Bowden Extruder V2.0 DDB Universal Geared Extruder Dual Drive Extruder for 3D Printer

So I bought this to replace the extruder on my Anycubic Mega X since the one it came with decided to fall apart (I’m using a bowden extruder system). How did I install it? I ended up putting it on so the words AREN’T upside down like you may have seen some people do on youtube when installing (installing it with the words upside down makes it feed backwards, logically).For the process I went through I had to do some searching, so now I’m typing my process out below so people don’t need to search.At first it worked great, then it started slipping, did some research, needed to adjust e-steps (that’s the number of times the motor turns the gear in the extruder to feed the filament into the hotend). I happened to already have Simplify3D so I plugged the printer into my PC, started Simplify3D, went to Tools > Machine Control Panel, set the port to COM3, unchecked Verbose, go to Communications tab and click Connect (it worked one day and didn’t the day before, Idk). After that I follow Thomas Salanderer’s E-step calibration video and ended up with a new E-Step number of ~377mm/s (from the manufacturer the Mega X is apparently set to 400mm/s which is… impressive(?) for a non-dual drive extruder from what I’ve read) once I had the number to input I typed in the code for the new steps (M92E377 for me) then put in command M500. It should save the settings, but just in case send code M501 (this will call up the data you saw when you first connected BUT with your new E-Step value). Restart your printer, reconnect to your computer and double check that the value remained the same. Then do a test print, and you SHOULD be good.Happy Printing!

Seems to be a quality product for the price. There was a lot of play with the gear attached to the arm, and I've seen videos where people use a really small piece of bowden tube to make a little washer. So I was prepared to do that when I assembled mine but there was what I thought would be a better fix for it (maybe). The kit comes with a flat white washer that is supposed to go under the arm spring. I simply used that instead to remove the play in the gear and it fit perfectly. I guess I might print a washer down the line if the spring needs it, but everything seems to be working great with this set up.

This extruder is meant for multiple brands of printers and models, but I had hoped given that the product description made special note of the the Ender 3 that it would work without modification on an Ender 3 V2. However, I had to modify the stock extruder mount by enlarging two of the mounting holes to shift the motor over a few millimeters on the mount. This allowed the exposed white gear on the extruder to clear the Z Axis screw.I've got a about 20 hours on the extruder now and It is a significant upgrade over the the stock extruder. I've no issues with feeding, noise or gear problems. No lubrication is provided with the kit and I'm using a small amount of lithium grease with no issues. Once you get the extruder set up I can definitely recommend it.The other issue you will contend with on Ender 3 V2 is changing the E-Steps. Creality used a new screen on the V2 and as a result the firmware isn't as easy to work with as the older Ender 3s. For my printer an E-Step value of 425 worked perfectly. (Start at 415 and measure how much is extruded.) However, you can only adjust the E-Steps directly on the printer up to 186.Your options are:1. Use the terminal and adjust the E-Steps and save the values to the printer. In this case the current Crealty firmware saves settings to the SD card. If you remove the SD card you will lose your saved settings. This is what I do. I use OctoPrint and have and an SD card installed just to save the printer settings.2. Add your E-Steps value to your G-Code for everything you print. For example, add it in your slicer to append it to all your prints.3. Use a third party firmware or compile your own firmware.

I bought one to do a direct drive conversion on my CR-6 SE and liked it so much I bought two more and replaced the extruders on my two bowden setups (a CR-10 and Ender 3 V2). Seems very well made. The only thing I did to these units was place a very thin M3 washer on the shaft of the gear on the swinging arm (the one the spring pushes against) to keep it at the right alignment with the other gear that grips the filament. I am not sure why there was so much play in the first place, but easily fixed. If you have a 3D printer you've probably got a lot of stupid little washers rolling around your workspace anyway. ;)

I replaced a dirt cheap dual gear all metal extruder with this one and I regret it. This thing is just junk. Noisy and many limitations due to the gearing with the stock Ender 3 V2 stepper + unaligned poorly engineered parts. Can't use linear advance or pressure advance without it skipping steps and making a terrible noise. Must dial down retraction to a very small amount, too bad for you if you're on a Bowden tube setup. This thing is hot garbage. Avoid.

This Bowden Extruder V2.0 BMG is a truly great design and it works, really works. I installed it on my Flying Bear Ghost 4s fairly easily. There were several ways to do this so you have choices. I used tandem set screws to secure the drive gear and that required a slight trim from an internal plastic part, but not a problem. After that the only issue I had was changing the extrusion factor from 96 to 425 [as recommended by another review]. All problems of clogging, stepper slipping, and grinding were over. This is so strong I can now print PETG at 200% recommended speed! Get this extruder!

Great replacement for stock extruder. Beware of stringing though.

I don’t ever write reviews but this one just picked me up from the gutter. Was pulling my hair out trying to get my damn printer working right. Removed my crappy stock plastic single gear and found the lever was cracked! No wonder the underextrusion.I’m on my first print with this BMG (which is an actual TriangleLabs) and it looks pretty good without changing any settings. Fits Ender 3 v2 perfectly without any mod/bracket etc.Couple things I’ve read — i) obviously redo e-steps… should be up around 400s after; ii) load some filament through then tighten the tensioner screw in all the way. Back it off 1-2 full turns for rigid filament and 3-4 full turns for flexible; iii) might make a clicking noise at higher speed, so lower retraction speed to 20-30mm/s; iv) even if you think it’s obvious how to install and get it goin… just obsessively read a bunch of posts on the BMG. Some good tips in there ¯\_(ツ)_/¯::)

Cambio rápido para una Fsun

No es buen estrusor, es mejor el que viene de serie en la ender3