Lisle 64970 Parasitic Drain Tester, One Size, Factory

Great tool to have for the tool box

A commercially made harness made by Lisle that is so simple but takes the place of the home made 10 watt resister with alligator clips soldered on each end then having to put alligator clips on your test leads then hook it up with one on one side of the resister and the other on the other side, with so many connections made it would fairly easy to miss a current draw of 50 Ma, never mind what the heck is causing it. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, connecting this tester in series to the regular battery cable.This tester is fused, it has an on/off switch, and it has two pass through banana plugs that connect directly into the fused current inputs on your multimeter. This is a necessity for newer cars to detect draws that are so slight that the test light trick will not work here. All of the connections are extremely dependable and the fear of missing the problem due to a bad connection is minimized. Lisle 64970 Parasitic Drain Tester This is one diagnostic tool that I didn't have to think about, as soon as i realized what it was I put it right in my shopping cart.

This tool is an excellent piece to help locate a parasitic drain.

I works great but I would like to see Lisle start putting some of their specialty tools especially tools that do not react to being slammed around in your tool box in protective cases. Lisle makes good tools and I have several of them and they all work great.

Highly recommend this battery adaptor cord for trying to find those pesky parasitic drain problems. Has a mini fuse on both positive & negative cords.

A+

This tester does exactly what it’s supposed to do. The switch is not wired wrong. When the switch is flipped on the power goes threw just the clamp wires and not the DMM tester. Which is a must have for me because my BMW takes a while to go into sleep mode. Before sleep mode my car draw enough amps to blow my DMM tester fuse. Once my car is into sleep mode I can flip the switch into the off position which lets the current flow there my DMM tester to read the A or mA. As long as I switch it back to the On position I can even remove my DMM tester to check fuses without waking the car up. In my case I have more than one DMM tester and did not need to do so. I did have to replace the 10 amp fuse on the clamp side of the tester to a 15amp. I know the directions say to not use a fuse larger than 10 amps but I had to because my car kept blowing the 10amp mini fuse on the clamp side. Other than that my testing went as planned and I found my parasitic draw.

This is a total piece of junk. It is both poorly designed and cheaply constructed. First of all, it has a 10 amp fuse installed directly in the main circuit (not the meter protection circuit, which has a separate 7.5A fuse). When I connected it to my car battery system, the 10A fuse immediately blew due to the routine power surge associated with reenergizing a disconnected system. So, this gadget was now useless, unless one replaces that 10A fuse - which simply blows again when you hook it up again. Stupid design. I cut the 10A fuse out and wired that part of the circuit directly. Secondly, the flimsy on-off switch was defective. It was “on” no matter whether the toggle was on 0 or 1. Therefore, the device was (again) unusable as a way to switch between connecting the battery directly or through the ammeter. I had to remove that defective switch and replace it with a switch I had in my junk box. After that, everything worked just fine. If you elect to buy this, I hope you have a better experience than I had.