ZH006 LED Light Bar 20 Inch 126W Spot Flood Combo Led Off Road Lights with 16AWG Wiring Harness Kit-One Lead, 2 Years Warranty

I purchased 2 of these 20" light bars for my John Deere 2305 tractor, one with the wiring harness, and one without. I mounted them on the top of the roll bar, so that the loader bucket and rear implements would not block the light. During the winter months, most of my snow removal has to be done after dark, so these will be a great help and improvement over the stock lights. The battery connection wire on the provided harness was too short, so I made a longer one from 16ga, and ran it from the battery up underneath the driver seat, where I connected it to the provided harness with crimp connectors and shrink tape(had to cut off the stock battery ring connectors). From there, the provided harness worked great. I mounted the relay underneath the back fender where there were a lot of other factory wires sitting. The switch wire was plenty long to reach up to the dash, and I happened to have a blank spot in the dash that was perfect to mount the switch. I made a wooden bracket so that I could mount the lights back to back on top of the roll bar, one facing forward, and the other backward. The block is mounted with 5/16" carriage bolts through the factory drilled holes in the top of the roll bar. I covered the harness and wiring through the engine compartment with plastic wire protector tubing, and secured it all with zip ties. I am very happy with the brightness, and the adjustable mounting brackets are great for lining everything up. Build quality seems very good and solid. Hopefully these lights can survive the freezing -40F cold and wet job of blowing snow this winter!

So far love the brightness, quality, and ease of install. I bought 2 lights kits to install on my utility tractor for winter snow removal front and rear visibility. I bought the light kit that included the wiring harness as it was the most cost effective and I was running both separately. Product notes say you can connect 2 lights to one harness, which is true, but those would have to be installed within 3 feet, which was not my case. So 2 lights can run on one harness, but know they need to be installed close to each other. I cut off the extra connectors and sealed to waterproof the wires. I bought a mount kit for the front. I needed to add longer screws to clamp to my front guard . I did not want to drill through the front steel guard at this time. May do that in future. The rear was mounted on the rollover frame and the holes I used were already factory made, so that was easy. The mounts on the light are adjustable and slide the full length of the light body. I ran the wire down the outside and secured with special outdoor zipties. The switches included on the harness are waterproof and light up when on, which is great addition! Once I drilled a hole in the plastic dash the switches snapped into the opening securely. Use a tapered bit as you can test the hole size as you go!! The switch had a quick connector so once that just fit through the hole I know the switch would lock in securely. Install was easy and has inline fuse built into the harness. All parts needed to connect are included, even extra fuses and connectors. I used heat shrink to seal all connections since they would be exposed to water and snow. Also, since I mounted the light upside down, I seals with caulk the area where the wire enters the light body, just to be sure. I recommend these to add a bright light to any application!

Got it today 08/15/25 and is hooked up and works great, the brackets are a little tricky and the wiring harness could be a little bit longer for the switch but so far it's bright and seems good although one huge con is that it creates a very loud teapot like squeal that's very annoying, will try to adjust positions and see if it goes away

I installed this light bar and wire harness on my 2016 Jeep Wrangler. It mounted perfectly on top of the bull-bar brackets on EAG front bumper. The light is very bright, and the harness is well made. The install wound up taking me about three hours but would have only taken one hour for a smarter man. See the story below for a detailed description of my dumbassary. The Story Below: Getting the bar out of the way first…. Pretty simple---I just put on the mounting brackets like they appear they should be put on. Then, I set the brackets 12” apart (6” from center point of the bar) and the bolts slid right into the bracket points on my bull-bar. Easiest part of the whole install. The only even minor issue is that they supplied three extra washers and an extra screw which caused me to wonder if I’d missed something. I drove it around over some bumps and such to see if I could shake it loose but it held in place pretty well. I didn’t hook up the harness until I could set aside some time to do so. Good thing that! It took me a lot longer than I’d anticipated. I’ll start from the relay. I pinned the tab down on the insulation keeper post in the top PS corner of the engine compartment, and zip tied it to the existing harness for added stability. From there I made three ‘runs’ ; Battery, Switch, and Light-bar. I’ll tell you about them in order of increasing difficulty. Battery- Yeah, just put the red on the red and the black on the black. Switch- This leg of the harness has an inline connector and a toggle switch at the end. Starting from the relay, I ran it behind the existing harness using two zip-ties so that the connector winds up close to the DS corner on the other side of the engine compartment. I pulled the a-pillar inside cover and the DS dash end-cover off and ran the wire through a hole I found that let me snake the wire through the void under the hood cowling. This hole was filled with insulating foam, but I shoved a wire hanger through it and drug the harness (spade connectors attached) back from the engine compartment side into the cabin. I drilled a ¾” hole in the a-pillar panel---pushed in the toggle button, replaced all the panels and then went back to the engine side to zip-tie the harness to the existing harness and reconnect the connector. Weirdly, there was exactly enough wire to do this---makes me wonder if Nilight didn’t have this exact install in mind. Light-Bar- I just snaked this along the top edge of the PS side, and under the fuse box mounting bracket. Then, I undid the grill to get access so I could drop down to the existing fog light harness that goes to the bumper. I’m putting zip ties all along here about every foot or so---just to keep things tidy. The harness has two light connector branches and since I only needed one, I used electrical tape to seal up the first one, taping it to the harness for safe keeping. Now, THE FUN PART! – When I mounted the light, I drilled a hole in the bull-bar just under the DS mounting bracket. Since this bar is welded through the bumper, it’s open at the underside. “I can just snake the wires through that.” I thought. It’s like trying to shove a noodle through a straw! I abandoned the “shove it through” approach, then I abandoned the “pull it through with a coat hanger wire” approach and came up with the “hook-up-a-shop-vac-to-the-lower-end-and-suck-a-length-of- paracord-through-the-hole” approach. This worked so well that the first time I tried it, it snatched four feet of paracord out of my hand before I could kill the shop vac. I cut the spade connectors off and was then able to drag the connector wires up and out of the hole under the bracket. I connected them to the light with some of those melty solder butt-joint connectors, then slipped that back through the hole in the bull bar and sealed it up with some silicone sealer. I’d tested the harness and even hooked everything up to the light, so I knew it was good at that point, but when I flipped the switch---no joy. I checked all the connections, then realized there was an in-line 15 amp fuse…Yup---blown. I replaced it and blew it again just to make sure. I looked all along the runs for places I might have shorted it and was about to pull the A-pillar panels when I remembered that extra light connector I had taped up. Sure enough, I didn’t cut off the spade connectors there and had taped them together on the harness---creating a very solid and efficient short-circuit. Fixing this took about another half hour, but then It worked great. I’m not sure how many Lumens are generated by the Nilight - ZH006. It claims 126 W using 42 3W LEDs. I drove it out to a local area with an open field and totally ruined the circadian rhythms of about fifty Whitetails. It’s like driving around with a small sun on your bumper, in fact---if I ever accidentally shined this in another drivers eyes, I think an assault charge would be in order and I’d plead guilty with no contest. Nilight 20-Inch 126W Spot Flood Combo Offroad LED Light Bar & Wiring H – Nilight Led Light

Alumbran muy bien

Great product and easy to install. Would be nice if there was prions for mounting. Excellent clear light for night riding.

Excelente producto, llego antes de la fecha. Ilumina súper lo instale en una burrera y lo mejor que viene con el kit de instalación.

nice and bright!

Buena luminosidad