Tekonsha 119179 ModuLite Protector with Integrated Circuit Protection

It works. I installed it on my 2006 Ford Crown Victoria. (eTrailer has a video on installation for crown victorias)Installation required1.Running wire underneath the car from battery to trunk with an inline 10amp fuse (used part:  Tow Ready 118151 Wiring Kit for 3 Power Modules ) and some zip ties (included with Wiring kit). I did not end up needing the fish tape they showed in the video. I just zip tied the wire tightly to the frame (in my case, there are wire guides already on the frame as well). I had to drill a hole in bottom of the trunk for the wire to go through. There was just enough wire to get from the passenger-side battery to driver side trunk.2.Splicing to the turn and break light wires that are accessible in the trunk and installing the ground. The ground screw was included. I used a power drill to drill the ground into the frame metal. (see video)The wire connections are:Thick Red without tag: connect to black wire from batterythin red wire with tag:Splice to ground wireYellow: Splice to green/orange stripe car wireGreen: Splice to Orange/blue stripe car wireBrown: Splice to brown wire (I found 2 brown wires.. I think either will work).Once you've made all the connections you can test them. You can buy a circuit tester or multimeter, otherwise, the guys down at uHaul will usually let you test it out for free if you ask them.I had tried not connecting to the battery, but had issues with some of the lights being dim or not working at all.This device powers the lights off the battery and the turn signal and tail light wires are just used to determine if the light should turn on or not.

I've yet to install this so my 5-stars may be revised at some future point [see UPDATED 5/1 after installation below, still 5-stars]The component appears well constructed and the connector that mates with the male connector from your trailer appears to be very robust (a similar connector on the cable installed by a professional trailer hitch shop on a prior car I owned was not nearly as good). In addition to the Modulite Protector (with the wires shown) the unit I was shipped also included a plastic bag labeled "Hardware Kit 16506-322" containing the following: + 4 blue quick splice connectors (for splicing into your automobile wiring --- running light, brake light, left turn light, right turn light) + one 10-amp Blade fuse (to be used with an in-line fuse holder -- not included) + one sheet metal screw -- attaching the ground wire to the inside of your trunk. + one spade terminal (which could be used for connecting an in-line fuse holder to your automobile's battery?) + one double-sided 1 1/2 " X 2" adhesive pad (for attaching the Modulite inside the trunk compartment?)Not included (but which you would need to complete the installation according to the instructions included with the Modulite) are: + 12 ga heaver wire to run between the battery in the engine compartment and the trunk compartment + one in-line fuse holder (for the spade type fuse included in the hardware kit) + two butt type connectors for 12 ga wire. One used to connect one end of the 12 ga wire to the fuse holder (in the engine compartment) and the other to connect to the power wire on the Modulite connector. + one more sheet metal screw to attach the Modulite inside the trunk compartment -- the double-sided adhesive pad will keep the ModuleLite from vibrating but I wouldn't rely on it as the only means for attaching inside the trunk). + some means to secure the long green wire that must run along the inside of the trunk compartment from the driver side (where the Modulite is attached) to the tail light on the passenger side. The long green wire is to splice to the passenger-side/right-hand turn signal wire. You could use bits of Duct or Gorilla tape for this I guess. Or other means for wire tie-down.It looked like the original plastic bubble packaging of the ModuLite had been pried open a bit to be able to insert this extra Hardware Kit. It's not clear who was responsible for the extra kit but thanks. If you combine this with the other Amazon item called "Tow Ready 118151 Wiring Kit for 3 Power Modules"http://www.amazon.com/Tow-Ready-118151-Wiring-Modules/dp/B001P2GU2Y/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TMDE63WQ98BAC7VXT7Rthen you'll have all you need for a complete installation. On the other hand, you can probably get the 12 ga wire, in-line fuse holder, and pair of butt connectors at a local auto or electronics store (RIP Radio Shack!) for somewhat less than the $17 price Amazon lists for 118151. Of the additional components needed for installation the 12 ga wire is the most pricey. Amazon sells 12 ga automotive wire from Grand General for under $8 ... Grand General 55251 Red 12-Gauge Primary Wire.UPDATED 5/1 after installation.I've installed this in my 2014 Jetta Sportwagen and it is working fine. There are videos at the eTrailer website with installation details for various cars but the one for the 2014 Sportwagen seems to be much more involved than it needs to be. The video there shows dismantling much of the cargo area flooring and popping loose the side panels to get access to the tail lights. Instead I found that there are doors on both the drivers and passenger sides of the rear cargo areas for accessing the tail lights. These opening provide sufficient access for splicing the signal wires on the ModuLite. I used the large nut holding the tail light assembly for attaching the ModuLite ground (after cutting out a wedge of the round terminal to convert it into a spade terminal). Once you remove the rear hatch threshold (held in place by two plastic screws on the inside vertical face and six spring clips on the underside which release under gentle upward lifting of the threshold), then there is enough space between the plastic side molding and body to fish the green passenger side turn signal wire down from the driver side, run along the underside of the threshold and up to the passenger side tail light access panel. Similarly I fished an end of the extra length of power wire up to the driver's side access panel for attaching to the power wire on the ModuLite. I used a length of plastic wrapped thin coat hanger with a slight bend to do the fishing and then attached a piece of nylon twine to the coat hanger end and pulled the twine thru the opening. Tape the end of the twine to the wire that needs to be fished and pull, The extra length of power wire must be run thru a hole drilled at the back of the spare tire well and under the car up to the engine compartment for attaching to a positive power source (this is the most involved part of the installation). See the videos at the eTrailer web site for how they do this.

Unit works very well on 2006 mustang. Only issue is wiring on mustang has very small wires for lights. I soldered module wires to car wires after stripping insulation. Scotch locks would have probably cut cars wires in half. Total installation took 3 hours. No lift to run wire from trunk to battery.

8 months after installing, it must have shorted out or something, because it stopped powering my trailer lights and a test light lit up in all kinds of interesting ways.I've since replaced it with this one:  Hopkins 46365 Short Proof Power Converter

worked perfectly for my 2000 Saab 9-5 wagon, with no error codes. The only thing is it takes a bit of splicing to mate up with the connector pre-wired in the Saab, but not too hard.

Works great. Pretty easy install.

Worked great, takes a little effort to install, but takes the load off of the cars electrical system. I installed it on a 2005 mustang.

I ordered this unit to replace one from a different manufacturer that had failed. Installation was as simple as cutting the wires from the old unit and splicing the wires from the new unit color by color. Works as it should with no problems so far (2 months old). I do a lot of towing of several different trailers with my work and this unit is an essential part of my work vehicle.