HDMI 2.1 Splitter 4K 120Hz 8K 60Hz 1 in2 Out VRR ALLM HDCP2.3 HDR10 8KUHD Dolby Vision Atmos Scaler 4K EDID 1080P Dual Monitors HDMI 2.1 Splitter 1X2 for PS5 SkyQ Xbox NVIDIA AMD

I've just been recently getting back into streaming and was setting up my Elgato HD 60S+ to do some PS5 Pro capture, but realized that the passthrough on my Elgato HD60S+ induces input lag and has problems with processing HDR signals. I was looking for a cheap alternative to:A) Scale my 4K 60 FPS PS5 output to 1080p (for ease of capture)B) Split the signal from my PS5 Pro and loop it back to my TV so I could make the full use of the signal, max 4K 120 FPS w/ HDRAfter a bit of setup I can do EXACTLY that with this little box. It's largely plug & play, although I did need a USB extension cable for the included USB-A to USB-C power cable (it's quite short). Now I can easily capture my PS5 Pro using my Elagto HD60S+ (scaled down to 1080p) while sending an untouched 4K 120FPS signal from my PS5 to my TV through this splitter/scaler. Thank you.Will update in the future with any concerns!Pros:+ Tiny and easy to setup+ Highly functional as both a splitter (of 1 input) and a scaler (to two separate outputs)+ Great for bypassing HDCP HDMI limitations of Elgato Capture Cards+ indicator lights display when inputs/outputs are activeCons:+ Gets quite warm+ short stock USB-A to C (m2m) cable+ easily susceptible to static electrical shocks

The CEC really works well .(I have updated firmware to v1.09 version first.)

Wanted to split the single hdmi 2.1 port from my 4070 gpu. Using to send signal to my lg c3 42in pc monitor, and the second going to my lg c3 77in tv. I wanted to make it so that I wouldn't have to swap cables into a single port. Connected everything and set the EDID to allow for 4k@120hz and Dolby 7.1 . Got an intermittent black flicker as if it was losing the signal briefly then kicking back in. Thought maybe I had a bad cable, so I swapped them out. Same issue. Tested the cables connected straight to the gpu instead of via the splitter and the problem resolved. So the only thing I can assume at this point is its the splitter. Whether it is faulty or just a poor quality item is hard to say. I will have to return this and get something different. Wanted to try and warn others against getting this product.

My setup involves a 20' HDMI 2.1 cable (my consoles are on the side of the room). Never an issue with audio or video with this. My series X lights up with all the HDMI 2.1 goodies it supports. MY AVR only supports HDMI 2.0b so no 4k @120hz.... I used ARC for years in till that stopped working, weeks of trying things no go. So I have a great Atmos sound system but, I can only use my video game consoles through the speakers on the TV.... no fun.So, this guy looks like it will help, fairly inexpensive as well, fair reviews. So gave it a shot, spent another $40 to pick up other HDMI 2.1 cables to make sure I had enough.As said, it needs a 5v 2amp power cord, got one of those, connected it all up, my video games would go in the input, and on the output, only change is on the 2nd port out, I adjusted that so it would be only 1080p. Port one would go directly in the TV. The TV lights up with all the HDMI 2.1 goodies it supports as it should. Port 2 would down convert to 1080p 120hz (all within HDMI 2.0b spec) and send to my AVR. Sounds good, Right ?The TV is fine but, the problem is with the Audio. Atmos on my AVR would go on for like 5-10 seconds and drop out, then drop out again, rinse and repeat forever. When the audio jumped out, it would sometimes cause flickering/black screens for a second. So, I got Atmos but, not usable. Tried DTS just for giggles and the same thing happened. I have never seen this issue before owning this device.I contacted the seller; they gave me things to try, and I tried every one of them. No change. They even sent me a replacement, after waiting another week, tried and the SAME THING HAPPENED. They really tried to help.They claim use a short HDMI cable, so I even tried a HDMI 2.1 repeater to help boost the signal (maybe that was the issue?) This resulted in no change at all. I really wanted this to work.After almost 3 weeks of troubleshooting this, spending extra money and anything I could possibly help including tons of time with Dr. Google. I will be returning this item, I think I have tried everything (did a lot more than even posted here, trust me)It just does not work for my case.

I bought this to replace the SP12H2 model because a reviewer said that this one supports CEC (the SP12H2 does not). Well, neither does this one. I'm using it to split a connection from an AVR to the TV and an ESP32 to control Hyperion LED lighting. Without CEC I have to power the TV off manually. This does NOT solve that problem. I should have listened to the manufacturer when they say it lacks support for CEC rather than a reviewer saying it did.Edit 12/11/2024:So after going down a rabbit hole, I need to amend my review. This WILL do CEC. However, you need to (first find and) download GD32 All In One Programmer, SP12H21 Firmware Update, and also the GD32 USB drivers. This will allow you to flash the firmware to an updated version that will support CEC. Mine did not out of the box and finding all the software is difficult but doable. Now I can confirm what the other reviewers said and it will do CEC with the proper firmware.