Tripp Lite LS606M Power Conditioner for Audio Equipment, Appliances, Home Theater & More | 600W, 120V, 6 Outlets, Voltage Regulator (AVR), EMI/RFI Filter, Line Conditioner, 720 Joule Surge Protector

Our washer and dryer in our basement have been acting strange since we moved to our current house. During the hottest days of summer when the grid is under heavy load, we are unable to run our washer. The washer's onboard computer throws a "PL" error message when it starts, which indicates it detects a problem with the power (namely the voltage drops below 104V). We had two different electricians out, and also called our power company, but none of them could explain why the voltage to just that one outlet drops so severely (nothing else in our house experiences problems). We inquired about having the outlet replaced, or even the wiring to that outlet replaced, but both electricians said the wiring and outlet look fine and blame the power company, and the power company blames our home's wiring. We've since learned the issue is actually on the power company with the line coming to our house from the substation, but getting the power company to commit to fixing it is a completely different issue.Stuck with only being able to do laundry at night (and even that's not a given on some hot nights), I started looking at power conditioners that offered AVR. There are a lot of easy/plugin options for computers/electronics (most part of battery backups, which we don't need), and not-so-easy options for things like generators and RV's, but nothing really advertises itself for large appliances (or in our case, a large appliance that also has a computer).Between our washer and dryer (assuming we'd have to plug both in), the combined max load of both appliances is around 2160W. This line conditioner is the "biggest" of the easy/plug-in variety so it was really the only choice. I plugged in just the washer, and it ran fine so we waited for a hot day. The hot day came, and we were able to run laundry all day with no problem. The line condition indicator lights on the front confirmed that the issue we were seeing was low voltage, and it appears to be doing a terrific job of cleaning up the power and boosting the volts back to normal (I haven't actually measured the power coming out of it, so I can't say that definitively).A big caveat to this line conditioner is the "2400W" they advertise. It only offers 2400W if you're using a 20A plug. The plug attached to the line conditioner out of the box is a normal15A plug, so you're instructed to cut the end off and wire up the included 20A adapter in order to get the full 2400W (of course you also need a 20A outlet on a 20A circuit). Until i find the time to do that, we're left with just a measly 1875W. That's still enough for just the washer so I'm happy, but I wish the marketing around this device were more straightforward as I didn't learn this until after I got the device.Edit: just to clarify, we have a natural gas dryer, which uses a normal 15a 120v wall plug (the same kind everything else uses). This conditioner won't work with electric dryers which need the special 240V plugs.

I have two of these, for over ten years so far. Still going strong, and I haven't had a single piece of equipment fail due to PSU problems on them thanks to the steady power provided. I haven't had any lightning surges to test their protection on that count - thankfully! - but they have kept computers running when line voltage blinks and dips in brownouts and once with a serious drop over the grid automatic rerouting latency when a nearby transformer blew out.They make a loud click when switching, so if that's a problem, get something else. I have no other criticisms; the function and quality are both excellent, with great longevity.

I don't even remember when I bought this voltage regulator. I can just look at my Amazon order history, but I'm too lazy to go through all the pages. I will say, however, that this thing has been a soldier for several years because it's 2025 and it is still working perfectly. I guess they still do make some things BIFL.

This has some ferrite rings with coils on them to filter out certain frequencies, some metal oxide varistors to provide surge protection ( they short out the circuit to ground if there is a voltage surge above a certain level--the are sacrificial parts), and a transformer with multiple taps to provide voltage regulation. Basically, if the voltage is too low or high, a relay changes to a transformer tap that boosts or lowers the output voltage relative to the input. This does not give 120V at every input voltage. The output voltages are shown below as a function of input voltages for the rated input range of the device. The values shown are nominal +/- 3 volts so actual out can range from 100 Volt to 130 volts.The sacrificial MOVs are an inexpensive way to provide surge protection. Non-sacrificial method would be to dump the surge voltage through a massive coil, which costs much more than MOVs. Unfortunately you can't tell when the MOVs are shot show you should replace the unit every year or so.Input______OutputVoltage____Voltage87_______103.35688_______104.54489_______105.73290_______106.9291_______108.10892_______109.29693_______110.48494_______111.67295_______112.8696_______114.04897_______115.23698_______116.42499_______117.612100______118.8101______119.988102______111.078103______112.167104______113.256105______114.345106______115.434107______116.523108______117.612109______118.701110______119.79111______120.879112______121.968113______113114______114115______115116______116117______117118______118119______119120______120121______121122______122.0123______123.0124______124.0125______125.0126______126.0127______127.0128______128.0129______116.6130______117.5131______118.4132______119.3133______120.2134______121.1135______122.0136______122.9137______123.8138______124.8139______125.7140______126.6These values are nominal +/- 3 volts so actual out can range from 100 Volt to 130 volts.