Abatron WoodEpox Kit - 2 Gallon - 2-Part Structural Epoxy Adhesive and Wood Hardener - Wood Filler Putty

This wood epoxy is really easy to work with because it forms like a putty!! Does exactly what they say it does. Sandable & paintable!! Cures hard with no cracks!!

This product is great if you need to match the profile of the non-rotted wood. I used it to repair the rotted wood corner of a door, which I thought would be impossible to repair without replacing the wood. It has a long work time, unlike some epoxies and is easy to sand, especially with a Drexel Multi-Max. You can shape it with tools. I actually used a paint stick and popsicle sticks to match the existing door edges. You want to make sure you mix the two parts well and is a solid tan color. If you don’t mix well, you won’t get a good cure and the stuff will crumble. Found that out on my first attempt using the product. It is expensive compared to other wood fillers, but the ability to work it really stands out. Bondo wood filler works well to fill large areas, but is better on flat surfaces because it sets up too fast and is too mushy to work before it hardens. QuikWood is easy to use and works well for filling holes, but much firmer so hard to use to match a profile. The non-epoxy wood fillers have not given me lasting repairs on exterior wood. The stuff also goes a long way. I’ve used the same small containers to make multiple repairs. You also want to make sure you use a wood hardener on the rotted wood (e.g. LiquidWood) to give the epoxy a firm surface to stick to. If possible, I drive stainless steel screws into the hardened rot into the fresh wood underneath, leaving the screw head and part of the screw out to give the epoxy more to adhere to and provide a stronger repair.

I actually like this stuff for filling "happy accidents" in paint grade projects. I will note that what I have is very soft and easy to mix the two parts in your hand. I suggest to the reviewers that are saying the product is dry, crumbly, difficult to mix. etc that they have bad product and should return it. This stuff, when right, is easy to combine and easy to place. I seriously don't recommend replacing huge sections of rotted wood with it though, the cost is prohibitive for that. Saw out the bad lumber and replace it. Use this stuff to conceal the joints, screw holes and the like. If you happen to drill a hole in the wrong place, this product works great to make that go away. It does cure rather slow, so don't expect 5 minute epoxy. Not the answer to every problem but worth having around the shop for sure.

I was rebuilding a deck and wanted to fill a large void in a pressure treated 4x4 post that was used in its construction. I did some online research and decided to try WoodEpox. When I received the 2 quart kit I was initially shocked at how light weight it was and was having serious doubts about it filling and reinforcing the quart sized void in the wood and having any structural integrity. Mixing: I determined the amount of hardener and epoxy to use by using a scale and weighing the material. When mixing I initially tried to put it in a gallon zip lock bag and massage it into an even consistency but in the end used my hands with rubber gloves to complete the mixing process. Application: The area to be filled was treated with cut solution for rot prevention about 2 weeks prior to the epoxy application. The void was bounded by white wood on 2 sides to prevent the epoxy from falling out and when full another piece of wood was used to cover the 3rd side of the void. In filling the void I was careful to make sure it was forced into the corners to completely fill those hard to fill areas. When I was applying the epoxy it acted like it didn't want to adhere to the wood, another concern. I let it setup for 3 days in 80 degree heat. Overall impression: Upon trying to remove the white wood, it wouldn't come off, the epoxy adhered so well, I really had to work at prying off the wood and it left bits of wood in the epoxy that I had to had hand plane down (you can still see some in the photo). I would recommend using some plastic between the wood and epoxy to allow an easy release of any material it may touch. And in the end it seemed to also adhere to the pressure treated wood well too. I also had some extra epoxy and created a 2x2 cube of the material and let it cure. I tried drilling and putting a screw into it and it seemed very structural especially considering the weight of the material. Overall I am pleased with this product and would use it again, I gave it 4 stars because it is kind of expensive.

Excellent Product. I liked that the mixing ration was 1 to 1. at Home Depot they had some other product that had a mixing ration of 50 to 1. Figuring out 1 to 1 is a lot easier. I had to repair some termite damage, this product which has a clay type consistency is very easy to apply and form. I was using plastic wood from another seller, that was too liquid and would not stay in place for large section or gaps. I later learned though that for side applications it is better to first use their liquid wood hardener since it leaves a stick surface for the clay to adhere to. This product is also very easy to grind down with a surform tool and an electric sander.

This has to be the best wood repair product on the market. It is slightly more expensive than the "wannabees" at the big bix stores, but its worth the money. It's easy to apply, to build up layers, and when dry, to shape by sanding. If you have an eye for detail, you won't be able to detect your repair. It takes paint beautifully and is recommended for historic structures. Low odor.

This is a very good product, and a fantastic deal for this quantity (about 2 gallons by volume) for such a strong epoxy. It is a little different than other epoxies I've used. It is clearly strong enough for structural use, (this is not explicitly stated,but PSI endurance is obviously very high), and it is completely weatherproof, after a few hours, and becomes drill-able, sand-able, & paint-able. It's not exactly like other epoxies I've used: when you start to mix it, it is more like cake, so don't try to stir the ingredients together. It is best to place equal parts of each onto a piece if tin foil, and pick them up an repeatedly fold the two parts by hand, until the colors have blended completely. After blending, it will be like a firm putty, but a little too firm to "spread" like peanut-butter would. So it's better to form the shape you want in your hands, and press the shape into place. I suggest testing how it works with a golf-ball size test-sample to see how it cures and shapes. When you make your first batch, start with about the total size no larger then two hamburgers (a burger from each bucket). You can always add more as you go. Be advised that the mixing of the two parts generates its own chemical-heat (the directions mention this), and so thicker pieces generate and retain more heat, and therefore thicker cures quicker. Doctor's latex gloves would be fine. A trowel or spackle-knife didn't work very well for me, because it does not spread well. It is very good for vertical applications, because it will not slump the way softer putties might. A small con is that oil-base paint dries very slowly on it, (the directions mention this) and so the paint will dry but might never cure/harden optimally. You might try sanding to rough up the surface before applying oil-base paint, and do some trial-and error with your sample pieces to get a feel for how paint takes to it, if that is critical. Overall, I am very pleased with this, but like I said, it takes a little experience to get a feel for it. Definitely play with a small sample or two. It cures in a couple hours, so not a huge time-investment, to learn it, and worth it. If you are using this to repair rotted wood, buy their liquid wood product, and read all instructions carefully. This stuff saved me thousands, offsetting possible structural repairs in a complex application.

My front door faces west and catches the sun, it's original to the house and 50 years old. The spar protective finish had faded and over time there was a bit of wicking from the bottom and veneer seams had opened in a couple of places. This epoxy was just what I needed. You can work a little stain into the epoxy so the color matches the wood. Easy to use and good results, new spar finish adhered just fine and doors look great.

Quando vivevo negli Stati Uniti, usavo sempre woodepox. Sono così felice di poter comprare in Italia!

This product is significantly superior and cheaper than anything available in Australia. Application is easier, especially when replacing missing wood. It sets solid. It sands super smooth. It's paintable after priming No wonder I can't find it here on shelves.

In two boxes is a paste which I’ve melted in my hands wearing first gloves. It’s ready in two minutes but to shape it was better after another 10 minutes. The filler was very good for me because doesn’t dry in seconds so I’ve had a time to put it everywhere where I needed and even I could move from one place where I used it too much to another hole where I didn’t have enough of filler. So far I’m happy with the product but we can see in a year 😁

Perfetto

Just try. You will see 😉