Laboratory Dental Vacuum Forming Molding 110V Machine Lab Maquina Ferulas dentQ

I saw this on the Tested Youtube channel. I was trying to resin print clear parts for my 3D models.Given Adam's enthusiastic use, I decided to give this a try.Packaging - I didn't have any issue with packaging. It is cheap Chinese packaging but the machine was well packed.Odor - With any new device that gets super hot, you will notice a little smoke from grease or dirt cooking off. I use mine in my garage with the garage door open for ventilation. You are softening plastic so there will be odor and VOCs which are probably not good for you.Use - Easy to use. This is my first time vacu-forming anything so I had 2 mistakes. Mainly not waiting long enough to heat up. Heat up on the upper level and then lower for the rest of it. Do not vacu-form until the sheet sags a lot. Then drop, turn off the heat and turn on the vacuum as fast as you can. Swing the head to the side and use a paper towel to help press the edges down if needed (not all the time - and puck dependent).Price - a bit expensive for such a basic machine BUT it is heck of a lot easier and cheaper than building your own.Puck Making - Make sure you get all the lines out of your puck. The vacu-form will show ever little defect so if you want a perfect vacu-form part, make sure your puck is of equal quality.

Works better than expected for the price. The suction is really strong and it pics up detail very well. It heats up quickly but the temperature is hard to control so you really have to watch to not over heat the plastic. I recommend getting eye level with the center of thr machine so you can watch the behavior of the plastic during heating. This does not come with instructions but it is pretty straight forward. { Load plastic in frame, lock in place, raise frame with handle, place model on vented vacuform bed (with or without the steel beads if needed, I find them kind of annoying to use), turn the heating element on, wait 30-60 seconds or so until you see the plastic begin to ripple a bit and then sag slighty, turn heat off, use handle to drop frame with malleable plastic onto top of form and simultaneously flip the suction toggle on at the same time for half - one second so that it pulls tightly against the form. There are a couple of good YouTube intros out there for this exact machine. I plan to use this for model making and it has been really fun so far. I am looking for more economically thermoplastic sheeting to purchase than the precut options. I have used some clear plastic from recycled restaurant clam shell packaging but heated it for far less time than the official sheets for sale and it worked fairly well also but obviously not as well as the formulated thermo sheets on Amazon. I look forward to experimenting more with recycled plastics, anyhow. If anyone has any leads on which specific plastic compositions work best or cheaper thermo plastic options, please let me know.

Works great for bleach trays and retainers

I was pleasantly surprised to see how well made this unit is considering the low price. I've read other good reviews and once I received mine I can see why. The main casting is solid as is the operation of the moving parts. Suction is surprisingly good.

This does exactly what it says. The thing seems quite durable, so it will last you a very long time, though you might have to replace the bag of bearings eventually if you're like me and lose a few every time you pour them brom the vacuum basin back into the bag (a funnel is a life saver for this).It is easy to use and though the instructions are not exactly comprehensive, it is as simple as can be. Put in plastic, turn on heat, lower plastic once melting, turn on vacuum for a few seconds, turn the whole thing off.There are a few tricks that I think would be nice if they were included here. First, make sure that if you really need the plastic to melt evenly (which you usually do) I would not fully raise the metal bracket with the plastic towards the heat lamp. There is a setting that stops the plastic splint a couple inches away from the heat lamp, you should usually do that, as it will not take much longer to melt, but may help you avoid accidents and the issues with bubbling that some customers have complained about in the splint.Secondly, you should make sure you turn away the heat lamp part as soon as you turn it off and lower the plastic to the vacuum basin, because if you turn on the vacuum and then leave the part under the heat lamp, it will just keep the plastic from setting, as it is quite hot still, and you may even warp your mold if it is sensitive to heat at all.Really the only fault I can find is that the label stickers are peeling off, so I'll likely have to replace them at some point. Other than that, the thing works like a charm.

Para mi clínica. Me gusta mucho.

I attend class for jewelry design and manufacturing and purchased this item after our instructor brung his to class to see if we could use it to invest and cast at home versus spending a heap of cash on an actual investment and casting machine.We were all excited to learn that yes, we can! So if you're looking for a way to invest and cast without spending a ton of dough, this is it! In this process only the vacuuming is used, not the heating element.However, we also used it for its intended purpose and it works great for that as well.Our instructor purchased his about a year ago and it still works great!The packaging could have been better and if you have no experience with this type of machine I suggest going to youtube and watch an instructional video because the so called instructions are not helpful.

Lots of cool things to do with this. I use it make custom night guards for myself and my son.