Atrend 3001SBA 336 Watt RMS, Class-D Amplifier Built into an Airtight & Impact Resistant Enclosure, Black

Easy to install, although the included template is too small, cut out needs to be 3.25x7.5. The template included on the box measures 3x7.25. Other than that snafu, everything about the amp is easy to figure out. I'm running a vented 8-ohm 12 inch sub, and it sounds awesome.The remote uses a standard 3.5mm 3 conductor male to male cable. The included cable is at least 15 feet long.The power cable connector is robustly made, and I like the fact the connector is made to quickly disconnect if I need to remove the sub, without having to unscrew anything. Overall 5 stars.

I was happy with this amp until it went up in smoke...LITERALLY!!! My listening habits aren't very demanding on my subwoofers or amps, so I was very disappointed when this one suddenly fried itself without warning. I started smelling burned electronics while driving, so I pulled over to find the source. The amp was smoking despite the heatsink being barely warm to the touch. I'm just outside of the return period, but hopefully they'll honor the warranty...Update: Do NOT expect any help when seeking assistance for warranty issues. Atrend suggested I work through the seller for the warranty. In this case, big A was the seller (not a 3rd party). According to A's customer support, they would only offer a partial refund minus a restocking fee. Really...a restocking fee...!?!?!?

So I had this hooked up using the high inputs, powered by proper ofc wire 4gau, and this barely pushes my skar 8in sub wired at two ohms. I’ve got proper soldered connections for the inputs (no splices) and good ground but it barely hits compared to the last 300wrms amp I had, or even the 100wrms I had. The wires for the output are undersized as well so believe this is just a weak amp. Hard to believe how little power this puts out before pt light flashes. I’m fairly certain I’ve done everything right, so I’m gonna have to give this amp two stars. I’ll change my review if anything changes as I really want this amp to be good but so far it cuts out before putting out proper power. Will try rca in the future to see if there is a difference.

I purchased this item after I saw a sample at one of my near by local car audio shop. They didn’t have one for me to purchase. The guy told me it was on amazon and sent me the link. I have already installed it in my single 12” vented box by Atrend and it’s been bumping since yesterday. It was super easy plugged in the power and ground to the front and the back had the leads to the subwoofer. It’s enclosed on the back so presume it can probably be used not just for a speaker box. So far nothing but great things!

1) I am not saying this is the case here. "Just Sayin'"; in speaker and - by extension - amplifier - testing: you simply must, must, MUST isolate the front of the speaker from the back. NO speaker works properly hanging in "free air", (out in the breeze, one might say). The speaker doesn't even have to be anything like sealed.When I worked at the late, lamented, Radio Shack, I would demo speaker raw drivers by hooking the driver to an amp, and setting it back in its box, face up, box lid open, (for dramatic effect, I would place the speaker in the box, while it was playing - the difference in performance between free air and front-to-back was STUNNING). Don't believe me? Try it for yourself, next time you buy/order a raw speaker, or if you still have the box and all the internal packing materials a raw speaker came in ;^)2) As far as I know, at least one of the warranty companies will let you buy a replacement warranty on pretty much ANYTHING electronic, no matter where you bought it, as long as it's soon enough after you purchased it. It appears the manufacturer of this unit MAY have quality/design issues, so - given how inexpensive this unit is - the extra expense might well be worth it, for your own peace of mind.3) That being said; it's electronically REALLY hard to drive a complex, inductive, load, (such as a speaker), all the way down to 2 ohms. This unit is inexpensive enough that I intend to buy TWO of these amplifiers, and drive TWO, (identical - they HAVE to be identical), subs in what is called "clamshell isobaric" configuration: you mount the one speaker normally, with the other one face-to-face, sticking out, on top. Of course, the second speaker has to be wired opposite, (out of phase) for this to work. Given the way the wired remote for this amplifier works, a standard, wired, y-cable for headphones should work to allow you to control both units with one remote, as long as you also hook both "12V on", (orange), wires to the same, switched, signal, (that is, some circuit that is only on when the ignition is on). You can use one of those tap terminals that slides on top of the terminal of a fuse - to the ”cold” side of the fuse, (corresponding to the terminal that is dead when the fuse is pulled). There is no need to rig a relay to do this, the 12V wire is functionally the same as a trigger, (coil), wire to a relay.IF it works this way, you COULD mount the second amplifier inside the speaker box, also taking the volume into account if you're using a custom enclosure, as explained below3) If, for whatever reason, you don't want to go the "clamshell isobaric" route, you can still configure two subs in isobaric configuration. One way would be to put them on either end of a woofer tube, MOUNTED normally, but WIRED - again - OUT of phase, (wired opposite to each other). The other would be to acoustically seal them to each other, back-to-FRONT, both inside the enclosure. You want the cone of the back one as close to the magnet of the front one as possible, (about 2x Xmax apart, or about 1 inch to be safe if you don't know the Xmax of your speaker - or don't even know what the heck an "Xmax" is, LOL). Of course, in this case, they must be IN phase, (both wired the same).4) I can just hear somewhat knowledgeable people raising the objection that if you're using a prefab enclosure, that you lose all the volume of the additional speaker, inside the enclosure. That is of course true, which is why I'm going to use the clamshell isobaric or woofer tube isobaric method as described above [Probably both! ;^)].Anyway, the loss of air volume would be more than offset by doubling Vas, and doubling available amplifier power. In fact, in this case, I would recommend using 8 ohm subs, or wiring DVC subs' voice coils in SERIES.The other thing is, any of the various free - or commercial - speaker design software packages would facilitate taking this into account. If the software doesn't have the explicit capability to model an isobaric speaker configuration, (which it may well not), simply use all the Thiele/Small parameters for ONE speaker, except, as noted above, in your calculations DOUBLE the Vas. Also, make sure that you take into account the entire volume of both speakers inside the enclosure.

Solid Amp, not big at all. Bought a few weeks ago and wanted to put it to use before leaving a review. Power is more than I expected and attaching to my box was easy. Recommend to anyone that wants to easily be able to remove their sound system for trunk space and plug back in. Can blast music when driving alone then take it out to put in the stroller or golf clubs.

Started cutting the output signal in and out after one week of use. Just save yourself the headache, and buy a name brand. This company makes boxes, not amps...

I bought this unit for my single JL AUDIO 12 inch subwoofer. I cut the box on the side and mounted this amp. This amp does much more than I expected. My trunk shakes with bass. I’m very happy with this product. If I could give 10 stars I would. I’ll be buying a second unit for my truck next week.