Dorman 917-143 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Filter Compatible with Select Models

The filter fit exactly as described would buy again if needed

Got this for my 2005 gmc sierra 1500 5.3 truck doesn’t take a filter per dealer. Make sure to call dealer for your oil pressure sending unit sensor and get the right part number! And order ac delco brand on amazon! Works great. I had a problem with my instrument cluster oil gauge fluctuating 0 to 80psi while idling or driving cluster was fine but it was the oil pressure sending unit videos on youtube on how to replace easy.

This was holding up reinstalling my intake, but one day delivery from Amazon made it not so bad. I had tried to remove the old one with a pick...yeah, that didn't work really well. Poked a couple holes in the metal screen. In my opinion (and eventual experience), to remove it with a screwdriver that is slightly smaller than the opening is the best way to go. As the screwdriver is tapered, it should wedge in the opening prior to bottoming out (and puncturing the screen) and with some patience and wiggling, the old one should come out. In fact, if you can pull it without damaging it, you may be able to clean it with brake cleaner...not that the part costs all that much.If you have the intake removed, its not a hard job (removing the intake was the hard job). If you don't remove the intake, its a big hassle...although it is doable (don't ask me how I know). Because of its location at the back of the engine and severely restricted space, it will take a lot of cussing and time, all while laying on top of the engine. If you are going to do it without removing the intake, I found this right angle adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-483-Degree-Gearless/dp/B000I1TA5C/ref=sr_1_15?crid=1CANEY9E0WG72&dchild=1&keywords=angle+socket+adapter&qid=1595862778&sprefix=angle+socket+a%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-15) essential to get the pressure sensor out and back in. Worth every penny.

its ok

We had a problem with our very high mileage 2007 Suburban with the 5.3L. The oil pressure gauge read at good levels until it was warmed up, then randomly would drop to zero, even though the engine sounded fine with no signs of low oil pressure. We've had this problem before and fixed these symptoms by cleaning this screen or replacing a bad sender unit, so I ordered both parts not wanting to do the job twice (search YouTube for some good videos with instructions how to do this without having to remove the intake manifold, but it is still a bit of a pain).Once I got the old sender unit out, I found a machine bolt that was the right size to thread inside the new screen, and used that bolt to easily pull the old screen out. The old one was pretty dirty and had a small tear in the screen, and the old sender unit had a crack in the plastic part, but it was not leaking. Still, probably a good idea to replace both parts.I replaced both parts and climbed out of the engine bay (Seriously GM? I can literally stand in the engine bay but you have to put this sensor in such a horrible location?).I started it up, took it for a test drive, but just as I was pulling back into my driveway it happened again. Once again no dice.I read on some forums that others had fixed this problem simply by changing their oil. The oil was very dirty and the oil change place had put in a very cheap filter, so I decided that it couldn't hurt to try that before we go dropping oil pans and replacing pick-up tube o-rings and all. So I did an oil and filter change with full-synthetic oil and a Mobile 1 filter. Since then I have run it several times, and so far no more oil pressure problems. The code scanner shows nice consistent oil pressure averaging in the mid 50psi range and the gauge shows similar.So bottom line -- try changing your oil and filter first. You probably need it anyway.

This is not easy to remove or install, but that is more because of GM's engine design rather than anything to do with the quality of the product. I studied the videos on YouTube on how to remove this from the hole. You have to use a several inch long bolt to hook the old screen and pull it out. The whole process of removing the old oil sensor and screen is done entirely by feel because the oil sensor is behind the intake against the firewall. At first I didn't think I had gotten the screen out, and I thought I had dropped it back into the hole. I couldn't fish it out again. Then I put a borescope in the hole and realized the screen wasn't there, which meant I did indeed fish it out and it had dropped onto the engine somewhere. I never found the old screen, but I did feel it on the end of the bolt before I lost it. Installing the new screen is once again by feel, but not difficult, just drop it in the hole closed end down and push with your finger. The screen keeps crud out of the sensor, so it's necessary. First photo shows the screen removed, second photo is after the new screen is installed.

Worked

Changing this is a pain because you can't see anything your doing. Make sure to buy the socket for it. YouTube how to remove the wiring clip and connector. I pulled off the 1 vent line at the back valve cover.It's a quick clip so it comes off easy. Used the special socket 3/8 drive wobble end attached directly to socket. Then used attach a 5in extension and a regular ratchet. A flex head rachet would of been nice but removing the 1 vent line made a regular rachet work. There was a also a tiny screen below the sensor. Used a 6in x 3/8 course thead lag bolt for wood to remove the screen. Screw it in like a 1/8 of a turn to the screen and it grabs it.