O-NEX H4 9003 HB2 LED Load Resistor Harness 50W 8 Ohm Anti Flicker, 2 Pack

I bought this product after using a Bluetooth OBD adapter and OBD JScan did not fix my issue. Don’t get me wrong both products are still of good use to me, but with my luck it was not enough of a fix.I hit a deer awhile back and had to partially rebuild the front end of my 08 Grand Cherokee. When replacing the headlights, I opted for the SRT8 style headlights so I’d have projector low beams instead of reflector low beams. Reflectors aren’t bad, but projectors make much better use of the light sources output. The downside is halogens suck in most projectors. Companies can try as hard as they want, those relatively small halogen bulbs can only push out so much energy before their longevity falls off. LEDs work depending on how they’re designed in terms of diode placement. HIDs are ideal, but I didn’t like the idea of doing a harness conversion, at least for the time being. So I opted for the LED route as they made them in the 9006/9005 flavor.I came across what seemed to be a nice combo set by Fahren for $35-40ish. I took my bets on it and I ended up being gladly surprised. Nice modern 6000k color temp, bright as s*** and the ring on them were already turned for the optimal beam pattern, even in the projectors. But I did have a problem and I kinda went into it knowing that the Jeep may reject the LEDs in some way because of it being in the era where vehicles started relying more and more on CANBUS to communicate all it’s different functions in all different directions.The problem was that when the bulbs were powered on, the fans were super loud, kinda like the old XB360/PS3 fans that sounded like a jet about to take off. And when they would get powered off, they would stay illuminated very dimly and flicker until the Jeeps accessory circuit had shut off for so many seconds and then they would fully power off. Mind you, the ‘DRL on ECU’ was disabled so the DRL had no effect on the problem. With the low beams, it wasn’t that bad but I ended up keeping the halogens in the high beams because if I used my brights, they would do that flickering crap and I know darn well someone or a cop is gonna be upset at that when I’m driving and kill my brights but stay and flicker.That brings me to using JScan and buying the adapter. By enabling the High Intensity Discharge Lamp option and Quad Headlamps, that would solve the problem; however, the HID option was already active from factory (despite not having the D1S/9005 SRT8 headlight setup from factory) and upon enabling the Quad Headlamps, only the right low beam would even work and still flicker when powered off. Deactivating both options made both work again and the fans were self regulating their speed instead of running only wide open. So I left the settings as is and then invested in a set of these for the low beams. Plugged them in, turned them on and everything was normal, the light output didn’t drop any and upon powering them off, within two- or three-tenths of a second, they shut off completely. Not instantaneous, but still faster than a halogen can go from full intensity to fade to off. And it stopped them from flickering at all. So last night I ordered a second set for the high beams. Once I receive them Monday, I will install the led high beams again and then I should be rocking and rolling.The only downside is that they do get really hot while in operation. That’s how they’re designed to work, basically acting as a dummy load to closer match the LEDs amperage draw to that of a halogen. Remember, LEDs only emit like 1/3 the amount of heat that a halogen bulb of similar wattage emits. Halogens rely on heat to produce light, requiring more energy; LEDs are diodes that generally only get hot if they’re being driven to their limit, mainly why most led headlights have a fan to compensate for the power they’re cranking out of the chips. In my case that has no effect on me, but for those that have vehicles that tell you what bulb is out or gives a general bulb outage alert, that should fix that problem when converting to led from halogen. But it seems to me like it has some sort of capacitor inside it that drains any residual charge in the circuit, which I believe to be the problem I was having. The bulbs had a built-in error decoder but it must not of had a capacitor to keep that from happening.Overall, it seems to be a well worthy purchase. It’s an affordable price and so far has held up fine and hasn’t melted anything and caused a fire. I bumped my hand against it while I was adjusting my right headlight after I hit another deer last week (I was doing 35 in a 35 this time, instead of 55 in a 55 like last time so damage wasn’t near as bad) and I didn’t even feel the heat for a few seconds. Definitely hot but not scalding. I think the LEDs were rated at 65w supposedly and these have 50w printed on them so maybe that’s why mine ain’t getting so hot, really couldn’t tell ya for sure. Or maybe they just dissipate the heat fast in the moisture dense air us Western Kentuckians have been dealing with a lot lately.But yeah, either way, if everything is telling you this is what you need for your led conversion, most likely this is the option for you. Just make sure you select for the right harness/bulb type.

I updated the headlights on my 2006 Toyota Tundra to LED lights and when I did the high beam indicator on the dash would not turn on when I switched on the high beams. Additionally, when I would switch on the fog lights the high beam lights would turn on and the fog lights would not turn on. I did a lot of research and long story short you need to use a canbus decoder or resistor kit. I initially purchased a canbus decoder and it wouldn't even turn my headlights on at all. I bought this resistor kit and installed it and now everything works perfectly! I get the high beam indicator on the dash when high beams are on and my fog lights turn on!****TWO THINGS TO NOTE****The resistors get extremely hot and have to be mounted on a metal surface away from plastic and wiring.The other thing, I read on 1st gen Tundras you only have to add the resistor kit on the passenger headlight. So I tried it and it worked on my truck. So, if you purchase this, install on the passenger headlight first and try it before installing on the driver side headlight.

I bought this LED load resistor kit hoping it would solve my flickering issue. Unfortunately, it didn’t. When the item arrived, it was literally just tossed into a bag—no mounting hardware, no instructions, nothing. The mounting holes are so tiny they don’t even fit a standard cable tie, making installation frustrating.Despite that, I managed to mount the resistors and tested them out. The flickering persisted. Since Amazon offered a free replacement and some reviews mentioned it worked for them, I gave it another shot. I only installed the replacement on one side to compare—but again, no difference between the side with the resistor and the side without.Some positives: it’s easy to install (if you manage to mount it somehow), and the build feels decent. However, functionality is all over the place. High beams worked great, but low beams had issues. Flickering and hyper flashing were not resolved in my case. Also, the resistor gets extremely hot—hot enough that people have reported melting plastic parts. That’s a serious concern.Fitment is another problem: the sockets don’t align well, making installation even more difficult. As for error messages, some people said it worked for them, but I still saw errors on my dash.Overall, this product was a letdown. It may work for some, but it didn’t fix anything for me.

These work great. I tried to run the new lights without them but bulbs would only work on dim and without the truck running. If I started the truck it was lights out. I sent support a message and they got right back to me. Told me this is exactly what I needed and it absolutely took care of the problem. BTW this was for a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500. Couldn’t be more happy with the support.

A friend drives a 2019 Toyota Sienna and needed brighter lights due to poor night vision. I replaced halogen bulbs Type S LED bulbs on High beams, Low beams, and fog lights ( only had the car for 2 days and these were locally available). The only real issue was pulsing in the low beams against my garage door at dusk ( I later found this is a common problem with toyota's of this vintage). I purchased these units to hopefully dampen that issue. I saw these cost about half the price of similar units, and wondered if there was an issue, and there was. the female end of these pulse dampers, were just a bit too small to fit the car harness male end. Solution, I took a heat gun, and after testing from the lowest temp, to about 470 F, evenly applying heat around the edge of the connector. I watched till I saw it begin to get shiny. waited till the sheen was even, and it was just enough to stretch the connector till it stretched when I inserted the cold harness male end in. no damage to the soldered connections was seen. took about 30 min to slowly test temps and timing to make sure I did not melt the plug, but the second one was done in 10 min once I got the pattern down. It noticeably reduced the pulsing, looking on the garage door again at dusk, but had some concern.. A test drive proved my concern unwarranted, and no pulsing was visible while driving, even spotted a deer on a curvy steep road, well before there was any concern. note, these units get very warm, and I used zip ties to attach them to the frame behind the radiator, which dissipated heat from hot to the touch, to just warm, after the 20 min test drive loop on multiple road types. I could not have reasonably expected more.

2006 Jeep Commander. I added LED bulbs which worked fine, but would flicker dimly after turning lights off. These resistors eliminated that issue. Not fully certain how, but they definitely worked for the issue I was having. And the price is right.*EDIT AFTER A YEAR*Still work perfectly. Listen, don’t pay any attention to the dummies who complain that the car almost burned down. However, you DO NEED to follow the instructions and mount them to a metal surface. They need to shed heat into something metal. If you just let them hang out, they can’t transfer any heat anywhere, so they will continue to get way too dangerously hot.The mounting tabs are a little too small for any screws I had on hand. I used heat transfer cement instead to glue them to a metal radiator support. Thermal glue, whatever it’s called. Greyish stuff for $5 for a couple tubes. Worked perfectly and still holding strong with zero issues.I used a total of four resistors, one for each high and low beam bulbs. I didn’t need them for my fog lights, because they don’t go through the fault code system, so no weird error or flickering.

I needed these for my 05 Ram 1500. I changed my headlights to LED bulbs and I was getting a bad flickering problem. I Ordered these and so far, it has fixed that problem, and my light stay on with no issues. They plugged right in, so pretty much plug and play, and I mounted the resistors on the metal frame the fog lights mount on. I have not used them very long, and the Phoenix heat has not hit, so if they last thru a Phoenix AZ summer, I will let you know. But, so far, so good. I would buy again if needed.

did spot my flicker as they promised for my leds but wire fell out within 2 months of having them in.

Cumple con lo que menciona

Work great

انا ركبتها على سيارتي(فورد جراند ماركيز) في البدايه اشتغلت بس لما تشغل نور العادي ترجع المشكله الوميض السريع و غير مستقره

ممتاز

Ne ho provati parecchi, questo è perfettamente funzionante