Drill Doctor DD500X Twist Drill Bit Sharpener - 3/32" to 1/2" - Electric Sharpener - High Speed & Portable - For Steel, Masonry, Carbide & Tin-Coated Drill Bits - Adjustable 118° or 135° Angle

I love this product! I sharpened 12 drill bits in under 20 minutes and each bit sharpened perfectly like brand new! The Drill Doctor is so easy to use too! I read a few reviews, stating difficulty using it, noise was to loud, works good but difficult to operate. Bologna!!!! I'd give the Drill Doctor 10 Stars!!!!! Its quiet, no vibration, simple clean up and storage!!

I have been using this for several weeks. The pluses of the Drill Doctor 500X are the overall quality of the product. This is excellent. It works well allowing you to sharpen standard point, split point and masonry bits. The split point can be sharpened at 118 degrees or 135 degrees. The bits come out sharper than new. The only minus of the Drill Doctor 500X is it can be a bit confusing the first couple of times sharpening a bit. I found that there are several on line videos that are good to review. But once you get the hang of it this is a great tool I recommend it.

I bought this machine a few months ago. I've used it to sharpen quite a few bits, 50+ ranging from HSS to masonry. I will emphasize that you MUST read the instructions thoroughly, and watch the DVD as well. It is important to know how the tool works, and why you will ruin bits if you don't follow the instructions. To sharpen standard 118* bits couldn't be easier. This machine does an excellent job of it, and since I use most of my drill bits to drill in wood, this is the perfect angle for me. Split points can be ground on 118* bits, and I have done this with success. To sharpen masonry bits is also very easy, and the machine does an excellent job in this regard as well. Where it gets tricky, for me anyway, is in sharpening 135* split point bits. These days nearly all bits sold are this type and it's nice to be able to recreate the same angle and split point. While I have sharpened bits of this angle with success, I haven't been able to get perfect results all the time. Proper alignment is critical. Trying to adjust the relief angle seems to make proper sharpening more difficult and I would not recommend it to someone who just got his hands on this machine. The relief angle is adjusted by putting the chuck to either side of the 118* alignment slot (the + and - increase and decrease the angle). This is to allow a more aggressive or less aggressive cut. Fiddling with this adjustment seems to throw off the split point when it is being ground as well, taking off way too much material. If too much material is removed during the split point procedure, subsequent sharpening of the bit will not yield the same angle since the alignment fingers will not hold the bit from is flutes, but from the newly ground area behind the split point. It is hard to visualize this, the mistake must be made to understand it fully. Changing the diamond wheel is straight forward and easily done. The machine has a somewhat loud squeal when running, but it isn't too bad. I have sharpened broken bits with success, so that feature definitely works. Also, unless a bit really damaged during a botched sharpening attempt, it can most probably be sharpened to at least a 118* point again, though it will take a while and several alignment and sharpening procedures. I recommend the 100 grit wheel for when this must be done as it will take less time, and then a follow up can be done with the standard 180 grit wheel. The 750X has more features than just being able to accommodate larger bits, so in my opinion it is definitely worth it. I wish I had gotten that model instead, and I believe sharpening 135* and split points would be easier and faster. This is a quality product though, that I must say. **EDIT 7/26/08** After using my DD extensively during a project to sharpen a masonry bit, I noticed something that I hadn't observed earlier. When sharpening the bits according to the instructions, the machine does not put opposing angles on the tip of the bit. That is, it grinds both sides of the tip to an arrow point, and this is NOT conducive to easy drilling. In fact, I realize that I put unnecessary load on my drill using the "sharpened" bit. Perhaps experimenting with bit alignment might help, but that can just as easily ruin a bit you're trying to breath more life into. **EDIT 8/3/10** I am adding an edit to this review, mostly to address other reviews and comments about people needing to read and follow the instructions. On *MY* machine, only the 118* angle is indicated on the alignment port. There is NO mention of 135* angle, and this is why I had problems with aligning and sharpening 135* split point bits. After much experimentation and frustration, I finally got the 135* angle by inserting the chuck into the "-" slot, then putting the sharpening port at 135*. I don't know if my machine had a quality control issue, or if all the DD500X units are like this. To split the point on 118* or 135* bits, you need to align the bit at 118* regardless of the angle you sharpened the bit to. In splitting the point, it must be done carefully to avoid under-splitting because if that happens, the bit will NOT cut. For 135* bits, if the point isn't split, it really won't cut unless you're drilling into a very soft material like plastic or wood. A long review for certain, and a good machine, but not without faults. After owning my machine for a couple of years and using it extensively I feel my four star review of "very good but not excellent" is fully justified.

This is my second Drill Doctor. They are fantastic sharpeners. The first one was a DD 250. It is still in use after 25 years. I have sharpened maybe 300 or more drill bits with it. It still has the original stone. I received my new DD 500 yesterday. It is basically the same machine but, upgraded, and can sharpen masonry, and split point bits. Sharpened about 20 steel bits in about 20 minutes or so. Also, tried sharpening masonry bits. Takes a little getting used to but, after a couple of tries it worked great. On the masonry bits I would recommend starting with a bit about 1/4" or so until you get the hang of it before you try any smaller ones. They are a little harder to sharpen. I sharpened bits down to 1/8". I would recommend this sharpener to anyone looking for drill bit sharpener. They are very well-built and easy to use machines. Just follow the directions, and you will do fine.

Excellent tool. Had a project working on an car exhaust drilling through some really hard stuff with solid carbide drills. This sharpener did an amazing job sharpening those. I was really surprised just at how sharp it made them.

Just received this today and very pleased with this purchase. Despite some other reviewers comments, the instruction manual is comprehensive, easy to understand and fully explains the operation of the Drill Doctor. I had no trouble setting up for 118 or 135 degree point angles. I resharpened some 34 drill bits from 3/32" to 1/2" that were blunt and changed one from 118 degrees to 135 with a split point. It took about 1 hour and 15 mins in total. After, they all were sharp, exactly to specification and cut through wood and steel like they were brand new. The 135 deg split point drill bit I cut (5/16") produced the perfect Curly Q's as shown in the photo, when cutting through a 1/4" mild steel bar with my drill press. I've always tried to hand grind my drills or bought new. While they were fairly sharp and drilled OK after my hand grinding, they certainly looked hand-ground and weren't like a new drill bit with a well-defined chisel edge, relief angle, even cutting edges and a perfect point angle. With a couple minutes work in the Drill Doctor, I have perfect bits. Points to note: - The 135 deg point angle setting is the one notch to the right of the 12 o'clock positioned 118 degree notch in the alignment port. The other 10 deg notches are to fine tune the chisel edge and relief angles, which 99 times out of a 100, you won't need to adjust. - Make sure the spring steel jaws in the alignment port snap into the drill at its narrowest point across the width of the flutes. Rotate the drill bit as required to make this happen. This ensures the correct angular position of the bit in the chuck for grinding. - After finger snugging the bit in the chuck in the alignment port, remove it and hand tighten. That way the drill doesn't move from its perfect alignment for grinding. - Keep rotating the chuck in the grinding port with light pressure down and keeping the chuck against the cam pin, grinding until the grinding sounds stop occurring. The bit at that point is fully ground. - Eventually the grinding wheel will wear down. You can remove it and turn it around to get another 100 or so drills sharpened before having to replace the wheel for about $20. After doing all my 34 drills, I could feel that the roughness of the grinding wheel was less that the other unused end, but it was still easily capable of grinding bits. - Grinding dust does spill out onto the bench through the gaps around the transparent cover under the grinding wheel. After all my bits, I had a tiny heap on the table, with more inside the machine. I cleaned the Drill Doctor before putting it away, per the instructions. - Don't mash the bit into wheel, especially for making the split point. Treat it gently and pulse it until the sound stops. I've now got a way to have sharp drill whenever I need them. I always had to make do or go buy yet another drill bit. The Drill Doctor is not a cheap tool, but it is well-made and sturdy. Once you have it, you can really appreciate its value. No regrets at all. I will never need to buy bits again until I've worm them down to an unusable length and by then, that will have paid back the cost of the Drill Doctor many times over!

As a retired Tool and Die maker I missed access to the great machinery I used to use to make things, so I got a small shop going in my basement with a lathe, mini mill, drill press, etc. At work we had a beautiful Black Diamond drill bit sharpener the size of a kitchen stove which really spoiled me. As my drill bits got dull with use I really missed the sharpener and decided to try the much vaunted Drill Doctor. I gave you the preliminary stuff here so you would know my background on this. I expected poor results from this small machine. I was surprised. Very easy to learn but its method of operation is somewhat similar to the fantastic tool I used for decades at work so my learning curve was probably faster than someone who is not a machinist or toolmaker. Still, the instructions were clear and frankly if you are using your drill bits enough for them to require sharpening I assume you have your wits about you. Admittedly the bits came out looking a bit sorry...not like the professional machine at all. There are and will be scratches and gouges on the ground surface (by easing up on the pressure you apply for the last few revolutions of the bit you can minimize this but it will still be present). But I am a results oriented guy. The purpose of a drill bit for me is to drill a reasonably accurate non wandering hole in a piece of metal. The somewhat sorry looking bits worked perfectly! I was impressed. IT DID WHAT IT WAS SUPPOSED TO. I have read reviews here where people complain of the finish of the sharpened surface, they are correct BUT was the formerly dull and useless bit now sharp and useful? Yes it was. Don't lose sight of the big picture....no one wants to be in the middle of a job where you need to tap or ream a hole and you find your bit is dull or the tip broken off and the last thing you want to do is go to the store, if its open, to buy another bit only to find they are out of stock on that size and besides that the bits they have are cheap imported junk. I have gone through my entire fractional, letter, and number bits and sharpened the dull ones with this Drill Doctor without any regrets. It will not do the tiny sizes since they wont fit in the holder, but those tiny sizes I keep several on hand since they dull fast and break faster! Has held up well so far, If this tool is ever lost or destroyed I certainly would buy another, probably the same model.

Works fine. Instructions are a little cloudy but figured it out. Sharpened 50 bits so far. Conversion from 118 to 135 not explained well. How to adjust angle on machine is strange. Mechanical adustment seems loose not sure when its in the correct position. Alignment marks not well explained. Degree shows up in small port alignment has lot of slack up and down until sucured. Bit holder insertion for 135 says insert right of 118 mark. There are multiple slots. I finally figured that the last slot right of 118 mark is 135.

Parfait attention c est en 110 v

I had a Drill Doctor 350 which was ok but it could only sharpen an angle of 118. I drill a lot of metal and 135 is a better angle for this material. I upgraded to the 500 and WOW am I ever impressed. The 500 can sharpen both angles and do it well. There’s not big learning curve either. There’s a video on using it as well as a pretty good manual included. I honestly don’t think I’ll ever need to any new bits for quite some time.

Handig en snel

取説はインターネットから見て使用しています。 やや分かりにくいところはありましたが 何とか使えています。 一切鉄板が切れなかったドリルが見違えるように切れるようになります。

Carefull i blew it up with 220v . My fault but i was not able to test it.