Intertape Flat Back Paper Double Sided/Stick Tape for Woodworking 1" x 36 yds

I bought this tape for inlay purposes but quickly discovered that it has hundreds of other uses in the shop. I find myself laughing because almost every time I run into a problem with holding something in place, this tape is the answer. Today I used it to hold a work piece to a sacrificial piece of wood for routing and to hold a stop board clamped to my router table fence from slipping. Yesterday, I used it for holding cauls in place while I applied clamps to a glue-up of a tool box carcass. I think I have used it at least once every day this week.The tape holds wood pieces together very securely. You may need a thin putty knife to pry them apart. The adhesive strength is a perfect balance between holding securely and being able to separate the parts later.I will never be without this tape in my shop again! I highly recommend this to anyone who works with wood even if you don't have a particular need for it now. Believe me, you'll find a multitude of uses.

I was nervous about using double sided tape to reverse mount a turning, but decided to try it. I've been turning for over 15 years - mainly green wood bowls and small hollow forms and some spindle (end grain) work. The bowls I reverse to hollow using a turned tenon for a jaw chuck, then re-reverse on a jam chuck to clear away the tenon. The small hollow forms (Ellsworth style "spirit forms") I've left an excess flat and used CA glue to hold it to a wooden scrap block which I turn away when finished hollowing.This time I had a new project, I'd been given some lovely boards of exotic wood so decided to try turning plates. My first try (after deciding I needed to use double sided tape as I didn't have the depth of wood to waste on a tenon) was an 8" diameter plate.Pardon the detail, but this review is for wood turners.I mounted the roughly rounded (on the band saw) work piece on a face plate with short screws (for my natural bowls I use a Glazer screw chuck as the 3/4" hole will be hollowed away). I shaped the outside and trued the base. I then brought up the tail stock and made a tiny pin hole dent in the base at dead center. I removed the work piece from the lathe and unscrewed the face plate, I then put the Peachtree tape on the face plate and trimmed it - then, using a centering device (a plug that fits in the center of a chuck or face plate - in my case a 1" x 8 tpi lathe and has a pin to make a hole) I pressed the face plate to the base. BTW, that centering device has been sitting unused in my drawer for years, finally I found a use for it - not to make a hole but to find the tiny hole I'd made while the piece was still center on the lathe.OK, I've rambled on, but for a reason. The advice I'd seen was to "set" the connection of the tape before turning by mounting the work piece on the lathe then bringing up the tail stock with a dead center to apply pressure for at least an hour. I went a step further, I put a pin/cup center in the tail stock to apply the pressure.I tried turning on the lathe after an hour of setting - with the tail stock still in place. I was amazed, the centering was so perfect that the turned outside of the plate needed no more than a very minor shear scraping to bring it to perfect round in the new mounting. As I still didn't trust the tape I hollowed and shaped the inside of the plate with the tail stock still in place, leaving a center column holding the workpiece to the tape joint. Once I had the internal shape approximately what I wanted I had to get rid of the tail stock to finish it, that was the time when the effectiveness of the tape would tell. I cut away the center column with a lot of nervousness - my shop is in my bedroom and I didn't want to send the piece flying.Oops, forgot to tell you the speeds and sizes. I was turning an 8" diameter, 1 3/4" depth, plate from hardwood using a 3" diameter face plate for the tape joint. Not only was I able to turn away the center column using only the tape grip on the face plate, I was also able to reshape the rim and bottom and the transition using gouges and scrapers at 1000 rpm. I was amazed and happy.The only other review I've seen from a wood turner says this tape doesn't hold (forgotten his name and don't want to risk losing this text by looking for it). He found foam tape better. With all due respect for a fellow turner I suggest that he may not have given the tape the time to set under pressure. The problem with foam tape for turning is that its thickness and flexibility allows the work piece to move a bit horizontally with the pressure of the tool - a bit of "random run out".I would not use this tape, or any tape, for a deep bowl - the total weight that is spinning increases not only with the diameter but also the depth. If the bowl is deep then you have plenty of wood to make a tenon and grip it it jaws - then turn away the tenon. I intend to try the tape for small diameter deep bowls and also for my small hollow forms (first attempt will not be with my best wood <g>).

I used this tape to hold down pieces on a CNC router. Got good results and the cost per roll is better than I have been paying for similar tapes. Note, at quantity of 6 rolls, the shipping was free. I do recommend.

Works very well for taping boards together for CNC routers. I frequently use it to attach wood to a sacrificial piece of MDF underneath. Also has good adhesion for woodturning on a lathe.

I used this to attach rice paper to kumiko lattice work. I chose it over traditional rice paste because the pieces of wood are so narrow I was afraid of "slopping" paste onto the paper. The tape adhered beautifully and stayed in place while I trimmed it to width while on the kumiko. The tape held fast while I pulled off the protective paper off the tape. I applied the paper onto the back of the kumiko and voila! Held fast, no movement of paper or tape! Can't say enough good things about this product. Absolute price performer because a little goes a long way, especially when used on kumiko lattice!

Cons: it leaves a residue even after less than 20 minutes of being left on. The residue is horrible to get off and messes with any project you’re working onpros: great adhesion, thin.

We had tried a number of different solutions to keep boards and templates together when routing the finished piece to the template. This tape is the only one we found that worked well. Other tapes didn't hold firmly or had too much "give" in their hold. Hot glue tore off some of the finished piece's surface. This tape is great and didn't have any of the problems.

Holds great, actually comes off without wanting to kill yourself.