EC003

Update: The alarm has been flawless for months now. There was a time where it started to not turn the car over everytime and that turned out to be a failing battery, not the alarm. I upgraded the battery for a high crank amps battery and everything had been awesome again. I couldn't be happier with this alarm. I do suggest having a pro put it in. I've had this installed a few days now. Here is my experience. I had this installed by a professional alarm/stereo shop. The first thing I would suggest is having the wiring color code on hand before you start. Tech support sent me the one for my vehicle with in a day of bringing up my problem. (more on this later) The install went smooth, and took about 5 hours to do. Most of that time was checking wires (he did not have a wiring color code) and running the sensors and wiring. In first start up, everything worked, but the remote start would start the car, than try to start again every 5 seconds even though the car was running. I emailed tech support, he gave me the color coded wiring diagram, and the solution. Sure enough, I changed the wire he said, amd put it on the wire he suggested, and boom. All done. What I wish I had known. This does not come with a shock sensor. Thankfully it has an output for one to add. (which tech support linked to me. 9.00 shipped) Also, I usually like the red blinking armed light to help deter people. There is no option to add this. The features are nice. One thing I noticed, is I will be inside the house, with my keys in their usual spot, and it must be the edge of range because the truck was constantly locking, than unlocking. Not to worry. There is an easy way to disable the passive locks (push 2 buttons 5 seconds) and enable them. Couldn't be easier. Have a second key handy. They will need one most likely. The chip inside needs to be attached to the lock cylinder, and the key post itself needs to be inserted into the usual keyhole. Have a full back up key on hand. Just in case. Finally, I am hopeful that this alarm will be just as reliable as every other aftermarket alarm I've installed on numerous vehicles with zero issues. If this fails, it will Truely be a piece of junk. But I'm hopeful it is just as reliable as all the other keyless entry alarms. I'm tempted to buy another alarm for 60 bucks just to have on hand in case something bad happens... Time will tell. All in all, I love this remote. It is exactly what I was looking for. (except the shock sensor and red light) turned my 2016 4runner into a modern truck. Customer service was excellent. Keep in mind he is in China. Hours and replies may vary. I'll update of anything bad happens. If there is no update, trust its working well. EDIT: 3/23. Alarm is still working great. The key fobs have broken due to use and age. A part that communicates with the car when approaching seems to have broken off on both. I am hoping to buy new key fobs but don't know where, or what will work. Hoping to hear back from them. Had it professionally installed. Don't let the price fool you. It's a good alarm. I paid like 4 hundred bucks to get it installed though. EASYGUARD sent me a wiring diagram that really helped the installer.

The EC003 is a good design, works great and the install can be a little challenging BUT if all fails READ the INSTRUCTIONS! I put this in a 1967 Chevy Corvair so I did not have to deal with a locking steering column, which the instructions cover a lot of different cars. When using the remove start my 52 year old engine has to be tuned perfectly because the starter only engages for few seconds. For new cars this is not a problem. People are shocked when the car starts when I am walking up to it. Once I had finished the install the EC003 gave me the same features I have in my 2012 Cadillac SRX. I am VERY HAPPY the EC003 best money I have spent for an after market add-on.

Well let me start out by saying I purchased this for my 1967 El Camino. It's a pro tour car and I thought a push to start would be a neat option to have. Installation was fairly easy. Mounting the box and splicing in to a couple of wires was no big thing. All the problems that occurred after the unit was installed. The push to start portion of the unit worked 80% of the time. The other 20% of the time the alarm would randomly go on and place it into non start mode. Oh and by the way don't take the keys further than 10 ft away because the auto valet will automatically attempt to lock the doors and if one of them is open it will set off the alarm. Then again it would randomly set off the alarm if the keys were inside the car, sitting in the console. No rhyme or reason for it to go off. I have written to technical support several times telling him of my problems. The first time he sent me an installation guide, which came with the unit. Secondly I asked them if they had a unit that would perform only push-to-start no alarm functions. That was a big no. So it was a good way to waste $125. After removing the unit and placing the key system back into the car along with a viper alarm, I have never had one oz of problem again. I do not suggest this for a purchase because of the lack of technical support and the lack of quality in the product. Don't waste your time purchasing this product. Not good! If Amazon is listening, I sure would like to send this back and get my money back. It is a worthless POS.

Great product and works as it is intended to. Definitely have to do research beforehand for the locations of all your wires or be able to read pinout diagrams. One wire was a bit tricky (oil inspection wire? Wtf is that) but i discovered it is meant to get a constant pulse so i installed it on the tachometer wire and now works problem free with the remote start. Cool affordable little gadget to an older car (96 miata)

I purchased this product thru Amazon in mid-October and had it delivered on the 24th. I was looking for a remote start and push-button start kit to upgrade my old 2007 Ford F150. I wanted to do this as a DIY project, since I have some familiarity with wiring, and I thought the instructions would be easy to follow. I have to tell you, there is a pretty definite problem with the instructions in that they were not written by anyone who is really fluent in English. They are also, in my opinion, a bit incomplete in how they explain all the wiring and system features (eg., what is the "reset" switch" and the "oil inspection wire" and how do you do "code learning" exactly ???) Nevertheless, a certain amount of "reading between the lines" and additional online research allowed me to see, basically, what was required. However, after a couple of weeks of flummoxing around, studying numerous online videos and website postings, I finally relented and took the unit to a professional installer who did the work (and very neatly, I must say) for $200. I had only been able to get the push-button start to work, not the remote start. In retrospect, as nicely installed as the unit is and as well as it appears to be working after the first couple of days, it was money well-spent to have it professionally installed. In the end, my biggest problem with this unit was due to the fact that it does not come with a dedicated GWR (ground while running) wire. The GWR, per everything I have learned from this adventure, is necessary to allow the NEWER type electronic bypass modules (such as Fortin's Evo-All unit which I had bought and hoped would work with the EC003) to communicate properly with the remote start unit and allow the bypass module to "do its thing" and simulate a key being in the ignition to allow engine start. These newer more technologically updated modules have software or other computerized applications (Fortin calls theirs "Flashlink") that allow one to make an "electronic" copy of the vehicle's chipped key in these newer modules (if your vehicle is one of the newer ones which have this chipped key feature) rather than having to physically store a "hard" copy of the key within the body of one of the "old style" bypass modules (which is still a way to do the ignition key bypass, but which represents very old technology). GWR is a must for the newer electronic bypass modules, but not necessary for the old "hard key copy" ones. I must say that I had a week or so of emailing back and forth to EasyGuard, and their rep, Mr Eddy Kwok, was very eager to try to answer all my questions. Many kudos to him for being so responsive via email. He made a suggestion that I try one of the wires in the 10-pin wiring bundle on the EC003 unit as the GWR (the black/red wire normally meant for the side-door trigger alarm - N/A to me), but this did not work properly for me. And Fortin's tech support verified that without a dedicated GWR, their Evo-All would not be compatible with the EC003. So, in the end, I opted to go with the "old technology" bypass unit which utilizes a physical copied key within its body to allow the unit to sense a key in the ignition and do the engine start. In deference to Eddy and his many answers to customer questions which I had read, he always told people to buy one of these cheaper, "old tech" bypass modules, but I was stubborn and thought I could get the Evo-All to work. But I eventually relented, and I probably spent about $20 for the bypass unit which my installer wanted to use . . . a few dollars more than the bypass unit Eddy was recommending to anyone who would ask. When I did this, I knew that this would mean that a physical key would thus be "buried" within the "old tech" bypass unit somewhere in my truck, so the other thing I did was to have my installers take out the ignition barrel entirely so that, at least, I would not have to utilize a "cut key" with about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the stem sticking out of the ignition port with the key in the "on" position so as to free up the steering wheel from its "locked" position when the ignition is turned to "off". I had seen this technique of removing the ignition barrel used in several You-Tube videos, and for many vehicles, it seems to be a fairly easy process to remove the barrel. You just have to verify what the actual process is for your particular vehicle. For the F150 in general, there is a push-pin that you can access thru a hole in the bottom of the steering column beneath the ignition switch and "push up" utilizing a thin blade object (like the shaft of an Allen wrench or a screw driver") when the key is in the ignition barrel and in the "on" position. Pushing up on this push-pin with the key "on" will many times allow you to remove the ignition barrel entirely by simply pulling on the inserted key. By doing this, it freed up my particular vehicle's steering lock feature which was the whole reason a "cut key" was necessary to be left in the ignition in the first place. If your vehicle has this easy ability to remove the ignition barrel along with the mechanical steering wheel lock tied to the ignition switch, then you may very well be able to utilize this same technique in your own installation. So far, I have a perfectly functioning push-button start switch on my center instrument panel and the old ignition switch area was totally covered over by my installer with some nice plastic trim-work. And the installer did the ignition barrel removal, not me, so if there was any additional wiring/hookups which had to be done to accommodate this technique, they are unknown to me. The entire finished assembly looks nice! The only other hard-to-understand thing was the necessity of the "oil inspection wire". Per what I could glean from everything I read online, this amounts to a "tach sensor" wire which is also a necessity in many of these remote start/alarm units. It seemed from what I was able to study that a good "oil inspection" signal is represented by either a "blue" tach wire underneath the steering dash board (probably different colors depending on your particular vehicle), and/or a splice wire coming from one of the wires on any of the ignition coils (my F150 has 8 such coils). The splice is supposed to be from one of the negative wires on any coil (ie, NOT one of the the red or red/black wires on any of these coils). BUT, I'm not really sure of this, since in the end, my installer did away with my splice to one of my coils and did the wiring in their own way! Anyway, so far, the unit has worked perfectly (just a couple days now). And I'm happy with the work the installer did. I'm an engineer by academic background (not a practicing one, though). So I guess I'd have to say that one needs a pretty good working knowledge of wiring as it applies to automobiles to really know how to get this done in any reasonable time, all factors considered. Nice unit! The only reason why it's not 5 stars from me has to do with the instructions not being clear enough and the unit having no GWR to allow for the newer type of electronic bypass modules. Lastly I would say to please take all my above discussion as IDEAS only, and not as gospel truth! If you have any doubts about what you're doing, then please . . . don't waste your time and risk a possible wiring problem which might cost you big bucks! (ie, like messing up your car's computer with a mis-wiring of this unit!) If in doubt, take it to a professional. You'll be glad you did, and it will be money well spent. My research shows that similar type units would probably cost $700 - $800 installed. In my case, the total cost (not including what I spent for the Evo-All and its associated Flashlink updater) was about half that. If you have any doubts, do as EasyGuard says and get it professionally installed! Hope this helps.

I am the car key. If you have the key on you and you walk up to it the car unlocks. So cool Car has remote start. Doors have to be closed, locked and the emergency brake needs to be engaged for remote start to work however. So all you people who don't engage your emergency brake might not like this. I however already used my emergency brake Everytime before I got this so makes no difference to me. I have a 2001 Chevy prizm and I show my friends the remote start. And all my friends say "I didn't know 2001 Chevies had this feature." And I say back to them. "Yeah man the car is really ahead of it's time and they are super cheap now because it's 2018." 🤣🤣🤣😜😜😜 My dad installed it on the vehicle took him 2 hours day 1, 2 hours day 2 and then worked on it all day day 3 and was done by 6 o'clock day 3. You want to pay someone to install it. It's your money, we didn't have any issues installing it. I'm just saying that's your decision. Hope my review was helpful. 😊😊

Best and worst product. Concept does work but for instance sitting in garage in front of car locks open and close NON STOP, move transmitter to 3 inches from reciver on top of roof, again doors lock and unlock NON STOP without touching transmitter. Put transmitter in other room get piece and quiet. Also if transmitter batt dies good luck you stranded. Cool gadget but making it work (im a mechanic so was able to make it work) but for most you will never be able to figure out connections. It does work but on a 40$ level. Get what you pay for. Fyi iv used this for a year not dsys and nothing but issues, thinking of using a standard key again

Does as it should . All the bad reviews are from people that clearly didn't know what they were doing . Installed on 1984 monte carlo ss

Jävligt premium i kvaliten på produkten! Har ej hunnit koppla in de i min 1998 jeep cherokee XJ

alles bestens soweit. Nur eine Anleitung auch auf Deutsch wäre nicht schlecht...

取り付け車種・スバルインプレッサGDA EASYGUARD EC003を購入する前に下調べを行い、アクチュエーターと5極リレーを購入して何とか自動ロック・アンロックが可能になりました、スタートボタンは問題なく取り付けと動作をしました。

Despite me asking the seller to confirm this product uses rolling codes - which they assured me it does, I did a quick test using a Flipper Zero and it turns out that in fact this product is NOT using rolling codes at all. The main principal of a rolling code, basically, is that the signal sent changes code each time, and the receiver expects the next code in a kind of database table. A "replay attack" as it's known, like shown in my video, could NOT work *if* it was using rolling codes. Rolling Code Remotes can not be replayed, because one that signal has been received by the receiver, it can never be used again. In my video, you can see me record the signal, which activates arms/disarms the Easyguard EC003 , but then as you can see, I can replay the signal, and it will still arm/disarm the alarm. This PROVES it doesn't use rolling codes! As a quick FYI -- the reason I hold the remote so close is because it was a quick video taken using a tripod, and I wanted to keep everything in frame. It works from a greater distance also. The reason I gave this 2 stars instead of just 1, is because the build quality does at least seem better than the £20 ones I've played with from AliExpress, but ultimately, at 4x the price, this has exactly the same security problem. Not using rolling codes, therefore can easily be "hacked" using a signal replay attack. In the UK, this would not be covered under insurance (ignoring thatcham related stuff, the lack of rolling codes is bad) *ANOTHER UPDATE* I tested this using a £5 "starline remote duplicator" -- Yup, able to record and replay the signal. Once it recorded, it can be replayed multiple times forever. Works as a remote replacement -- Again, this should NOT be possible I have been in contact with EasyGuard about all this - apparently "the technicians say it does use rolling codes" (which it obviously doesn't) and they have offered me a Refund upon Return, but my main issues are a) it's falsely advertised as rolling codes, when clearly it isn't and b) I want the company to acknowledge their fault here and FIX the issues (whether it's faulty firmware on the module, or needs better hardware etc)

The alarm works well alright with passive entry just fine. The keyless start was a real hustle though, couldn't star the car engine of my Subaru Exiga 2010. I use the car key for ignition..