8916 MOPAR 4.7, 5.7, 6.1 Liter Hemi V8 Header Bolt Kit - 8mm 1.25x25mm Bolts 6 Point DHH - Set of 17 pieces

Really nice hardware. The design makes them a bit difficult to install on tubular headers but it works good. On my JBA shorty headers for my Ram there was one set of lock and clips I could not install due to the primary that loops up and back towards the cat. But that is not the fault of the hardware moreover the design of the headers. Hopefully it doesnt leak. These are 11mm heads on the bolts so make sure you have a 11mm wrench. Also if you're installing shorty headers, 1/4 inch universal joint socket adapter and an assortment of extensions will save you a lot of curse words when getting the threads started.

Ordered these from my 2016 RAM. I installed BBK headers, and as the BBK header bolts are crap. These keep your chrome ceramic coated beauties in place without having to re-torque your header bolts every month! Avoid the pain, get these for your after market header install. A+ product as promised, A+ seller. THANKS!

2016 SRT 392 Challenger. I've used these before with mixed results. They do work. Here is what you need to do to be successful. When you've installed them, do not put the locking tabs and E clips on right after. Go start your vehicle and let it run long enough to get to normal operating temperature. Let it cool and repeat. Listen for exhaust leaks each time. If you hear a tick sound on either engine bank then you have a leak. Tighten the bolts once cooled. Repeat the process until all leaks are eliminated.After that process put your locking tabs and clips on. Even though the stage 8 bolts can fit an Allen wrench to further tighten with tab and clips on, you will not be able to do that as the Allen wrench will slip and strip it out and you'll have to use an 11 mm wrench after that anyway. Also the tabs are tough to get to stay in place while putting the clips on, and some of the clips are almost impossible to get back off and the back on. Follow these steps and save yourself some heartache.Another tip for Challenger/Charger owners: you'll never get a torque wrench on all of these. Tighten with care. You can snap off the stage 8 bolt head by over tightening. Aluminum heads with stainless bolts can be dangerous. That is why you tighten, recheck for leaks, then put the tabs and clips on. It's a pain of a process, but so is removing the cylinder head if you snap bolts off in it.

I installed shorty headers and the clearance was very small, these worked great being able to tighten down in the small clearance.

Anyone with the Hemi engine knows that over time the aluminum heads don't play well with the cast iron exhaust manifolds. The hardware becomes fatigued to failure and the gaskets then leak. You now have the infamous "Hemi tick". When considering what hardware to repair your Hemi with, I highly recommend the Stage-8 kit. It won't make installation easier, but if you have the right tools, it will give you piece of mind that your hardware won't back out and leak again. Finish is second to none.

Contained some spare "E" clips, since it is impossible to install these without loosing a few.As expected quality, no exhaust leaks. Good vendor.Packaging was bad. The package opened, and the bolts and clips were loose in the shipping envelope which also had a hole. All in all, I still received a few extra clips and all the bolts.

The only negative I can come up with is the cost of this product is a little high but as stated I received all 17 pieces of each. A total of 51 pieces altogether.

Order two if you want to get enough bolts to do the job. Package breaks open before it will get to you and at least one bolt will be lost. I ended up ordering 3, but one never arrived, I guess the driver saw the bolts falling out and just took it back to the warehouse. AND WAREHOUSE WORKERS CANT COUNT, YOU NEED 17 AND I ONLY GOT 9 IN THE WAREHOUSE "LIKE NEW".Now the bolts themselves are great so far. Coated them with antisieze and they fit in all but two of the holes on my new shorty headers. One I was able to slot the hole and get it to fit, the other side I had to use a normal fastener due to head clearance problems. The heads on these are thicker. The hex hole in the middle saved my bacon on one, I was able to get enough torque thru the Allen key to seal it up.So, bottom holes were slotted on my headers, so I put the gasket on with the bottom bolts loosely, muscled the header in there with a pry bar on the y-pipe to make space, and monkeyed the rest of the fasteners in. Passenger side first, took me four times in and out to get all the bolts in due to the head clearance issue on 3rd one back on the top. Drivers side went smoother actually in spite of the reduced clearance, but I removed the steering knuckle and dip stick tube. Had to slot the second one back on the top to get the bolt in, so in and out twice.Torqued the bolts, fired it up and let it run while I checked for leaks, and then I shut it off and let it cool and retorqued everything.The keepers were way easier to install than I imagined, I was dreading it. Only took 30min per side, missed 2 due to head clearance, one I managed to clip into a 3/4 circle and get on. Used a good pair of long knipex needle nose pliers.Time will tell, but these looked way better than the bolts that came with my headers, and even though I had to get two packs and return one, it worked out ok in the end. I don't anticipate that they will rust, keeper should keep torque, but hopefully no breakage.