Official Creality Ender 3 3D Printer with Resume Printing Function and Stable Power Supply, High Precision Printing and High-standard V-profiles DIY 3D Printers Printing Size 8.66*8.66*9.84 inches

If you’ve been on the fence about diving into 3D printing—or if you're looking to upgrade from a finicky, bare-bones starter machine—the Creality Ender 3 S1 is an absolute home run. Creality took everything that made the original Ender 3 a community favorite and added the exact premium upgrades users used to spend hundreds of dollars modifying themselves. Out of the box, this machine feels like a refined, modern workhorse. Key Highlights The "Sprite" Direct Drive Extruder: This is the star of the show. Unlike older Bowden tube setups, the direct drive extruder handles flexible filaments like TPU with absolute ease. It offers incredibly precise extrusion, meaning fewer clogs, better retraction, and crisp print details. CR Touch Auto Bed Leveling: If you've ever owned an older 3D printer, you know that manual bed leveling can be a frustrating chore. The built-in CR Touch system takes a 16-point measurement of the bed before printing, automatically compensating for any microscopic unevenness. It saves time and guarantees a perfect first layer almost every time. Dual Z-Axis Leadscrews: Creality didn't skimp on stability here. Powered by dual synchronized motors, the dual Z-axis ensures the x-gantry moves perfectly level. This drastically reduces "Z-wobble" and gives tall prints an incredibly smooth, professional surface finish. Quick Assembly: You don't need an engineering degree to set this up. The printer arrives 96% pre-assembled. You can realistically have it unboxed, put together in about six easy steps, and printing your first test model in under 30 minutes. The Printing Experience Using the Ender 3 S1 is a joy compared to its predecessors. The removable PC spring steel magnetic build plate offers fantastic adhesion while printing, and once the bed cools down, you can simply pop the plate off, flex it, and your prints snap right off. No more dangerous scraping with putty knives. It is also remarkably quiet, thanks to the 32-bit silent mainboard. You can easily have this running on a desk next to you while you work without being distracted by the typical electronic whining of older machines. The Verdict Rating: 4.5/5 The Creality Ender 3 S1 bridges the gap between budget hobbyist machines and high-end plug-and-play printers. With the Sprite direct drive, CR Touch leveling, and rock-solid dual Z-axis stability, it eliminates the most common headaches of 3D printing. It’s an exceptional investment for beginners who want a smooth start, and a powerful tool for veterans who just want a machine that works. Highly recommended!

I love this printer! I have a CR-10s and wanted to add another printer as I'll be selling parts and need to increase my print capacity. Overall, I'm more impressed with this little powerhouse than I am with my CR-10s though they use much of the same components and are built using very similar hardware. I'll outline the similarities and differences below. I print PLA and PLA+ from Hatchbox and eSun (200c and 210c respectively) but otherwise my Cura settings are the same for both (tweaked default Cura profiles). While it's nice to have the extra print volume, I prefer the Ender 3 and for the price I will probably be buying several more! Similarities include: frame parts and hardware (sizing differs), hot end, bowden tube, X and Y axis motor and drive belt. Differences: Smaller print volume (Ender 220x220x250; CR10 300x300x400) All-in-one design (doesn't have a 'ball-and-chain' control box like the CR-10 does) Single Z axis motor and rod (CR-10 has a dual Z motor/rod) Coated print bed (CR-10 comes with a glass bed) Large, easy to adjust bed leveling knobs (CR-10 has annoying small bed leveling knobs) Filament spool mount at the top of the frame (CR-10 mounted on control box) No color inserts, straight black frame *UPDATE: My hot end seems to have died after printing great for a couple days. I will be returning and re-ordering because I loved this little printer so much while it was working. Unfortunately, the hot end is permanently wired into the control box so a part swap wouldn't be easy. Re-ordering a new printer is the way to go on this one. It started as under-extrusion halfway through a print. Then I noticed the extruder gear would push filament and then snap back like there was resistance somewhere along the line. I ruled out the extruder gear by running the extruder without filament, it worked as expected. It would only do this when it tried to push filament through the nozzle. The next logical step was to clean it out in case there was a partial clog, unlikely since it was a brand new printer. All cleaned and still no luck. It actually seemed to be getting worse. The more I tried to trouble shoot, the less filament would come out of the hot end. Eventually, the hot end no longer reach a temp capable of melting the filament and I couldn't even hand feed filament through. The screen read 210c but the hot end was barely heated at all. Return processed, printer re-ordered. The assembly was a breeze and I'm sure I can get the new one printing in an hour or so now that I've gone through the assembly once already. I'll edit with another update soon... UPDATE 2: The new printer has been running like a gem for a few weeks now. I LOVE this little thing. I won't post a long-winded update. I'll just say that returning and re-ordering through Amazon was a breeze as always and in my opinion makes it work the extra money over some other lower-priced options outside of Amazon. That's all folks! Now I need to get back to printing!

After fiddling with and repairing my neighbor's printer, I decided it was time to buy my own. I looked around at multiple different printers. After looking at the Repraguru kits, Dremel models, Prusa models and others, I borrowed a friend's Ender 3. I immediately fell in love with it. This printer has a great balance of sturdiness, ease of assembly and use, community support, and mods. Mods are very important. First of all, the printer arrived at my doorstep a day early. This was important as I am helping print PPE for my local first responders as well as medical staff in need. It took less than an hour to assemble. After completed a test print wit the included SD card, I was ready to start printing masks and face shields. Since I am relatively new to 3D printing, I did not have a preferred slicer program. The included SD card has a number of utilities to allow you setup and print 3D prints that you download. Creality's beta slicer program is very simple and easy to use. If you prefer remote printing, you can do that as long as you have a computer and the enclosed SD card. For me, I used Octoprint instead. Either way, the printer easily configured to print remotely. I can forget the metal frame and location of parts. Unlike my neighbor's kit 3D printer, this thing is clean and easy to use. The current version even has a the ability to update settings with having to flash to EEPROM. As a result, all I had to do is watch a couple of youtube videos and voila, I'm updating a 3D printer for the first time. All in all, you can't go wrong. if you get one of these things. Now, my biggest worry is whether I have enough filament. Because I seem to have things to design and print, all the time. Thanks for a great product.

I've wanted a 3D printer since they had their first surge on the consumer side years ago, but never had the disposable income to pick one up. I finally decided to pull the trigger on it and am very happy with what I got. (Picture descriptions in Part 3- Use) ## Why Ender 3: Before purchasing I watched a bunch of videos from various people and even though they consistently said "I like X printer over the Ender 3" most of them would also qualify their opinion with "I've owned 2-3 Ender 3's". Frankly, if you've bought a product that cost a Couple Hundred Bucks *MULTIPLE* times, then I can only take that as an endorsement. I also looked at many samples from Ender 3 that made me confident that the quality would be acceptable. Furthermore, it's pretty clear that Ender 3 is easily mod-able and is well supported within the community, so it seemed like the easiest machine to troublehshoot/fix/improve if I needed to (and I assumed I would need to) ## Assembly: I have some degree of mechanical intuition (nothing I would boast about, but I can get around alright), so even though the instructions only had pictures, I was able to get through about 80% of the assembly easily. The X gantry (the crossbeam assembly with the hotend, in case I'm using the wrong part name since, again, no text in the assembly instructions) was a bit ambiguous based on the pictures so I had to pull up a video tutorial to assemble that. The wiring instructions were also a jumbled mess that I had to stare at for about 10 minutes before finally realizing what went wear (even then I initially plugged the "x" stepper cable into the "z" stepper and only realized my mistake when I couldn't find a place to plug the x limit switch's cable). ## Use (with pictures) I spent about 15 leveling the bed using the ubiquitous "Paper Method" that I had seen on several Youtube videos (put a paper between the nozzle and the bed and then adjust until the paper has decent pressure but can still be moved). Picture 1 is the Bed Leveling test print I used at that point, which told me I needed to spend another 20 minutes leveling the bed again. After that I started to print the Test Dog Creality provides. While it was printing, I found out via Google that a) it was going to take longer than I wanted to wait, and b) the filament Creality provides isn't even enough to print the Dog (which seems really shortsighted to me, since most beginner users like myself would assume that you would be able to print at least one of the test pieces with the provided filament). During those two initial prints I had heard this "Pacman" type noise (similar in tone to when you pick up the power dot). Since it sounded like your typical piezo/computer board speakers, I found a cover for the one on the Ender 3's PCB and printed it out. As you can see (top of Picture 2) it came out pretty badly warped. It was late so I continued printing to use up the rest of the filament, but the following morning I did some research and found it was probably because my X Belt was a hair loose; felt tight to me, but I gave it a good tug to make it as tight as I was willing (I didn't want to break anything after all) and I haven't had any problems since I had also already downloaded a whole list of interesting things to print so I picked out the Wire clips to use up the rest of the filament (Picture 2- bottom). I didn't notice the warping as much on those ones, but the walls clearly had gaps in them. I wasn't able to find an explanation for that one on the internet, but haven't had that problem since I tightened the X Belt, so I assume that's all it was. The following day after work I pulled out the last of the starter filament and put on the roll I had bought with the Printer and printed my first Benchy (Pictures 3 and 4). While there are some clear defects in it I'm actually extremely happy that it turned out as well as it did (I'm a bit of a pessimist). Based on the Benchy, I re-leveled the bed again and have since been printing upgrades to my Ender 3 which have all been turning out extremely nice: I had 1 burr on a 1 screw hole and some very, very light stringing on one of the 10 pieces I've printed so far. ## Final Note of Significance Don't under estimate how long it takes to make a 3D print. Going into this I was of the opinion of "Well, **I'm** not doing any of the work, so it doesn't matter how long it takes", but there are two hang ups that I didn't really factor in. First, when you're excited to have something Printed you're inevitably more impatient to have it done. I'm a pretty patient person, but even for me I end up sitting at my desk glancing every 15 minutes to see how much longer it's going to be before I move onto the next piece. Second, smaller pieces may take significantly longer, depending on their shape and quantity. As an example, I'm currently printing the recommended Cable Chains for the Ender 3. After this review is done I'll take the mounting clips off the bed and then print the *Bottoms* of the Chain Links. Just looking at the Chain Links, they seem like they should be pretty small and that they should get done relatively fast. THEY WILL TAKE 11 STRAIGHT HOURS! There are 3 primary reasons for this: I need 25 of them; they have long, vertical extrusions; and they are thin. Because those extrusions are vertical, they get sliced into many layers instead of just a couple (if they were horizontally oriented). Because they are thin, the printer can't take a shortcut by just using an infill mesh on the inside. Finally, because it takes extra long because of those other two points, the quantity because a serious factor as well. And that's just the *Bottom* of the clips: I'll have to print the Top of them after that... ## Bottom Line Despite that last point, I still love this printer and look forward to continuing to use it for a long time in the future.

This was my first 3d printer that I decided to go with due to reviews and successful builds. I was excited to give it a try since I have been using laser and cnc machines for years, it seemed like the obvious next step. While many seem to have luck and positive things to say about this printer, I do not. I settled on this printer due to a bunch of research and forum surfing, to make sure I wasn’t going to buy some piece of garbage. While reviews are helpful, some don’t do things justice. Upon opening the printer and working through the parts, it seemed very straight forward and everything seemed to be of good quality. I had watched and read numerous sources for the assembly so it went quickly and was only a few steps. After getting everything set up, according to multiple sources and Creality, I was excited to get my first print going so I leveled the bed meticulously, got my settings all together, and went to test print a factory provided print. Nothing. Reset settings, trouble shooting from Creality, forum checking. Nothing. I spent two weeks trying to get this printer to work. Not one print the whole time. The printer would not recognize the z axis and would fail to print, even after bed leveling, pre heating and using factory prints. I even disassembled the unit and went through each step again to make sure I didn’t miss anything. Bubkis. I eventually gave up on it and returned it. I bought my runner up on my list of printers, the Flashforge 5m and had it assembled and printing in half an hour with no problems. 20+ prints later and still going. Don’t waste your time with this printer. Go with another brand and save yourself the headache. There are so many out there, I’m sure you will have better luck with a different system.

Not the fastest, but print quality is just fine inside a heated enclosure so cool air drafts don't mess up prints. Exactly as I expected after seeing my friend's more expensive version did better prints from inside an enclosure. I bought PLA and ABS filament, and the PLA is good without needing the enclosure, in a warm room, but an enclosure does help it do better. ABS requires a heated enclosure unless you live in a hot desert, as expected. Very reliable and easy to use. No clogging. Prints come out accurate, with a nice finish. Can't speak of durability this soon, but I would bet money that I will find it durable eventually.

Let me start off by saying that I am an educator and that I have been using 3D printers for the last four years. We wrote a grant at my school and purchased 2 printrbot simple metals and 4 printrbot metal plus printers. They range in price from $699 - $1100. I assembled two of them and they were very somewhat difficult. I ordered the Creality ender 3 to have something to mess around with at home and see if it would be something that I could really push to be used in the classroom because of the price difference. I have ran this printer really hard for about two weeks now and I am very impressed. The assembling was really easy. It took me a little over an hour. I watched a youtube video that made the whole process very easy. The quality of prints I am getting are just as good as the printrbot and it seems to be a little faster. I really like not having to use painters tape to get prints to stick to the print bed. I also love the option of being able to take the top layer of the print bed off and pop the prints loose. That is an awesome feature. The bed leveling was tricky at first but once I watched a video on it, it is not a problem. It is a little warped on one corner, but the prints still cover off very accurate. I do want to upgrade to the glass bed to see if that makes any difference, but I do not feel at this point it is a necessity. I will be talking to my administration soon to discuss purchasing several of these printers to have in our school. Thank you for making an affordable printer for everyone that gets the job done and has a pretty big print area.

Watch the third-party free YouTube on-line beginner videos BEFORE building. The included assembly sheet is VERY confusing … and I’m an engineer! The videos make good points about how extremely important it is to make sure the printer’s frame is absolutely square in all three dimensions. Just gradually tightening the bolts in a rotation (like when tightening the bolts/nuts on a vehicle wheel) isn’t good enough. The Z limit switch mounting bracket has a nub on the left front corner (looking from the front of the printer). Some videos say to clip it off (e.g., with diagonal wire cutters or heavy-duty shears), which is the only way that I could get to perform the bed “leveling” process. The process actually positions the bed parallel to the X-Y plane of the printer’s frame (left-to-right, and front-to-back). Some people mistakenly try to use a carpenter’s level to “level” the bed, but if the printer isn’t sitting on a perfectly level table/bench surface, and the bottom of the printer frame isn’t exactly parallel to the supporting table/bench surface (not likely), a carpenter’s level won’t be of any use. Threading the printing filament past the gripping feed rollers and into the white feed tube to the print head is very tricky. Some videos show that it helps to unscrew the brass fitting attached to the feed tube and get the filament to protrude out of the right side of the feed mechanism about an inch (25 mm), then screw the brass fitting back into the mechanism after pushing the fitting over the protruding filament. That makes it possible to get the filament into the feed tube - I couldn’t have accomplished that step without that hint. Getting the end of the filament into the hole beyond the gripping feed rollers was extremely frustrating, as the hole is impossible to see, even with bright lighting, as the hole passes through a black plastic housing behind the very close rollers. The menu items are somewhat different on my printer from any of the manual versions (included on the USB thumb drive, on the Creality.com site, elsewhere on-line, or what’s shown in the videos. I was able to guess that the Motion menu item was what had to be selected from the main menu in order to get to the Auto Home and Disable Steppers menu items, needed to perform the “leveling” steps. Once I had stumbled through the assembly sheet, then discovered the YouTube videos and done things right, printing was pretty straightforward using the built-in micro-SD card reader. I haven’t been able to scale a model down in the included Creality subset of the free, open-source Cura “slicing” software. The provided gcode files print just fine, but not the .stl files after scaling and saving as gcode files. The printer only displays and prints from gcode files that the slicing software generates from .stl (3D Object) files. I’m trying to resolve this issue via on-line searches and forums.

Excelente equipo. El ensamble es bastante intuitivo y con ayuda del manual lo llevas bien. Desde la primera impresión salió excelente.

I bought this printer as well as the Prusa Mini+. Surprisingly, this printer turns out to be easier to manage and comes up with better and nicer prints. The Prusa Mini+ had some initial teething problems - particularly pertaining to prints being dislodged as it was not sticking to the print plate. I used glue-stick and finally decided to use 90% IPA alcohol solutions, which eventually worked. During this time, the Creality became my most reliable 3D printer! This printer was certainly worth more than the price I had paid and I would recommend anyone who is interested in 3D printing to get one! I absolutely didn't regret making the jump - even though I heard horrible stories about support for this printer.

Cumpre seu papel! Ótima!

価格に比べて非常にクオリティが高いので満足です。梱包も完璧で開封時に何の心配もありませんでした。組み立てに必要な工具はすべて同梱されていました。テスト印刷用のフィラーも少しだけ同梱されていてありがたいです。 microSDカード（説明書とスライスソフト、ドライバ入り）がＵＳＢアダプタにセットされた状態で同梱されているので、同封されている紙の説明書ではなくまずはmicroSDの中のＰＤＦの説明書を読みましょう。こちらに組み立ての詳細説明が日本語で書かれています。 組み立てと調整が少し必要なので初心者よりは中級者向けなのかもしれません。テーブルのレベル調整の方法は説明書に詳しく書かれています。上部で平らな台の上で作業すると組み立て精度が出しやすいです。ベースのフレームはモータドライバとテーブルのスライドが組み立てられた状態で梱包されていますが、足部分の部品をいったん緩めて平らな台の上で締めなおすと良いです。結束バンドが同梱されていますが、ケーブル類のどの部分をどうやって固定するかは書かれていないですが工夫して固定しました。 スライスソフト（日本語対応）の設定項目はとても細かく、上級者でも様々な材料のための条件出しの研究が十分できます。印刷時の騒音はとても小さいです。自分で調整した設定はすべて名前を付けて登録できるのでとても便利です。スライスソフトからはgcodeが出力されます。設定でフレーバが選べるので他のプリンタ用にも使えると思います。Ender3はMarlinフレーバのようです。ソフトからはプリンタを選択するだけで必要な情報（機械の寸法情報、gcodeヘッダフッタなど）がすべて自動で入力されます。完全にカスタム値を入力することもできるのでプリンタを改造したり自作したものにも対応できそうです。私はマイクロＳＤカードにgcodeを保存してプリンタ正面のmicroSDスロットに挿入して、カードから印刷しています。 ステッピングモータの動作も滑らかで速いです。標準設定でＡＢＳ，ＰＬＡが問題なく印刷できました。ＴＰＵは少し調整が必要でしたが押し出し量１２０％に修正したら層間剥離なく密着されて良好な印刷ができました。印刷中にパネルでベッド・ホットエンド温度を変更できるのが便利です。

基本的にはマニュアル通りに組み立てればよいのですが、ケーブルなどの引き回しで試行錯誤する箇所があり少々悩みました。最終的には何度かやり直して組み立てることが出来ました。 もう一点困った点は、ステッピングモーターをステーに固定するブラケットが直角が出ていない事。 付属のブラケットを使用すると、Ｚ軸のボールねじが鉛直にならずモーターに不要な負荷がかかり、最悪脱調してしまいました。ブラケットを若干加工し、直角を出すとスムーズに動作しました。 また、付属のＳＤカードの耐久性が悪いようなので、到着したら内容をＰＣなどにコピーしておくと良いと思います。 総合的には、安価でそこそこの精度でプリントできたので、満足です。