be Quiet! BK008 Pure Rock Slim - CPU Cooler - 120W TDP- Intel 1150/1151/ 1155/1156 & AMD Socket AM2(+) / AM3(+) / AM4 / FM1 / FM2(+)

Cooler came with brackets for all cpu's and was easy to install. I do recommend some extra cooling paste as it was a bit thin.

its fine cooler i used in my pc since my old cooler brake

My computer is an ASUS B550 Plus, fitted with a RYZEN 5 5600g CPU and Wraith Stealth Cooler. It just ran TOO hot for my liking. Even at idle the temperature was 48°C to 52°C with the fan running at full speed. It was noisy.So, I replaced the stock cooler with this one. What a difference it made. That temperature shown in the screen shot was taken with a ambient room temperature of 24.5°C watching YouTube.Fitting is straight forward and it came supplied already coated with thermal paste.Points to note!1. The pillars supplied have a recess at one end only to fit over the motherboard back plate pillar coming through the motherboard, so make sure the recess end fits onto the backplate correctly. This is not shown in the instructions.2. You MUST recalibrate the BIOS Q-Fan settings. In the BIOS look for Q-Fan and start the calibration process. WHY, because the motherboard will not detect the low fan speed correctly and may not boot up or turn off some LED features on the motherboard. If this is a bug with ASUS I cannot find any reference to it. My system Booted up but the aura LED's were disabled. After the fan calibration everything was ok.Well, with that minor issue over I can highly recommend this cooler.

In einer Welt, in der Effizienz und Lautstärke häufig in entgegengesetzte Richtungen ziehen, hat be quiet! mit dem Pure Rock CPU-Kühler eine beeindruckende Balance gefunden. Als jemand, der stundenlange Gaming-Sessions und anspruchsvolle Design-Arbeiten auf meinem PC durchführt, war die Suche nach einem leisen, aber effizienten Kühler immer ein Drahtseilakt. Dieses Produkt hat jedoch alle meine Bedenken aus dem Weg geräumt.Angefangen mit der Installation, die überraschend einfach und unkompliziert war. Das mitgelieferte Montageset passt problemlos auf die gängigen Intel- und AMD-Sockel, und die mitgelieferte Anleitung ist klar und leicht verständlich. Innerhalb von wenigen Minuten war der Kühler betriebsbereit.Die Leistung des Pure Rock ist beeindruckend. Die Temperatur meiner CPU bleibt selbst unter hoher Last stets im grünen Bereich. Der Kühlkörper und die Kupfer-Heatpipes leiten die Hitze effizient ab, während der 120mm PWM-Lüfter stets genug Luft durch die Kühlrippen bläst, um die Temperatur zu regulieren.Aber was den Pure Rock wirklich auszeichnet, ist seine Lautstärke - oder besser gesagt, das Fehlen davon. Wie der Name "be quiet!" schon suggeriert, ist dieser Kühler extrem leise. Selbst wenn mein PC mit Volllast läuft, ist der Lüfter kaum hörbar. Es ist so still, dass ich manchmal vergesse, dass mein PC überhaupt läuft.Die Qualität und Langlebigkeit dieses Produkts sprechen ebenfalls für sich. Die Verarbeitung ist solide und robust. Der Lüfter läuft gleichmäßig und ohne Anzeichen von Verschleiß. be quiet! bietet zudem eine dreijährige Abdeckung an, was meine Zuversicht in dieses Produkt nur weiter stärkt.Zusammenfassend kann ich sagen, dass der be quiet! Pure Rock CPU-Kühler meine Erwartungen nicht nur erfüllt, sondern sogar übertroffen hat. Er kombiniert hervorragende Kühlleistung, einfache Installation und nahezu geräuschlosen Betrieb in einem Produkt, das sowohl robust als auch langlebig ist. Ob Sie nun ein Hardcore-Gamer sind, der nach einer Kühllösung für stundenlange Gaming-Sessions sucht, oder ein Designer, der eine leise Arbeitsumgebung für seine kreativen Prozesse benötigt, der be quiet! Pure Rock ist ein Produkt, das ich jedem ohne zu zögern empfehlen würde. Preis/Leistung ist hier unschlagbar, wenn man auf einen regulären Kühler setzen möchte. Daher gebe ich ihm voller Überzeugung 5 von 5 Sternen.

Seit Kurzem ist es ruhig um mich! Ich habe den Pure Rock CPU-Kühler durch den AMD Wraith Prism getauscht und bin mit meiner Entscheidung sehr zufrieden. Dieser Kühler hat meine Erwartungen hinsichtlich Größe, Kühlleistung und Qualität übertroffen.Als Erstes möchte ich hervorheben, wie leise dieser Kühler ist. Selbst unter Volllast macht es kaum hörbare Geräusche egal ob ich mit After Effects, Photoshop, Illustrator oder die neusten Games spiele. Das ist mir besonders wichtig, da ich einen leisen Rechner bevorzuge und nicht durch störende Lüftergeräusche abgelenkt werden möchte. Der Pure Rock erfüllt diese Anforderungen perfekt und ermöglicht mir, in Ruhe zu arbeiten und zu spielen.Auch die thermische Leistung ist beeindruckend. Auch bei intensiven Aufgaben oder langen Gaming-Sessions bleibt mein Prozessor kühl. Der Kühler hält die Temperatur auf einem konstanten Niveau und verhindert eine Überhitzung meines Systems. Das ist mir sehr wichtig, da ich mir um die Wärmeableitung keine Sorgen machen möchte. Bei meinem Selbsttest, bei dem ich die CPU bis zum Limit getestet habe, blieb der Kühler sehr leise und hielt gleichzeitig eine angenehme Temperatur aufrecht.Die Qualität des Kühlers ist ebenfalls bemerkenswert. Die Verarbeitung ist solide und robust, und die mitgelieferten Montageteile machen die Installation sehr einfach. Ich hatte keinerlei Probleme, den Kühler auf meinem Motherboard zu befestigen, und er sitzt fest und sicher.Ein weiterer positiver Aspekt ist das attraktive Design des Kühlers. Mit seinem schlanken und eleganten Erscheinungsbild passt er gut in jede PC-Konfiguration.Alles in allem kann ich den be quiet! Pure Rock CPU-Kühler wärmstens empfehlen. Er bietet eine leise und effiziente Kühlung, hält die Temperaturen niedrig und ist von hoher Qualität. Wenn Sie nach einem zuverlässigen Kühler suchen, der Ihren Anforderungen gerecht wird, ist der Pure Rock die perfekte Wahl.

Ich habe den Pure Rock 2 FX als Ersatz für meine Silent Loop 2 AiO gekauft, die sich leider verabschiedet hat nach 2,5 Jahren.Ziel war es meinen 5800X, der ja von Natur aus schon sehr heiß wird, da alle Kerne auf einem CCD sitzen, auf "Normaler" Betriebstemperatur zu halten. Unter Last beim Spielen ~75 Grad und im Idle normale 50-55 Grad. Mit der Silent Loop hatte ich im Idle schon 85 Grad.Der Kühler reicht also vollkommen aus, wer mehr Kühlleistung will sollte sich einen Dark Rock zulegen, sehe ich hier aber keinen Grund für. Mit dem Light Wings PWM gibts auch nochmal paar mehr FPS durch RGB. Falls jemand wie ich, keinen ARGB Anschluss auf dem Board hat, sollte man sich einen ARGB Controller zulegen.

This is a nice piece of kit. I discovered it in a video of a silent build (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXZrWqCT7R0). In my case, I'm installing it on an Asus Z170 Pro (not Pro Gaming, just Pro) on top of an Intel i5 6600k Skylake processor into a be quiet! Silent Base 800 case (with window). From conception, therefore, I knew I would have plenty of clearance between 'the beast' and the side panel.Right, you're going to have to be VERY patient during installation. Get a good night's sleep, eat breakfast, have a cup of coffee and buy a pack of cigarettes. There is simply no way you're going to install 'the beast' in under a day. I'm serious. Any attempt to rush this project could cause damage to your board and processor - and your neighbors because impatience will lead to frustration, which will lead to your photo in the newspaper for going postal - and you don't want to spend the rest of your life in prison.1) before you even open the box, download the manual from the be quiet! website (http://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/482). The printed sheet included in the box is not only too small to be useful, but it crams the world's 6,500 known languages onto a single sheet of paper. You will need to zoom in on the schematic via the pdf to understand the assembly.2) remove the contents of the box slowly and carefully. Place the items in a separate area of your workbench so they don't get mixed up with other stuff. For God's sake, don't hold 'the beast' over your motherboard - ever! One slip and your entire apartment block will collapse, demolishing your motherboard and making you and the families beneath you homeless. If ever the words "handle with care" meant anything, this is the time.3) read the manual. Then read it again. Then go for a walk and have a cigarette. Come back and read it again. Then look at 'the beast' - don't touch it, just look at it. Study it visually. Then read the manual again. By now, it's lunchtime. Get a sandwich and a Coke. Maybe do a half hour of yoga.4) do NOT attempt to remove the processor latch plate. Ambiguity in the DRP3 manual might lead you to believe that you should. No no no, do not remove anything related to the processor's connection to the motherboard (other than the plastic cap that protects the socket in shipment).5) since you will be handling your motherboard a lot when installing the DRP3, wash your hands and use an anti-static mat with wrist ground. And, again, be patient! The DRP3 is the the most difficult step in your build.6) while the Germans are masters of precision engineering, their command of written English ain't so hot. We therefore need to clarify some terminology:-- the 'Intel backplate' comes attached to the back of the motherboard. It's what holds the processor socket onto the front of the board. Do not confuse it with the DRP3 'backplate' (the big, black, heavy slab of metal with four holes that comes with the boxed DRP3).-- there are two types of DRP3 'brackets' (for Intel or AMD) and two types of screws (for the Intel bracket or the AMD bracket). Note the countersink (the tapered sides) of the holes on one side of the brackets. You will be inserting the screws into the countersinked side. The taper of the screw heads will match up with the tapered side of the bracket holes. Knowing this helps you to know which side of the brackets (the non countersinked side) will be affixed to 'the beast'. Careful study of the schematic on the pdf will confirm that the brackets flange away from 'the beast'.7) the DRP3 backplate goes onto the back of the motherboard over the Intel backplate. The padded side of the DRP3 backplate faces the motherboard. There is some confusion whether to remove the square, plastic film in the center of the DRP3 backplate. It appears removable, but there are no instructions anywhere to remove it. When placing the DRP3 backplate against the motherboard, the three screw heads of the Intel backplate should be visible.8) position the DRP3 backplate such that the four holes align with the four holes on the motherboard. Insert the four long screws into the four holes. On the front of the motherboard, use the four plastic clips to hold the screws in position (and prevent the DRP3 backplate from falling off). Lay the motherboard down on the workbench and go get a coffee.9) screw the brackets to 'the beast'. The next step is a bit awkward. The brackets have three holes on each arm that overlap like a Venn diagram. For an 1151 processor (Skylake), you will be using the center hole. Here's where you'll scratch your head and wonder why someone would design such a sloppy system (probably to save money). It would be much better if there were two sets of Intel brackets: one with two distinct holes (the two holes furthest apart of the three) and another with one hole (the middle hole of the three). This might seem trivial until one realizes that the long screws are going to have to line up precisely with the threaded holes in the center of the nut/bolts that attach to the brackets. The last thing one wants under such circumstances is any play whatsoever in the alignment - especially when it comes to actually marrying 'the beast' to the board.10) attach the nut/bolts to the brackets as shown in the manual pdf. The nuts are hexagonal. Make sure they align with the slight trough on the bracket (the sides of the nuts against the sides of the trough). While this will help to hold the nuts in place as you tighten the bolt on the other side of the bracket, I suggest you also use a small socket wrench to hold the nuts in position to guarantee they don't turn inside the trough.11) unless you are a mutant with four arms, it is now that you realize the difficulty of actually attaching 'the beast' to the board. You will need one hand to hold the motherboard upright on its side/edge, two hands to hold 'the beast' in place and a fourth hand to hold the screwdriver to turn the long screws into the threaded center hole of the nuts/bolts. This action pulls 'the beast' onto the motherboard.12) you will be tempted to think there must be a better way. Don't be fooled. If you try instead to mount the bolts onto the long screws with the idea that you can lay the motherboard flat and that the pesky center hole (of the three) of the brackets is going to align naturally with the bolt, your instincts are correct, but it creates a problem. You will notice very little thread protruding on the bolts for the nuts to grab. This should set off alarm bells. Something's wrong. Indeed, you will see that it's impossible for the nut and bolt to clamp onto the bracket without bending the arms of the bracket and probably destroying your processor.13) referring back to point 11, two-handed humans will now have to either phone a friend to come help or - tada - get some largish softcover books from your library. Through trial and error, you will need to select the right thickness of books to create a stack. Set the 'the beast' on its side on the stack such that the height of the nut/bolts are precisely level with the long screws. Then pray to God that you mounted the nut/bolts in the exact center of that pesky center hole on the arms of the brackets.14. note that the base of 'the beast' is rectangular. Notice too that the Intel socket is rectangular. They need to be aligned. You will also need to think about airflow and the position of the fan leads. I removed the front fan and repositioned the central fan so that the lead reached the motherboard conveniently.15. remove the protective plastic film from the base of 'the beast'. Apply thermal paste to the processor. I used a medium-sized droplet of Arctic MX-4.16) with the stack of books supporting the weight of 'the beast', line up the screws and gently turn the long screws (from behind the board) such that they catch the threads inside the nut/bolts. Once all four long screws have caught the threads, slowly turn the long screws in sequence (1, 2, 3, 4, 1, 2, 3, 4, 1, 2, 3, 4...) until you feel some resistance. STOP. Hold 'the beast' with one hand and slightly tip the board then rest 'the beast' back down on the stack of books. Now tighten the screws gently a bit more. Rinse and repeat. Your goal is to use the long screws to pull the base of 'the beast' flush and flat against the processor. DO NOT USE FORCE. Continue to tighten in sequence in stages over a period of about 15 minutes. This allows the screws to 'settle in'. Remember, this area is going to get very hot (computer on) and return to room temperature (computer off) over and over again. The result is expansion and contraction of the metal. You therefore want to make sure there is no slack (without overtightening the screws).17) there has been an issue reported recently about Skylake's potential vulnerability to concussion due to its thinner laminar. It is essential, therefore, that while 'the beast' should fit snug against the processor, it should not put undue pressure on the processor (through overtightening or concussion). Once assembled, be careful not to drop or bang your computer. Remember, 'the beast' hangs on your motherboard with its weight against the processor. Needless to say, remove 'the beast' if you ever intend to transport your computer.Right. Having said all that, 'the beast' is a mighty fine cooler. The removable fans are a nice touch as is the spare set of fan clips. Oh, and having read this review, chances are you can install 'the beast' in a single day.