not to mention the confusion for visiting guests. Again, the initial purchase of the SmartThings hub added to the cost but will be spread out over the cost of multiple devices and adds new levels of integration and automation with other systems. The Hue bulbs still have their place (particularly in lamps and places you want to adjust color or warmth) but for wired bedroom fixtures this is a more elegant solution. Installation was not too difficult. On the first attempt I discovered the wall box had all the required connections but the old switch itself was only wired to hot, so I had to put it back together until I could stop by the store for Romex for the neutral and ground wires. The Honeywell switch will operate in "dumb" mode (on/off) with only hot connections but requires the others for the computer-y stuff that lets it talk to the hub base station. Once I had the wires everything was a snap and it connected to the SmartThings hub without any issues. I didn't even need any other apps besides SmartThings, though I may soon investigate any proprietary apps to make sure I have the latest update for the switch. Dimmer function is very touchy and not easy to use when trying to use the toggle switch. Maybe it's just the particular choice of bulbs (EcoSmart dimmable LED 60-watt equivalent 4-pack, $10 from a local home improvement store) but you have to hold it for a second before it starts dimming or brightening and then it changes so fast that you have no control. I usually just give up and use a voice assistant to set the desired brightness precisely. Anything below 15% isn't even visible, 20% is a good "dim" setting, 50% is a good average setting and 100% is very bright. This is a good value choice for lower-traffic rooms but I would probably do more research and try to find a better switch for, say, a living room which will have a lot of guests. The small blue LED indicator that helps you find the switch in the dark is a nice feature functionally and not too intrusive, but the design could have been better. In particular I like the TP-Link Kasa 3-way switch that has a small white ring that glows through the switch itself and is very stylish, but that switch is Wi-Fi and I wanted Z-Wave or Zigbee. Pro: - relatively inexpensive (after initial hub investment) - easy installation (no more difficult than any other wall switch) - better choice than smart bulbs for permanent fixtures - LED helps you find the switch in the dark Con: - may require additional Z-Wave compatible hub purchase - no adjustment for color or warmth - finicky dimmer - LED indicator may bother some - older homes may not have neutral or ground connections to the box, requiring a professional electrician

Well made product and easy to wire up and mount. Connected this device into an existing SmartThings hub. No issues with SmartThings control integration. I can set desired light levels through the SmartThings user interface. Had problems operating the dimmer switch locally. With the default configuration, and a long press on the dimmer paddle, the lights dim so fast that it is impossible to resolve the desired light level. Contacted Jasco support and asked how to adjust the local paddle switch rate of dimming. They referred me to a spec sheet which is poorly written. This is a better description Parameter 9: Dim levels per step (When Manually Controlled) (3 = Default) range 1 to 99 Parameter 10: Dim step interval Parameter * 10 ms (When Manually Controlled) (1=Default) range 1 to 255 Asked Jasco support how to change parameters 9 & 10 through SmartThing hub. They instructed me to: Change the device type to Z-Wave Tweaker Set the values of parameter 9 & 10 Change back to device type = Dimmer Switch. Notes: 1) Setting Par9=1 and Par10=5 worked for me. 2) Changing to device type = "Z-Wave Dimmer Switch Generic" will override the parameters you just set in Tweaker.

I purchased two of these Z-Wave switches in July 2024 when my old switch suddenly started to flicker the lights and couldn't be turned on to full power or turned off, either manually or through my Z-Wave controller. This switch worked fine until September 2024 when it failed in the same way as the old switch. The difference is that the old switch was 9 years old before it failed. There are also two other similar switches in the same box on the same circuit controlling different lights. They are also old and work perfectly, so it's not a problem with the circuit or the box. I replaced the switch with the second one that I bought as a spare in July. We'll have to see how long this one lasts.

I have used this brand/model of switches a few times in my house and have had great luck. Once installed it’s fairly easy to pair. Just start inclusion mode and tap up or down. If you don’t see the switch being included. Then start exclusion mode and tap the up or down once. The try again. Setup is easy if you have a neutral wire already (you’ll typically see a bundle of white wires in the dumb switch box that don’t connect to anything). This switch is the main switch if you are doing a 3-way etc. you’ll need the dimmer add-on switch to do that setup. Be sure it says Add-On or auxiliary. I only tried with this same brand and it worked. You may have luck with the GE Enbrighten as I think that they are both made by Jasco. Special note about LED compatibility and these smart switches: You need X amount of watts on your circuit. I think it’s 25W-35W? So not all LEDs will work well with this setup because there’s not enough power. Second, LED dimming is different than incandescent dimming. It’s due to the electronic component differences. So not all LED designs are compatible with this switch. I think I did see on another review that this is a TRIAC dimmer. You’ll see a flicker at all ranges of dimming if this is your issue. If you see a flicker only near the max or min of dimming, you can adjust the switch’s max and min to not reach the flicker stage. Between those two issues, I was unable to use this model pairing on my retrofit Halo lights 4-in 60-Watt Equivalent White Round Dimmable Recessed Downlight (RA404930WHR). I will need to use them elsewhere in the house since I bought then so long ago. For those lights I bought Inovelli’s dimmer switch and it works well. However, The Honeywell add-on dimmer switch did not work for me with my Inovelli dimmer with my LED setup.

This was one of the easiest switches to install. It came with a short piece of wire to connect to the neutral bunch, and had either side screw or back terminal connectors for the two hot and neutral wire. The back terminal connectors are tightened by the side screw, instead of being spring loaded, which I was very happy about. I tested the switch using incandescent bulbs, GE Basics LED bulbs, and Philips WarmGlow bulbs. The WarmGlow and Incandescent were excellent. The GE Basics were OK, but very non-linear, and cut out around 10%. It paired perfectly with SmartThings, IFTTT, and I have full control using my Google Assistant.