OONO DPST 1NO 1NC 8Amp Power Relay Module, AC 110V 115V 120V Control Voltage

Upgraded my cart to lithium battery and had to rework the charging port to 120v. The original port had a charging interlock switch safety system that prevents the cart from moving when the cord is plugged in and charging. Since that system used the 48v coming in from the charger to send power to the interlock switch, I had to use the 120v power going to the charger in the cart to do the same thing. The easiest option was to tap into the 120v inside the charger which I ran to the relay. The red wire on the NC end goes to the 48v lithium battery and the black wire runs to the charging interlock switch. When the cart isn't plugged in, that switch is closed passing 48v to the interlock switch. When it's plugged in, the relay trips and power is cut to the switch and the cart won't run. I'll probably wire up the unused normally open circuit to some LED lights to show it's charging when plugged in. So you could get two uses out of this relay.

Replaced my home’s chlorine pump that runs when my well pump runs. New pump needed to stay powered all of the time. I used the chlorine pump’s remote stop function along with the dry contact on this module to stop the chlorine pump when the well pump stopped. Works like a charm.

Excelente

I wanted to put a timer switch (see attached picture) on a low voltage/millivolt fireplace insert that was activate by a traditional toggle switch. I pulled 120v from a nearby switch into the switch box for the fireplace toggle switch. I then wired up the relay and the timer switch as shown in the attached wiring diagram. Works perfect, I can now just hit a timer button and the fireplace comes on for that amount of time. Fitting the switch and the relay into a single gang box was an EXTREMELY tight fit, and required cutting the plastic mounting "dog ears" off the top and the bottom of the really, but the switch and relay do all fit (barely, and requires some force to push it all in).

I have this installed with a very light load. So far so good but I’m still feeling it’s going to fail when I need it the most.

For my public bathrooms, I needed two thermostats... one to keep heat at minimum, and one to turn up the furnace whenever the bathroom was in use. So I wired this unit into my bathroom lights (that come on with a motion sensor) and wired the low thermostat to the normally closed circuit and wired the high thermostat to the normally open thermostat. When the lights turn on, the thermostat in control changes! TADA! Could not have been simpler and all you need to see is the diagram on the unit to know EXACTLY how to hook it up.

I needed to control a low voltage gas fireplace control with a wireless switch which used 110V infeed. I connected the output of the 110 switch to the line in on this relay and used the normally open switch to control the 24 Volt low voltage connection. I worked flawlessly and the small relay fit behind the wireless switch in the wall switch box. Great product for a great price.

I only use the basement lights when I have the stairway lights on (as I come downstairs into the basement). But after getting upstairs, I find that I constantly leave the basement lights on after turning off the stairwell lights and seeing that it's still light in the basement. This requires me to go downstairs to turn them off again. I used this product to splice into the power source of the basement lights and control it with the power to the stairwell light switch. The lights in the basement now need both the stairwell light switch on as well as the basement light switch on. Now, even if I forget to turn off the basement lights, they turn off when I turn off the stairwell light switch, even though they are on different circuits.

My garage is cramped, and I recently bought a new car. Parking lines have been painted on the ground, but the original garage door light was dim, making it difficult to see the lines when backing into the garage. So I bought a high-powered LED garage light (but due to power limitations, it can't be directly connected to my garage door light). My challenge was synchronizing the LED light with the garage door's opening and closing. I tried using Wi-Fi, light sensors, and motion sensors to control the LED light, but none of these methods worked perfectly. Then I tried use a relay. This relay is perfect for my needs. Now my LED light and the existing garage door light are perfectly synchronized. I give it 5 stars!

Useful ($28 Cdn) device from amazon keeps a light on During an outage as it automatically senses a power fail state and switches on a hooked device such as a lamp connected to a battery Powered (115V APC etc UPS inverter) backup source - Very useful to keep a light or other appliance on during a power outage Simply connect the "input wires" to a plug and then plug into a 115V AC wall outlet Connect just one set of wires (black and red) of the "normally open" switched output in series with your 115V desk light or overhead 115V AC bulb etc, with your 115V UPS power source jack. The switch will close contact using electromagnetic relay connection the moment the iput source loses power during n outage. you could also control a device running other voltages such as a 12V device linked to a 12V power source such as a battery etc relay contacts rated for up to an 8AMP load at 115V