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The SZC23-NO-AL- Normally Open Current Sensing Switch is a self-powered, highly accurate AC current sensor adjustable from 0.2 to 30A. Featuring a built-in potentiometer for easy sensitivity tuning and LED indicators for real-time status, it delivers industrial-grade durability with a high-power MOSFET switch capable of unlimited cycles. Ideal for AC motor overload protection, electronic switch control, and current monitoring without the need for external power or complex wiring.
| ASIN | B07SFWWPP7 |
| ASIN | B07SFWWPP7 |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |
| Customer Reviews | 4.2 4.2 out of 5 stars (29) |
| Customer reviews | 4.2 4.2 out of 5 stars (29) |
| Date First Available | 18 March 2021 |
| Date First Available | 18 March 2021 |
| Finish | Finish |
| Included components | inc |
| Installation Method | InstallationMethod |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Item Weight | 60 g |
| Manufacturer | YWBL-WH |
| Manufacturer | YWBL-WH |
| Manufacturer reference | YWBL-WH7ya26gwvt9 |
| Manufacturer reference | YWBL-WH7ya26gwvt9 |
| Material | plastic |
| Measurement System | Imperial |
| Part number | YWBL-WH7ya26gwvt9 |
| Power source type | PowerSource |
| Product Dimensions | 6.5 x 5 x 2.5 cm; 60 g |
| Product Dimensions | 6.5 x 5 x 2.5 cm; 60 g |
| Specification met | ms |
| Spout Height | 1 Centimeters |
| Switch Style | Limit Switch |
E**D
I used to have a DLP projector, and had a current-loop sensor to bring the screen down via an X10 module when the lamp was on, and back up when the lamp was off (even though the cooldown fan was on). However, upgrading from XGA DLP to 4K LED means that there is no fan, and power consumption is a measly 0.4 amps max. This sensor replaced the old one, and I set the sensitivity so as soon as the LED fires up it closes the normally-open contacts which causes the X10 module to send the command to actuate the electric screen. When it's turned off, the screen comes back up. There were no instructions with it, so the only question I had was "do I turn the pot toward H or L to get the desired sensitivity." Fortunately it has a red LED (closed contacts) and a green LED (open contacts) so I just kept turning it clockwise (toward H) until it went green. Then turning on the projector made it go red, trigger the NO circuit, and voila, screen drops down. It took me longer to open the wrapping and unbox it than it did to set it up and use it. I also managed to drop it from about 4ft (1.2 meters) and it bounced off the tile floor undamaged. Definitely worth it if you have the application/need for it. Ehud Gavron Tucson, Arizona US
D**E
This product works as advertised. I had 3 different switches for lights on 3 separate circuits. I wanted to turn on a remote light that would illuminate anytime any one of those switches were on so I would know if I had inadvertently left the lights on. Ran all 3 switch legs through this and it works perfectly to do what I needed.
M**T
I used this to run an infinity DC 6โ diameter air venting motor with silencers to circulate air to different rooms when my MrCool heat/ac pump turns on. To control a higher watts/amp, use a solid state relay in conjuction with this device. Still flawlessly working after 1 year.
J**E
I bought 2 and a 115v relay to make wide current switch
A**S
I replaced the furnace humidifier and always knew that besides the humidistat you should have a flow detector, either air or current. Simply pass the hot wire of the furnace through the dandy little opening and then connect the 24vac humidifier water flow contact through the contactor and voila! The water now only flows when the furnace is on AND the humidistat calls for it. My house is way more comfortable now!
Trustpilot
3 weeks ago
4 days ago