JERDONTwo-Sided Wall-Mounted Makeup Mirror with 7X-1X Magnification – 8” Diameter Mirror with Scissor Bracket Extends Up to 20” and Swivels Left and Right – Polished Chrome Finish - Model JP2027C

The first picture shows the mirror as installed at the edge of the door frame of the entry door to my bathroom. In its default position as shown, it is merely a very conveniently located, 7x, make-up or shaving mirror. But rotated away from the wall, and with the "accordion extension" extended, it becomes a way to see all sides of you. In the second to fourth pictures, respectively, I peek at the reflections of my left ear, back of my head, and right ear in the mirror above the vanity using the Jerdon. In the fifth picture, I peek at the reflection of the back of my head to the back of my shoes in the full-length mirror on the door (with changes in the angle that the mirror makes with the floor). Yes, you could do the same thing with a hand mirror, but you do not have to search for the screwed-down Jerdon, and using the Jerdon leaves both hand free to make changes to what you are seeing.Okay, so far for exciting ways you can use the mirror. Next some words on getting the mirror properly installed and operational. First, in assembly the mirror needs to be screwed on the rod at the end of the accordion. In the "nut" on the mirror where the rod screws in is a *tiny* set screw . This must be out enough to screw the rod in, but not so far out that it falls out; you are never going to find it back. To prevent the mirror from vibrating free and falling off (a frequent complaint in the reviews), you need to put a bit of threadlocker, say "titen", on the end of the thread of the rod. I used Locktite red (permanent); then the mirror *will not ever* fall off, but there is also no way I know to take apart the mirror without melting the plastic bushings and probably oxidize the metal. Instead of trying, you would be far better off to buy a new mirror, trust me.Further, there is a "knurled nut" on the rod that allows you to adjust the resistance that the mirror has against rotating around the rod axis. This nut should be all the way back when you screw in the rod. However, next come back half a turn or so on the rod, so that the knurled nut has a slight bit of moving space and you can use it to adjust tension. (Whether the nut retains its tension depends on which direction you rotate the mirror around its vertical axis.) The threadlocker should make the tiny set screw in the mirror nut redundant, but I screwed it in anyway, after putting a *tiny* amount of threadlocker on its thread with the point of a toothpick. It can't hurt and I rather not have a small hole there.For something that may extend as far away from the wall as this mirror might, I would be very hesitant to attach the thing to drywall by any other way than screw it into a stud (like no way in hell I would). Google "Lift the World". And my handyman thought the provided 1-1/4 inch stainless screws were "flimsy", *even* for screwing into a wood stud instead of in stupid plastic anchors. At Lowe's, the gifted guy discovered "Hillman #9 x 1-1/2-in Silver Nickel Plated Flat Interior/Exterior Wood Screws". We would have prefered the 2 inch length, but the local Lowe's was out. Even so, the 1.5 inch Hillman screws are (1) slightly longer than the ones that came with the mirror; (2) far more substantial; and (3) look a lot better since they are nickel like my JP2027N mirror and have a bigger head that fits better. (For the chrome version, you might want to look for 2 inch #9 stainless wood screws.)As shown in the first picture, we installed the mirror at the edge of a door frame. According to my handyman, many door frames, including this one of mine, have a stud that extends about an inch away from the edge of the door frame. Note that this is very marginal, as half the mounting bracket width takes already 3/4 of this 1 inch distance. If you want to be safe, screw a wood strip to the stud and then screw the mirror mounting bracket to that strip. But I took the risk and we screwed directly into the stud. I think it looks simpler, hence better. (First I did hammer a very thin "finishing nail" into the wall, its hole eventually to be hidden by the mounting bracket, to test that indeed the wood extended at least somewhat beyond the needed 3/4 inch. Google the various ways to locate studs if you are not familiar with these things. Or much better, consult someone who is. I wish the mounting bracket was 1 inch wide instead of 1.5 inch, but for the $25 I paid, I cannot be picky.)One potential problem is that the mirror has very little resistance against rotating around the rod on the wall bracket. That then means that if this rod is not perfectly vertical, the mirror will not stay put in the position you put it. The mirror in my main bathroom is not perfectly vertical; the wall leans slightly forward and we installed the wall bracket with a slight tilt to the left in picture 1. So the mirror would prefer to hang somewhere above the middle of the vanity. However, in my case the deviations from vertical are not enough to affect function, as pictures 1 to 5 show. It is only at very long extensions that the mirror really starts refusing to stay where I put it. If yours needs correction, my handyman suggests glueing a little block of rubber or so, like a clear plastic bumper, to the wall bracket, so that it rubs against the bottom sleeve of the accordion that goes around the rod. Also, I found that the ugly trick of poking a wood toothpick in the holes of the plastic bushings can temporarily keep the thing from rotating. The wall in the guest bathroom is vertical, and the mirror there stays put everywhere despite a small installation deviation. The bottom line is that you want to install the wall bracket so that the rod is as vertical as possible.The height we installed the mirror in the main bathroom is such that the accordion part can pass just above my head. For the guest bathroom, we installed it rather low, as it is easier for a tall person to hunker down a bit than for a shorter person to stand on her toes or on something else.Next problem: it takes quite a bit of force, (an insane amount if you want me to put it more clearly), to extend the accordion, especially if you want to extend it to the max (refrain from trying or do not blame me for what happens). (Definitely another reason you want to install the mirror in a stud.) The ideal way to fix this would presumably to remove the rivets holding the accordion together, and install new ones with suitable washers between the legs. But that is beyond me. As an alternative, some lubricant is indicated. So I covered the extended accordion, and the long rods holding its ends, in "vaseline" (petroleum jelly). Then I worked the vaseline more deeply into the joints by repeatedly extending and compressing the accordion. Finally, with the accordion fully collapsed, I wiped off all vaseline still showing (except for that on the pins; that needs to stay). So in the default position, no vaseline is exposed. The remaining vaseline works, so far, really great for making extending and collapsing the accordion much easier.(Everyone's favorite, the original WD-40, is not recommended as it is not a real lubricant and will gum up over time. You may think that a real lubricant should be used, like white lithium grease or, maybe, silicone grease. But note that the lubricant is exposed when the accordion is extended. So you want something clear rather than white. And you want something that is free from nasty chemicals that someone may be allergic to. Like, how about the chain oil lubricant suggested by my handyman, which according to the Amazon reviews, in newly revised formulation stinks insufferably like petroleum? On the other hand, people put vaseline *on their lips*. And vaseline helps protect against rust; as a kid, I covered my ice skates with a thick layer of vaseline between winters to prevent them from rusting. That is of interest for the Jerdon mirror, because the "Care and Cleaning" instructions note: "Do not submerge mirror in water or use extensive amounts of water for cleaning purposes." I assume the real message is here that if water gets at the contact area between different metals, like the accordion arms and the rivets, or the arms and their nickel coating, over time it is bound to produce rust.)As pictures 1 and 6 show, I glued a small strip of velcro as a small white "handle" to the bottom point of the accordion that you want to pull at. I cut the strip from a white "industrial strength" velcro 1-7/8 inch circle. For the mirror in the guest bathroom, I also added a little notification arrow, made by cutting off the zip tie of a "Mr-Label 4-3/8 inch Nylon Cable Zip Ties Tags Labels Marker". It is somewhat tricky to glue this to the accordion at the right place. I ended up first glueing the arrow to the ring cut from the screw-down end of an electrical wire end, and then that ring to the accordion. I don't know how long it is going to last. Fortunately, the arrow is made from nylon instead of effectively unglueable polyethylene or polypropylene. Unfortunately I did not put it on quite straight; I will try again when a guest breaks it off.Update Dec/29/22: I was thinking that in due time, I would have to redo the vaseline, but after over 1 1/2 years it is moving as easily as ever, and I do not see any visible dirt in it. Works even better than I expected. And yes, a guest broke off the arrow, and no, I am not going to replace it. They will just have to figure it out. :)

The mirror is attractive & is sturdy. We use it daily & have had no issues with its performance or the quality.

I bought this for my girlfriend for Christmas. Out of the box, I realized it is a little cheaply made. The mirror is threaded onto the vertical rod and will loosen up if you turn the mirror counter clockwise. The screws on either side of the mirror will loosen up when you flip the mirror from normal to magnified side. It's not that big of a deal as long as you remember to re-tighten the screws from time to time. The mirror comes with drywall anchors and screws for mounting. Mounting the mirror was very simple; all you really need is a drill and a way to make sure the mirror is vertically level (I used a small leveling bubble). If you don't have a level, you can download a free app on your smart phone, or use a calibrated eyeball. So far the mirror is stable and working well. I'm not expecting this mirror to last through next Christmas, but at <$40, I can buy her another. My girlfriend loves the mirror and has found it to be very helpful. Now she doesn't have to lean over the bathroom counter to get a close view while applying make-up. I would give it 5 stars if it was made with sturdier materials.**Update**It's been a year and a half and the mirror is still good as new. I'm surprised it held together this long. I guess it's better than I originally thought.

Moves well and installs easily. They even provide sheet rock anchors to attach it where you don't have a studd.

I bought this for my wife, she was reluctant to have a mirror, but loves this mirror and uses it frequently. I actually thought she would want a lighted one, but this one has worked out great. The biggest feature was that is extends from the wall to the almost the edge of the vanity, I think other mirrors will be short and then you would need to hunch over to use it. The installation was easy, I found and stud and did not use the plastic wall inserts. The quality seems pretty good, it may be a little cumbersome to extend and retract but she can just swing it out of the way so this works well for our application.Tip: When we stayed at a hotel last few times I specifically had her critique the mirrors for magnification and lighting. She preferred the 5X or 7x(this one is 7X) was over the 10X, and did not really care about the light.

Positive: True reflection, no distortion in mirror. Solidly made, nice long extention. Very nice chrome material except:Negative: Chrome pin that holds mirror to arm started rusting within 3 months- the picture is at 6 months. Extending arm is quite stiff, and feel like I have to hold on to the bracket as I extend arm so I don't rip it from wall (drywall). Also, Mirror is too loose in it's arm, so that it does not stay in 90 degree horizontal position, nor does it stay in position that I need, it reverts back to the position on picture. Would be nice if there was a tightening screw to keep it in position, or was as stiff as the zig zag arm bracket, which most likely would hold mirror in place.