ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI 1 in 2 Out Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2MN3D

Saved my 24" Dynex LCD TV from the scrap heap! The HDMI interface on most flat screen TVs today have an embedded authentication signal for Digital Protected Content such as Digital Cable, Blue Ray and DVD Players, Roku, Apple TV, etc. This authentication is known as HDCP or High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection and it is embedded in virtually all later model digital devices that use HDMI interfaces. The device sends an authentication request to the display device (in this case the TV) and expects a return response. If it doesn't get it, the device will not display content on the TV. Yes, I know this is brainless but the entertainment industry isn't known for being all that sharp when it comes to technology (e.g. copyright protection via encryption). So the TV can be functioning perfectly but if the HDCP part of the HDMI interface fails (and this happens all the time especially on cheaper TVs) or the TV is old enough to where it doesn't have the HDCP authentication built in, you will never get your digital device to work with it. SO, this little bugger fixes the problem for about 25 bucks which is way cheaper than buying a new 24" LCD TV for $250 like what I was faced with. You put this between the HDMI port on the TV and the input device (which in my case is another 5 way splitter that allows me to plug a bunch of devices into a single TV port). At that point this device talks to your digital devices and responds with the authentication rather than forwarding it through to the TV where it would fail. Problem solved, money saved! I'd say that's a win. :-) So if your Roku stick, Apple TV or Blue Ray player suddenly won't display content on your flat screen TV (and usually it displays an error message like "Can't display protected content or some such garbage) or you have an older TV with HDMI and it won't work, give this little wonder a whirl. Pretty much guaranteed to work if the HDCP interface is what has failed.

It makes it possible to plug a computer into your TV and stream from commercial sites or watch Blu-Ray and similar videos by stripping HDCP. Or, you can split a signal to two screens, but the second signal may cause HDCP issues. This is older technology. It works with HDMI 1.2 and 1.3. Don't expect 4k video and 10 bit sound. It works fine with 5.1 surround sound and 1080P picture quality. I think the lights are silly, but the entire device hides well behind the TV leaving only the source cable hanging so you can plug in your laptop or computer. I didn't experience any heat issues. I had no issues plugging a MacBook Pro, Windows 10 Acer or Windows 11 Lenovo into a 2011 Samsung 3D TV.

I am writing this review to help clarify the HDCP stripping capability of some U9 ViewHD products. Notice that the “Capacity” description in the Amazon review headers vary, since reviews for different U9 ViewHD products are grouped together. This grouping can lead to confusing one product’s capabilities with another’s. (Hence the need for spelling out the model description in the review.) I have tested three U9 ViewHD products and here are the results. “ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI 1 in 2 Out Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2MN3D” – purchased in 2017, passed through HD signal without HDCP in the output. (Nice.) “U9 ViewHD Latest 4K 1x2 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out EDID Xbox PS3/4 Roku Chromecast Shield Fire Stick Apple TV Blu-ray Dual Monitor Display | Model: U9-Pluto” - purchased in 2020, passed through HD signal without HDCP in the output. Note, the USB power input for the U9-Pluto model is only needed in some applications (not sure which), and this splitter will work without the power supply for other applications. Mine worked without the power supply to split a 1080i, 5.1 audio signal. “ViewHD UHD1X2SA 1 in 2 Out 1x2 HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 Splitter with 4K to 1080P Down Scaler and Audio Extractor | 4K@60Hz | HDR Dolby Vision | 3.5mm / Optical and HDMI Audio Output to HDMI AVR Receiver” - purchased in 2020, passed through HD signal with the HDCP info in the output. So with the UHD1X2SA model, you may get a blank screen with some applications due to the HDCP. Perhaps this is what is meant by “Does not bypass HDCP” or “HDCP compliant”. Note that all three devices worked well for their designed purpose and had a good build quality. The VHD-1X2MN3D purchased in 2017 is still working (in Nov 2020).

So I bought this device as a HDCP filter/stripper or whatever for my PS3, since that system had given me trouble with my Elgato HD60 S+ capture card, where I wouldn't get any kind of signal on either my TV or my computer if my Elgato was anywhere in the PS3's video chain. I've got an HDMI switcher in my setup, and I doubt that would've done much to the HDCP situation with my PS3 on its own. Upon unboxing the splitter, I was surprised that the device was a bit heftier than I had initially expected, which was promising. All you get in the small package is the splitter itself and its power adapter, and so you'll have to supply your own output HDMI cable. Setting the splitter up with my PS3 was simple enough. I first moved the output end of the PS3's HDMI cable into the splitter's input port, and then I grabbed a spare HDMI cable I had on hand and got both ends plugged into the splitter's "Output 1" port and one of my HDMI switcher's input ports respectively. During my testing, I noticed that my recorded footage had an AWFUL screeching noise in place of the game audio. In an attempt to troubleshoot the issue, I re-ran the PS3's automatic audio setup on HDMI, which seemed to fix the issue by only picking out the default "Linear PCM 2 Ch. 44.1kHz" and "Linear PCM 2 Ch. 48kHz" options that you can't untick if I recall correctly. If the automatic audio setup doesn't pick those for whatever reason, make sure those are the only options picked. I would like to make it clear that using this splitter with a PS3 will limit your available audio settings through HDMI to the default "Linear PCM 2 Ch. 44.1kHz" and "Linear PCM 2 Ch. 48kHz" options, so I'd suggest any audiophiles to keep that in mind if that's something you're worried about. I was using OBS Studio for my recordings, and I'd recommend looking up how to adjust the program's audio sampling rate. OBS's setting should match with the sampling rate on the other audio devices in your PC's recording setup to minimize lag when you have OBS output sound from your capture device. However, I'd like to clarify that the audio in recordings don't seem to suffer from any sort of lag problem. Unfortunately, you'll lose HDMI-CEC or "Control for HDMI" functionality on Slim and Super Slim PS3 systems when using this splitter with those systems, since it explicitly doesn't support that as mentioned in the product description. Lastly, I've seen suggestions to use the splitter's 2nd output port for PS3 HDCP stripping purposes, but I'd like to note that using the 1st output port has been working fine for me personally.

I bought this device because I often capture or livestream different gaming consoles like Xbox, PS4 and including the PS3 and PlayStation Vita TV. The PlayStation 3 / VitaTV both have an HDCP block which stops capture devices from capturing ANYTHING from the PS3's, and PSVitaTV's HDMI slot. So you WILL need an HDMI Splitter like this one. This device came with the 1x2 HDMI Mini Splitter, a power cable, and a User Manual. I don't think it came with an HDMI cable, I'm not too sure. This device has 1 HDMI input and 2 HDMI Output slots. and 1 power supply port. The 1 HDMI input slot is for connecting the device you want to capture like the PS3 or PSVitaTV. The 2 HDMI output slots 1 and 2 are for (Like I do) Connecting a TV (1) and a Capture device (2). What I like about this device is that there are also 3 red lights indicating that a signal is live (connected to) each of the HDMI slots. I know that these things can burn out from over use or always be connected, so I make a habit of disconnecting the power cable when I am done with the device to avoid over use of it. I've had this device since October 13th 2015 up until now December 13th 2015. It's been working flawlessly since purchase. (Edited as of Nov 2025. Device is still going strong.) Downsides: The only problem I had or some may have is that There is only 1 slot for connecting multiple consoles into 1 HDMI slot for.. say a TV. But it's not a HDMI Switch Splitter so I can't really complain or even argue with it. This is mostly used for connecting 1 device to capture and also use with your TV to watch as you capture with another device. OR for those in some cases who want to have the image from one device being split to 2 different display (TV/Monitors). This device will not make some thing like a PC support 2 monitors to have dual monitor support. Unless you wanted to have dual monitors that just show the exact same screen. Overall: This device has been a GREAT help with my gaming and sharing experience It does exactly what it says and it works very great. ''''' Attention: If you purchase any of these devises be SURE to not keep them plugged in all the time. Disconnect the power when not in use. So you are not overheating the device. Extend the life period by DISCONNECTING WHEN NOT IN USE. Constantly plugged in may cause device to heat up.

Works like a charm! I connected it to my Apple TV 3 and then to my Hauppauge - HD PVR 2 (Gaming Edition) and my Mac then brought up the Apple TV and tried all the services I subscribe to. It works. Now I can save my favorites that always go away. There was one show I used to LOVE that vanished from the universe for more than 10 years, only to resurface recently on that service that starts with an H. Now I can archive copies of my long lost favorite so I can enjoy it in my golden years and share with my grand daughter when she gets older. :) The only problem I really had is that sometimes the TV that I was monitoring on would go black and a stupid message of "NOT SUPPORT!" would show up on it. Despite that the other line feeding the Hauppauge kept running without interruption. I think it was sending a weird video signal to the TV for some crazy resolution and that was making it go full stupid. Another problem, but I think this was more with the Hauppauge, is that if you hit record first then hit play on (any service) the audio goes really, really wrong and makes a very loud buzzing noise. You have to abort the recording and start over. Through trial and error I found that you hit play first and then watch the little progress wheel, let it spin a few times, like 2-3 seconds then hit record on the Hauppauge menu then as soon as you see that it's capturing hit preview and you can then watch/listen to the output of the recording to verify that it's going right. This may be a Mac only issue, I can't say about windows as I don't use M$ at all. YMMV.. As for heat, it does not get hot at all. It's very mildly warm, just enough that you can tell that it's powered up, just barely warm. I like it enough that I'm going to buy two more just to have spares in case this one dies or these things become rare. Money well spent and I will be buying additional units. Very happy. :) Update: I bought a Roku 4 and wired this gadget inline in addition to a 3x1 HDMI switch and my Hauppauge. I tried everything on the Roku and I am able to simultaneously view and capture audio/video into my Mac. I drew a very crude diagram (attached below) of how I hooked things up. This gives me pretty much infinite possibilities. It works. No fuss, no muss, it just works. I can't imagine why other people are having problems. Maybe they should get a woman to hook things up for them.. :D

I have read several reviews of the ViewHD splitter on the internet, but after trying a different brand of HDMI splitter (http://www.amazon.com/splitter-ports-swither-XBOX360-Blu-ray-Xbox/dp/B003UYOEMI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) which did not work properly I was a bit skeptical. I am using my for a bit of an unusual situation, and I want to share how I am using the ViewHD splitter in case anyone else is trying to accomplish the same thing. I have Time-Warner Cable, and I utilize a Ceton InfiniTV 6 cablecard adapter that allows me to save TV shows on my computer (like a DVR only with much more hard drive space and it records up to six shows recording at once - a great product by the way) but allowed me to eliminate my monthly DVR rental fee. Unfortunately Time-Warner Cable designates just about all of their channels as copy-once. What that means is that you cannot view the files other than from the computer onto which they were originally recorded, and you cannot convert the files on the computer to a different format in order to then put them on an iPad, Kindle, or smart phone (e.g. for long car trips or airplane trips for our children) or to save them if you have to change your computer's hardware. Other cable companies (Verizon Fios, Comcast) do not have this restriction, but I cannot get those where I live. I have a Hauppauge Colossus recording device, and I used to record TV shows off of our Time-Warner DVR box through the component output. But now that I no longer have the Time-Warner DVR box and just have the Ceton InfiniTV with a cablecard, I do not have component output as an option. What I was intending to use the splitter for was to strip the HDCP from the WTV files so that I could re-record shows from one computer back to another computer in a different format so that I could then convert them to mp4 files and use them on our iPad or be able to watch them on a different computer on my home network. The previously mentioned 1X2 HDMI splitter was unable to accomplish this. But with the ViewHD splitter I was able to do exactly what I had set out to do. I have an HDMI cable going from my HTPC to the ViewHD input port. I have another HDMI cable going from the ViewHD 1 output port to my TV. That works great for watching shows recorded on the HTPC. When I want to record the show to another computer in a different format, I run another HDMI cable from the ViewHD 2 output port into the Hauppauge Colossus HDMI input port and...voila! It works perfectly! I can now save these shows onto another computer in .TS, mp4, or M2TS formats. From there I can convert them to any other format if necessary and/or edit them (e.g. taking out the commercials - for which I use VideoReDo software - another great product, by the way.) So, all in all, this ViewHD HDMI splitter works perfectly and produces two identical high-definition signals from one HDMI source. And for the price you cannot beat it! ADDENDUM (07/06/2014) - I also have now run the HDMI output from my computer to the ViewHD splitter and then run one HDMI output cable to my monitor and the second HDMI output cable back into the Hauppauge Colossus on the same computer. With a little bit of trial and error with the speakers I am now able to record back into the same computer instead of having to run a longer HDMI cable from one computer to another. This box is fantastic!

Since it has been suggested that the reviews are for various hopefully-similar items, let me start by saying that /this/ review is the VHD-1X2MN3D. As to durability: the first thing I did while unpacking it was -- drop it on the floor. It survived. As to solving the problem -- it does, but there is a wrinkle. I tested two different items: a splitter cable with an HDMI plug on end and five RCA plugs on the other, designed to be used with a component video input; and an HDMI-to-VGA convertor. Neither worked with the BD player I bought. The HDMI-to-VGA convertor worked with a laptop, and identified itself as "DigitalTelevisionLCD,SVGA". But when I added an external BD drive and PowerDVD 18 Ultra to the laptop, it would not play the BDs I ordered because of HDCP problems. The splitter cable does not work with the Laptop, presumably because it relies on whatever is on the other end to identify itself through the component video cables, if that is possible. This device has lights that tell whether the power and each connection is working. Plugging the splitter cable in produced no light and did not allow the Laptop or the BD Player to use the TV at all, but plugging the converter in allowed the Laptop to play BD discs and the BD Player to use the TV. So, yes, this can solve an HDCP problem. But the item plugged in must at least identify itself (more properly, must be accepted as an output device, which may have other conditions attached that I cannot detect). Or the item on the other side (so to speak) must do so (but I cannot say that this will work, it just seems reasonable). This may explain why this works for some purchasers and not for others.