HiLetgo 2pcs 5V One Channel Relay Module Relay Switch with OPTO Isolation High Low Level Trigger

Wiring was super intuitive and everything just worked. I was able to power, ground and provide signal all from Arduino and then pull 12V DC from a 4A dedicated power source and connect it directly to the 12V DC magnet when the relay receives a signal. Perfect solution for my secret bookcase door project! Only note was that the relay screws needed the perfect sized screw driver because it felt like it was going to strip with the one little screwdriver I use for everything so I had to get a new small screwdriver kit and then i was able to repeatedly install and change configurations on this board without any problem.

As long as you have a multimeter this is one of the most reliable relay switches I have used. I have it sealed in a large shrink-wrap tube filled with hot glue freely mounted to the side of my bike.

as advertised. great item.

Works well, but it is NOT a bistable/self-latching relay. Requires power for the NO contact to remain closed after engaging the relay (and the opposite for the NC contact). The control line (marked "IN") must be held to the same level as the jumper to keep the relay engaged, i.e. if the jumper is L, IN must be 0V/Ground/Low, if the jumper is H, IN must be 5V/High. Info: 5V relay uses 1ma with relay off and 64ma with relay on. I'll probably find a use for these relays, but I am disappointed that they are not true self-latching relays. I don't know the duty cycle of the relay, but it gets slightly warm after a minute, and I've left it on for at least 10 minutes straight so far with no problem.

Great relays for a BC-250 gaming rig. Enables soft shutdowns in CachyOS (probably other OSes as well) when attached to a momentary switch and was able to still power a 12v power LED when attached to the FSP500-30AS PSU's 12v rails. Way easier to wire up/connect than doing a solder soft shutdown mod.

I connected the unit to a Raspberry Pi Zero 2W, in order to turn on the 120v main for a UV LED outdoor light project. The DC+ went to the 5v pin (Pin 4) The DC- went to a ground pin (Pin 6) The IN went to GPIO4 (pin 7) The COM went to the Black (HOT) line on the 120v plug. The NO went to the Brown (LOAD) wire on my voltage converter. The 120v Plug's White (Neutral) line is connected to the blue line on the voltage converter. A python script on the Raspberry Pi runs every 5 minutes during the hours between 6pm and midnight via the cron function. The script turns on the converter for 2 minutes and then lets the LEDs cool for 3. Voltage converter link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5SJ72Y

I need to pulse some fuel injectors off an engine for cleaning and testing purposes so I have this relay connected to an ESP32 and basically just modified the standard 'blink' code to blink really fast. But instead of it blinking an LED directly, it was triggering the relay. I used a small 12V to 5V buck converter scavenged from an old car/lighter phone charger to power the ESP32 and relay from a 12V adapter, then just fed the 12V+ into the COM port of the relay and connected the NO to the load, and voila, every 60ms the relay completes the circuit and fired the injectors just as I needed. The video shows a 12V LED I used for testing, but same principle, and everything worked flawlessly.

It works at the beginning, but broken after three weeks controlling Christmas lights. I used the little relay to control Christmas lights blinking every night. About 650 blinks per night. It was easy to setup and the green/red operation LEDs on board were very helpful. Initial runs were smooth and successful. However, the relay was broken after 20 days of operation. The relay module failed. The NC is not connecting anymore. Luckily, the package came with two relays. So, I replaced it with the second relay, and it works again. Hope it runs longer this time, at least finish this holiday season.

Connected this relay to Shelly Uni to be able to opens my front door remotely. Works really well

No es adecuado a lo que necesito.