Fluid Film1 Gallon Can Rust Inhibitor Rust Prevention Anti Corrosion Anti Rust Coating Undercoating Underbody Rust Proofing Corrosion Protection for Truck Snow Blower Mower Car Semi Tractor Bus

I am in a perpetual battle with rust. I live in Michigan, and buy older high mileage cars for my family. I have tried many rust converter products. A neighbor told me about this product, so I bought a gallon to give it a try. What I like about it is the ease of application. I keep the gallon close by whenever I go underneath any of my cars and give a brush to anything that looks like rust, or even the signs that it could become rust... From an application standpoint, it goes on easily, covers well, and when I have gone back under the vehicle for other work, it seems to be holding up well. It's my first year, so time will tell if it holds back the rust. That said, I have found nothing that works hands down. Some products slow the rust down, but I have found nothing that stops rust in it's tracks. To give you an example of my yearly routine: Jack up the car on all four corners and remove the wheels: Wash the underbody, let it dry a few days, treat anything that looks like rust with a rust converter, give it a couple of days to dry, then retreat if required, or cover the treated area with rustoleum rust primer, give it a couple of days, then paint it with rustoleum shiny black paint. Then move to the next car, and the next car, and the next car. Repeat yearly. The one downside to this product that I can say so far, if it does not work, the are applied is oily/greasy and unlikely to be easily prepped for any other type of rust conversion/paint product.

I love Fluid Film. Even the odor/fragrance is not objectionable at all. It just smells natural.1) I wipe Fluid Film on the interior and exterior of my F150 and it works perfectly on the plastic trim pieces. Same on my wife's Porsche though a bit more sparingly. Wife has a very, very sensitive nose and hasn't complained. No more expensive ArmorAll for me.2) We have a 30 year old (1994) utility trailer and I spray Fluid Film on it with a paint sprayer using an air compressor. I thin it a bit with standard paint thinner until it seems liquid enough to spray. I don't know, probably about 7 parts FF and 1 part thinner, I just wing it. I spray everything on the trailer: wood, metal, wiring, tires, wheels, underneath, on top/inside. The trailer has a thick coating of dust from our dirt road and I don't even wash it off first. I just spray enough that it soaks the dust and makes a thicker coat. Don't think I'll be buying tire shine anymore, either, FF does the job.3) We have decorative old whisky barrels outside and I also spray FF on those. On everything, the wood staves, the metal bands, the top. Protects everything and makes them look amazing.Bought my first gallon of FF about 6 months ago and just purchased another gallon. The first gallon pail arrived without a handle but I robbed a handle from a 5 gallon bucket and made it work. This second gallon arrived upside down but no spillage.Hope this helps someone.

This is my first experience with undercoating but since I bought a gently used Chevy 2500HD and I live in northern Ohio I felt that I should protect my vehicle for the long haul. Firstly, I overbought. I got 2 gallons and planned on doing my truck, a small suv and a Honda Fit. Well after heating up the oil and using a spray gun, I used a single canister which I believe to be about 32 oz on my truck, that figure counts for 2 coats as well. I’m not too sure on some of you saying you used a whole gallon because I can’t see how that’s feasible unless it was brushed on (definitely not spending that kind of time on that big of a vehicle.) all in all, I have plenty of product for the next few years at least. The viscosity from the cold initially was like pudding but after heating it up with a turbo heater it became very maple syrup like. Do that and you’ll have no issues. Use a tarp too! It protects from overspray and you can easily slide around on the concrete lolUpdate March 2019The rust proofing seemed to stay on during the winter. My fine mist did well from what the eye can see and as a tester to see how long it would last, I put it on the face of my tires much like a tire shine, and when I get my truck washed the tires still shine where I applied it! So screw all other tire foams just use this. I’ll be applying it again next fall for sure. Also it appears the price fluctuated based on demand by $10 so something to consider. I think the next time I apply the product I’ll try to find another way to make it very thin and sprayable, like a heating probe or a hot knife tool? I’m open to suggestions because kerosene is expensive and smelly. Good product!!

I live in the North East USA, and find that our winter vehicles only seem to last around 8 or 10 years before their brake and fuel lines start rusting out. Over the last couple of years I've been treating the vehicles to try and make them last longer.Fluid film is easy to apply using a regular 'shutz gun' (though I originally brought the Fluid Film kit that includes a spray gun).Based on two years of application, I'm impressed by the protection that Fluid Film can provide - but the problem is that if it's anywhere exposed to road spray/water, it seems to wash off, and needs to be reapplied each year. I don't yet know if the protection it's providing to the lines is good enough to protect them the entire winter. My feeling so far is that Fluid Film works best when sprayed inside doors and panels where it can 'drip' into the nooks and crannies where water (and salt) would normally gather - and corrosion begin. To apply to some of these places it's easier to use the aerosol cans (with an extended spray wand)). I now use the gallon cans to spray inside frame rails and other 'hidden' locations under the vehicle where where it won't be removed by road spray. This year I've applied another product (Amsoil HD Metal Protector) to more exposed locations). This product seems to 'set' more than the Fluid Film and (hopefully) will provide better protection in exposed locations. However, it is only available in (expensive) aerosols.