WINSINN HT-NTC100K Thermistor Sensor, Ender 3 v2 Upgrade 3x15 3950 XH2.54 2Pin, Compatible with Ender 3 5 Pro CR6 CR10 Series 3D Printer Hotend (Pack of 5Pcs)

Heard it was a frequent part that wears out so I bought these as backupThe ones i replaced were from physical damage and these have been working for years of close to continuous use

Arrived undamaged.Used "Generic 3950" in Klipper printer.cfg as sensor.Ran PID_CALIBRATE and started using it.

Well made and once installed so far working well. I have it a easy to install of 4 because it’s 6 inches shorter than the Creality thermistor cable. This restricts the x axis from going all the way up to 240-250mm. I bought the non changeable version. I was fortunate enough due to other hobbies to have a set of connectors on wires to make a jumper eith the extra 6-8” needed (8” better) I’m not futecif cutting and soldering in a extra length of wires would change the accuracy of the original crimped wires. Have extras that may be another answer, use one to make a longer cable? So except for this minor but important issue I’m liking how it’s working! One other minor side is the shrink tubing on the thermistor is a little long and can stop the casing from inserting all the way into the heat block. A little trimming back of the shrink tubing and is webtvin all the way. If I was to buy again( have askers do ot may be done time) I think I’d buy the version with the replaceable thermistor tips. Mainly because running new sites inside the Creality black cable covering all the way to control board is time consuming. Not a complaint but a tip if your not sure about which version to buy.So to sum it up, working great but may be a little short cable wise.

I questioned whether these worked or not, cutting up 2 already as i thought they were bad, but turns out, i think cura was screwing me up with how the temperatures kept changing, so I had this wild theory that something was bugged in cura from what i was slicing to 3d print. With this in mind, I decided to, as much as i wanted to avoid it, download prusaslicer. I watched a beginner guide and was up and running, I changed the temps to the appropriate tmep for my lw pla. And once I imported my file it said it had ERRORS....FLIPPING ERRORS... There was an exclamation point next to it allowing me to repair, which i did so, and now it has been printing for a couple of hours, no runaway temperatures. SIMPLE FIX: Try different slicers.

If you are looking to purchase this for your 3D printer, specifically the Ender 3 with an upgraded extruder, and have the Marlin firmware installed they will work. I've spent a few hours working and testing them with a multimeter and temperature probe refining the results. Below should get you in the ball park for accurate temperatures on your hot end within 0-1½ degrees Celsius:M301 p32.19 i2.12 d122.30define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6161 is 100kΩ Formbot/Vivedino 350°C Thermistor - beta 3950Using those settings run a M303 PID autotune then use/save the values and you're all set. If you are running the stock Ender 3 firmware, these will not work, you need to have the Marlin firmware installed.

great quality, and for the price i couldn’t resist that many.

These do not work!!! I tried the type 1, 11, and 13 thermocoupes in Marlin and none of them work. Like other reviewers said, the temp swings all over the place, causing errors. Keep your $11 and buy a genuine E3D thermistor!!!

They crimped the cable following the metal casing around the thermistor, so that the thermistor won't slide all the way in. It is therefore dangerous and useless.