Dremel BT40-01 Build Sheets for 3D40 3D Printer

Bought as other methods did not hold the bottom flat during printing. This keeps it so flat and tight that I have to use a hammer and blade to free the print. Wish there was something a little less strong

MY printing stick well on it, no more curved edge problem, and long lasting, good product !

Tel que décrit. Merci.

I have 2 x Dremel 3D40 and 6 x 3D20 printers. I have been printing for years and have tried ALL 3D printers and different configurations with these. Let me start by saying that all 3D printers are about the same when it comes to what they can do as long as the filament type and build volume is the same for the printer. So like for like printers will do the same thing. Just how it gets there and how much config and the difficulty you will have to get it to do what you want is what separates them for me.I just am fed up with all the pre-requisites for prep required for settings, and setup before printing on other printers. I like the Dremel approach of stick the build tape on the build plate make sure you have filament, and then print. From the Filament, the build tape, the software and the settings for the printer are all done for you already.Is it the best, no. But does the Bosch Dremel eco-system more than offest this, most definitely. It is the easiest, most trouble-free solution there is.This Build tape for the 3D40 is one case in point. It greatly simplifies the prep for print, to basically nothing. I get my design on either the paid Simplify3D or the included Dremel 3D slicer and click print.This is what you need to do to get the most out of this build tape:1. Buy 220 Grit Sanding blocks.2. Clean the build plate of either the 3D20 or the 3D40 with Alcohol and a clean rag.3. Peel the 3D40 Build tape and stick it on the Build plate. If you use this for the 3D20, you must cut the excess so that it does not touch the internal filament spool.4. If you are using this 3D40 Built tape on a 3D20, and you find that your print sticks way too much to the build tape, lightly sand the Build tape with the 220 Sanding blocks and a little water just to smoothen it out a little. You do this so that your print will not stick too much to the build tape.5. On both the 3D40 and 3D20, eventually after printing several times, the prints stop sticking to the build tape. This is normal as filament residue has overwhelmed the build tape and gives it poor adhesion. Lightly sand the Build Tape with the 220 Sanding block and a little water till you have sanded the whole build tape. This will greatly extend the useful life of your Build tape.6. But the MOST IMPORTANT thing which affects the life of any Build tape is Leveling. An incorrect level will cause your print to stick too much to the build tape and almost fuse with it. That nozzle has to be at the correct height.For the 3D40, this is the leveling procedure:1. Power on the 3D40 and then press Level on the front panel.2. It will test the Leveling points. it will tell you to adjust up or down if it finds that it is not level.3. Turn the adjustment knob at the bottom of the build plate clockwise or counterclockwise. It will tell you to click VERIFY when you are close.4. Then it will verify. If it is good then it will move on to the next.5. After leveling, you need to go to Settings...Service Tools...Leveling switch. Here you will calibrate the Auto leveling sensor. If this is wrong, on any 3D printer brand, you will have problems and will damage the build tape.6. You will see a test for Up and Bottom. "Up" is the test for how flush the Leveling sensor is when it is supposed to be hidden. So click plus or minus to adjust it, click Test and repeat this until the Sensor is not visible when it is tucked away.7. For the "Bottom" test, this one is the most important. You need to Adjust and Test, until you see the Sensor is 90 degrees and pointing straight down with the print bed. Visually inspect it as well as you can.8. Then go to the Z-Axis Offest Test menu option. here the Dremel can guide you on the proper height the nozzle is from the print bed.9. Click on Assisted calibration. Here the Dremel will print out 3 Rectangles, A, B and C from left to right. See which one has the best looking print and also sticks well enough to the bed, but not too much that you cannot remove it from the Build tape. Once you find the rectangle that you like, click on the letter on the menu corresponding to the letter of the rectangle. So, if the leftmost recrtangle, "A" has the best print, then Click A. Then Accept the change.10. Keep running test 9 above until you find that the rectangle "B" is your choice. Once it is "B" then you are calibrated.Before every print, click on Level and adjust anything if it is needed so that the printer does not have to do any compensation for incorrect level during the auto calibration it does before the printing starts as Auto Calibration is just a stop gap. It will never be as good as a properly calibrated machine.Another important point is NEVER remove a print from the Build Tape while the printed object, bed and Build tape are still hot or warm. It has to be cool. I would wait at least 30 minutes to an hour before removing it just to be sure. If you try to remove the Print from the Build Tape, you will DESTROY the Build Tape. Waiting for it to cool down completely will let you remove the object from the tape much easier since matter contracts when cooled, causing the Print and the tape to separate easier.If you Calibrate your printer once in a while, check the level on every print, wait for it to cool down, and sand the Build Tape when it starts not to stick, then the build tape will last a long time.Just so you know, on the 8 Dremels I have, I typically only change the tape after about 3 months of daily use. So I print about 3 prints/printer/day. So that means I change every 250-270 prints. That is why I use this and not painters tape. It is even cheaper to use than my Matterhacker Pulse XE that uses a Garolite plate and uses a glue stick for adhesion. I go through a ton of glue stick, not to mention it is messy. Dremel has a far simpler solution.Well there you go. That is how you extend the life of your Build tape from someone who uses a lot of Dremel printers everyday.

Let me start by saying that I have a 3D20 printer, not a 3D40 (which is what these sheets are made for). I bought these because I could get 3 packs of these for the price of one pack of the sheets that are made for my 3D20 model printer. With that in mind, here are my results:The sheets are obviously a bit too large for the build plate on a 3D20. For that, simply hold it flat against the build plate and cut the excess off from either the left, or the right side. PLA is having a hard time sticking to this particular build sheet. I don't know for certain, but I'm assuming it has something to do with these sheets being meant for a heated bed? Maybe? It definitely has a slightly rougher texture than the build sheets that are made for the 3D20. I don't have the proper glue for it at the moment, but I did happen to have a glue stick (the type for a glue gun), so I rubbed that all over the sheet and it appears to be helping the PLA stick better. We will see how it works. Will be nice if they end up working well and I end up saving $$$.