GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer, In-Wall, 12724

Installed this with an add-on switch yesterday. It works so well, I'm trying to pace myself from replacing every switch in the house with z-wave.Installation is a little tricky if you've never messed with swapping out a switch before. The instructions aren't super clear, but if you study them long enough, it eventually makes enough sense. Here's what I had to do:1.) Turn the light off. Kill the breaker to the switch.2.) Unscrew the plate and existing switch. Popping the existing wires out of the back of the old switch was the hardest part here.3.) Pull out the white wires (neutrals) from the back of the box4.) Unscrew the wire nut off the neutrals. Add in the short neutral wire included in the GE switch box and screw the wire nut back on.5.) Connect the 4 or 5 wires that are now open to the new switch: line, load, neutral, traveler (only if 3-way config), ground.6.) Turn breaker on. Check to see you've got a blue LED.7.) Put your hub in discovery mode. Push the switch once to make it pair.8.) Turn breaker back off. Screw everything back in and put on a fitting plate. Done!A couple other notes for people who are totally new to this:Line = wire coming from the breakerLoad = wire going to the light fixtureTraveler = wire that runs between two (or more) switches that allows you to flip the same light on/off from multiple places. Normally red.It can be hard to tell which is which between line/load as both of these are usually black. From my experience, the line wire was almost always connected via wire nut in the back of the box while the load wire was just free by itself. The load wire was also generally closer to the traveler wire.**UPDATE: So I just finished an install of 4 of these in the same gangbox. It was a LOT harder than I expected. Things get immediately more complicated when you're putting in more than 1 of these in the same box. Here's what I ran into:1.) Each of these switches takes a dedicated ground wire. However, all multi-switch boxes in my house have the ground wire daisy-chained and shared between them. This meant I had to cut the existing ground wire and run separate short ones from a wire nut to each switch. Very annoying. Really wish these things had some way to pass through the ground wire. Almost enough to drop this to 4 stars.2.) The neutral wire bundle in the back of the box already has 4 in there. That means you can't just cram 4 more neutral wires from these switches into that same wire nut. I had to combine the 4 new neutrals into their own new bundle and then use a short wire that would connect the two wire nut bundles. Also annoying.3.) Those metal tabs on the sides. The instructions say you "may" need to snap them off when installing multiple switches next to each other. There was no "may" about it for me as there's no way more than one of these things will fit into a box and plate with those tabs. The tabs themselves are not hard to remove as long as you use some large pliers (locking pliers make it easier). I did leave the outside tabs on the outer-most switches, though.4.) Box space. Oh man. Because of #1 and #2, you end up adding a lot of extra wire into the back of the box. Things get really tight really fast. The majority of my time on this task was getting everything crammed back in. It was so tight that when I would push everything in, the box itself was sliding back deeper into the wall. The short screws I had would never reach to attach the switches to the box. So I went out and bought longer screws, which made it tons easier. I also ran into problems where every time I'd smash stuff in, some random wire in one of those bundles would pop out, and I've have to pull everything out and start over. Endless trips to the breaker and back. At least I hit my fitness tracker step goal.5.) INSPECT USED UNITS. Closely. Most of the time they're fine, but two of mine were missing the neutral wire in the box (luckily I had extra wire to make my own). One of them had the screw totally broken off on the neutral wire port, so I had to try and rig the wire to stay put. Finally, one of them was actually the older version of the switch that doesn't even take a neutral wire, even though the box it came in had the newer model model # printed on it - that one's obviously getting returned.But in the end, all 4 switches work, and having them dimmable, networked, automated is glorious. I'm just glad I don't have any more 4-switch boxes.

They seem to be well manufactured and solid, but do they work? YES! This product is exactly as described.Pay attention to the directions - the directions are very clear.I first purchased two GE 12723 Add-On Switches with one GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Dimmer Switch in order to test them out before buying them for the entire house. I ran several tests. First, I connected the Controller Dimmer by itself with one incandescent light AND one LED light in a a two-way configuration - Everything worked fine. Then I added one Add-On Switch - so now we have a three-way configuration - Everything worked fine. Then I added the second Add-On Switch - now we have a Four-way configuration - Everything worked fine.In other reading and reviews, I heard that some dimmers have problems with low load on the line - the dimmers would not turn on at all. So, I removed the incandescent light leaving only one 5 watt LED light. Now, you can't get much lower load than that. Happily, the switches worked flawlessly.That's it for the actual review, but here is a little background. In my last home, ten years ago, there were few options for automation. At that time I did a lot of research and decided on Lutron Radio RA (a proprietary system). I have to say, "That system was solid - expensive, but solid - it never failed". Needless to say I was very happy with it for over 5 years, until I wanted to add to it. Then I discovered that Lutron discontinued Radio RA and replaced it with Radio RA II which was not downward compatible. So my only options were to replace everything in my house or buy used, if I could find it. I felt that Lutron betrayed there original customers by not supporting the first version. So, on my new home, I have decided to use an open architecture type system and I have decided on zWave. Now I can buy all of the component parts from many companies (hubs, switches, sensors, everything) and I am no longer dependent on a single proprietary company. With Open Architecture, you have more options, more development, more competition, which all leads to more innovation and lower prices. Today, there are aspects of zWave products that need improvement, but it's getting better every day and more and more companies are getting on board. If one company abandons zWave, there are many more out there to choose from.

I bought several of these for Z-Wave integration with a Honeywell Tuxedo Touch controller. Once installed, registration with the controller was quick and painless, and all switches are remotely visible and controllable via Honeywell's Total Connect service. The switches replaced existing Leviton IllumaTech dimmers in applications that include incandescent and LED bulbs.As a replacement for existing dimmers, I found the switch's operation a bit awkward and unintuitive; they take a little getting used to. They're meant to simulate a Decora-style rocker switch, so by simply clicking the top or bottom of the switch you turn lights on or off. Pressing and holding the top or bottom increases or decreases the brightness level. The awkwardness comes from the short throw and spring back of the rocker, and the fact that the lights do not immediately come on after pressing the switch (they slowly brighten or dim). Because the rocker springs back and the lights don't immediately respond, your subconscious response is to hold a finger on the rocker, which may unintentionally change the brightness level.Beyond that, the switches were quick to install and work as expected in the Tuxedo's Z-Wave network.

This dimmer, mostly, does exactly what you'd want:* when it's off, tap the up rocker and it turns on to the brightness it was at before* when it's off, hold the up rocker and it turns on to where it was was before and then brightens to full brightness* when it's on, hold the up rocker to brighten it to full brightness* when it's on, hold the down rocker to dim it to minimal brightness (but see below)* when it's on, tap the down rocker to turn it offI think that about sums it up... no surprises there. But there is at least one gotcha:* if the dimmer is ON and you hold the DOWN rocker, it will dim all the way to 0%. Except 0% is not "off". This can be very confusing because if you look at your lights, you'll THINK they're OFF at this point. But if you tap UP (which you would expect to be turning your lights back on), nothing happens. If you tap DOWN, it then actually turns itself OFF... which is even more confusing because the next time you tap UP it'll turn itself back on to 0% (the brightness it was at last time it was on). At this point you're understandably confused - it doesn't matter what you tap, the light doesn't come on.The trick is to keep an eye on the blue indicator light at the bottom of the switch. The default behaviour for this (which can be reversed on some z-wave controllers) is to act as a night-light. So if the blue light is on, it means it thinks your controlled lights are off. If the blue light is off, it means it thinks your controlled lights are on... although they may be at 0%In my opinion, it would be smarter for the dimmer to automatically transition to OFF when it reaches "ON at 0%"... but that doesn't seem to be what it does.One further point to note: there seems to be some concern about dimmers and LED bulbs. Some people are seeing LED bulbs flicker when they're supposed to be turned off & it appears this might be related to controlling low wattage loads. For the record, I'm controlling 6 Leif 4W candle bulbs with this dimmer and have got no flicker problems.

Lo tengo integrado a un vera compartido con otros dimmers Leviton, funciona bien sin embargo hay ocasiones que lo responde, cosa que no me pasa con los leviton.

THE GOOD1. Dimming, motion, on/off, customizable settings through zwave Parameters2. Integrates easily major IOT hubs, wink, Smartthings, Vera, HomeSeer and others3. Uses zwave plus 500 series chip with adds up x2 the speed and range4. Dimmer works with LED, Halogen and Dimmable CFL bulbs5. Has adjustable motion sensitivity settings6. Clean look just like a decora rocker switch7. Can disable the led8. Will work in single pole, 3 and 4 way setups.9. The optional faceplate colors will blend into your decore, it comes with white and tan in the box but they also sell back and grey. 10. The wiring is very easy, you don't need to wrap the eletrical wire around a screw, they insert into a hole and you tighten down a nut. In most single gauge installations, no marionettes (wire nuts) are needed. Nuterual white wire required.THE DRAWBACKS1. Ground wiring wraps a green screw, would be great if they were all injectable holes like the others.2. When tapping on/off it dims to on/off which is fine, however the ramp rate it very slow. Most people first time press off for example and almost get the impression they did something wrong, but in 1/2 second it starts dimming to off. Would be a good 600 series chip firmware settings to have instant on/off as an option for improving user experience and first impressions.THE VERDICTThere's not any switch like this on the market for zwave plus (or zigbee for that matter). Bottom line, get it, perfectly amazing, it will nicely compliment your smart home.

I have a pendant light with GU 10 LED lamps and I wanted to control these lamps remotely. One option was to replace with Philips Hue GU 10 LEDs that come in packs of 2 @ $50 per pack. But that would have been costly as I have 5 lamps and I would have had to purchase 3 of the 2-pack units ($150). I replaced my existing dimmer with the GE Z-Wave dimmer and it works perfectly. I could link it to my Google Home through Smart Hub and can control using voice commands. I would strongly recommend this dimmer to anyone interested in automating some of their lights. Very good product. Installation is pretty easy in under 10 minutes. You would need a neutral wire coming to the box.

A good zwave switch, pairs easily with smartthings. Well made and I really like the feel of the switch.An indicator light can be configured to show when light off to find in the dark or to be on to signal when an outdoor light is on or just permanently on or off which is helpful.Installation can be challenging.1. The unit is very bulky so it can become difficult to fit in the box especially if you have other switches and/or excess wire.2. You do need to know how to install it, most light switches will have 2 wires and this will require 3 wires, you have to know where to connect the neutral to install correctly. This light switch requires direct power at all times that it can be connected wirelessly to your zwave hub.3. Finally if you want to connect to a 3 way switch (2 switches for same light fixture) this will require 4 wires and may need an electrician to run a traveler between the two switches. If wired correctly the pairing of the two switches works seamlessly.Overall I have several in my house and they work great definitely recommend but if you aren't good with electrical ask for help.