Pond Armor SKU-SBLUE-TU Pond Shield Sky Blue Touch Up Kit Non-Toxic epoxy Coating

I dropped chlorine in our stock tank a year ago and had large rusty spots to deal with as we got the pool ready for spring. I watched tons of videos and read reviews, here's what worked for me:1. Two 1.5 liter sets of pond shield for coverage of the inside of an 8' round stock tank2. Primed inside of the tank with about 6 cans of Rustoleum filler primer3. I did the sides first, both coats, about 2 hours apart. Sides took one full kit. Each kit comes with 4 cups of part A and 2 cups of part B; the ratio needed for each mix is 2A to 1B. I tried a mini roller and a full-sized roller and preferred the mini because of the indentations around the sides of the tank.4. Temp matters. I did the first coat at 1pm and second coat at 3pm on a sunny 75*, low humidity day and the second coat got tacky much faster. The alcohol thinning step says optional but is NOT optional IMHO.5. For the bottom I did the "smooth" application - one coat, spread with a squeegee and finished with a large roller on a handle. Because my tank wasn't level in the grass I did some panicking but it worked out fine. I wore medical gloves doubled up and used my finger to really get in the corners and center seam.6. I reserved some of the second batch (the bottom) for touchups, and I'm glad I did because some bubbles formed and you could see primer. My ratio for the bottom was about 3.5 c A to 1.75c B and 1/8 c. 91% rubbing alcohol, spread with squeegee in one coat. The remainder mixed perfectly for touchups a few hours later.7. Acetone is absolutely required for cleanup. If you move quickly, you can remove from paintbrushes and the sqeegee but the rollers are trash. I left one roller cover on too long and had to toss the roller handle and all.***EDIT: a few months of use and it's holding up great. One thing I would do differently. As the epoxy started to cure, I hurriedly applied it to a few spots, including the seam down the middle and some areas that needed a touchup. Apparently that process of beginning to cure had changed the product, and I have yellow discoloration at each of those spots (see second photo). In hindsight I should have just quit when the product started to get sticky and call it a day.Items I used:* 100% acetone (about 2 cups total)* 91% isopropyl alcohol (maybe 1/2 cup total)* Paint mixing containers (two that are 1 QT for the side coats and one that is 2QT for the bottom coat)* Wooden mixing sticks* Long handled paint roller* Long handled squeegee* Short handled mini paint roller* Mini paint roller covers, low nap (cabinet and door or "smooth" finish)* Regular paint roller cover, low nap* Disposable gloves - double up if you can* Screwdriver to open can* Shop vac to clean out any leaves that blew in :)* Large garbage bag to set supplies on during painting

I applied Pond Shield (black) on a newly poured concrete fountain basin that had been fully dried and cured according to the cement manufacturer specifications. All suggestions below are for application to a ~30 square foot, rough concrete surface. In general, I am happy with the Pond Shield coating, but was a little frustrated by the instruction sheet included with the product and feel it could have been more clear about mixing requirements and preparation. Here are my observations to hopefully help out other installers:1. The package comes with two cans: Part A (rubberized epoxy) and Part B (an activator). There are no measuring cups in the box despite what it says on the carton, so you'll need to provide your own. For small jobs of around 20-30 square feet, you could probably get by with (2) disposable sets of (1) cup & (1/2) cup. I recommend also getting at least (2) small, quart sized mixing cups (at the paint store), at least (2) 4" paint roller trays, and a 6-pack of rollers. I used a 4" premium lint-free roller (for semi-smooth surfaces) and was happy with the application texture. You'll also need a set of measuring spoons for the alcohol (thinning agent) needed to thin out Part-B before adding it to Part-A2. The instructions inform you that Part B (activator) should be thinned with either denatured alcohol or 99% isopropyl alcohol. Depending on where you are in the country (USA), you may have a hard time finding these products, so plan ahead. I got lucky and ended up finding 99.9% isopropyl at an electronics specialty store in my area. Drugstores will often stock 91% isopropyl, but nothing higher. Again, it's worth planning ahead and putting a quart of 99% in your Amazon order along with the Pond Shield. (As a side note, if you go the denatured alcohol route, it's worth confirming that any product you buy has a high percentage of ethanol instead of methyl alcohol and other adulterants which don't do as good a job at thinning out paint products.)3. For concrete surfaces, the Pond Shield instructions instruct you to treat the surface with a 3part Water to 1part Muriatic acid solution. You can buy this online or at your local masonry supply store. You'll need chemical resistant gloves, eye protection, and (ideally) an acid/gas respirator when prepping this solution, so plan ahead. The instructions say to wash away the solution after you've let it etch the concrete (I gave it about 5 min. of working time) but if you're working in a fountain basin you may need to siphon out the water and use a large sponge to clean up the final wetness.4. IMPORTANT: If working in a basin, I recommend flooding the entire feature to completely neutralize the acid before draining and letting the feature dry off. I might even flood and wash it out twice for good measure. If ANY acid is left on the concrete, you may have issues with the acid residue off gassing after applying the Pond Shield, creating little bubbles throughout the coating. I had this issue, but only on the bottom of the water feature. Because the sides of the fountain were not affected by the bubbles, I assume this effect was created by some of the acid that had not fully washed out of the bottom of the fountain which then reacted with the Pond Shield coating.4. This product flows really well and paints on similar to a latex paint, so a roller works really well. You've got about 45 minutes of working time in mild temperatures (75deg) with a shaded work space. Final finish is smooth and very high gloss. Hardens up within a few hours of application, so keep the working area CLEAN and free of dust in the meantime unless you want to have grit embedded in your coating.I think that's about it, hopefully this information helps other people plan ahead when using this product!

I used this to seal a concrete based, brick-built and rendered pond 20 cm below and 50cm above ground. Five days after three coats we had a lot of rain I now have negative pressure groundwater leaking into my pond where it has split the brittle, tissue paper thick layer that this product dries to. Might be ok for a professionally made solid concrete, fully waterproofed pond but not at all forgiving and in my opinion not suitable for an amateur pond builder unless you are certain your pond is perfectly stable and completely leak-proof before you apply it.

Pond shield come to day 24th May 2020 it to paint a plywood aquarium we havant started it yet we let you now when we’ve finished the job, all the best and keep healthy in this time of lockdown, Regards WAB.

Take your time and follow the instructions carefully.Clean and etch concrete. Rinse well and let dry. Repair any cracks first.Purchased cheap mixing/measuring cups and small brush. (Do not try and clean after use, just throw away). Thin first coat with 99% alcohol and mix as instructed. Waited overnight before mixing 2nd coat. Scuffed-up with Scotch-Brite pad and cleaned with alcohol before applying. Let product harden completely before touching. Filled bird bath with water the next day and it works well.Maybe a little overkill for this project and I have approx. 1/2 leftover but I could not find any other safe product for this application.Nice color !

I used this product in the spring of 2022 for a 8 foot round stock tank pool. I wanted to protect my investment as well as getting that nice pool blue colour. I have never worked with epoxy before so it was an eye opener. If your using this product for the same type of project I highly Recommend 2 things1. The directions say that you can use 90% or higher alcohol DO THIS!!!! Makes the job easier - If you don’t use the alcohol it’s like spreading the thickset & stickiest peanut butter ever!!!! And your coverage will be less2. DO NOT USE LITTLE FOAM ROLLERS!!!! the little foam roller disintegrate into little chunks and if you don’t spend the time picking them out they harden in the epoxy and become little sharp blades in your pool. I Learned the hard way.Please spend the money & use a 3” shed-free woven fiber rollerAlso remember that anything you use with this product to mix with our put into or roll with will be garbage after there’s no cleaning it.I used 2 sets one for the bottom & one for the sides.Happy painting.

I gave this 5 stars, but I feel like the suggested coverage is on the high side, so maybe 4 1/2 stars. However if you have a pristine smooth surface that you're coating, maybe it'll cover like they say. We were coating concrete, and so it the coverage was definitely reduced. The coating looks good however, and brushed on pretty good. We did 2 coats. Like many other reviews state - mix only what you can apply in 15 minutes, and not a drop more. I've never seen anything harden so fast... One sec it was like latex paint, then within 15 seconds it was like tar on the brush, and about 30 seconds later my brush was permanently glued to my paint tray. Would I recommend? Absolutely, just order about 30% more than you think you need. And work fast. No, work really fast. Looks great, and sealed our leak. Thank you