OEM Replacement Parts Stens 285-585 Spindle Assembly, Original version

So I read about 200 reviews and the comments on the reviews. I was worried to buy any of these products so after a couple days of going back and fourth I settled on this one.1st - The little brass grease fitting that everyone was complaining about breaking off and being junk was actually a pretty thick and sturdy grease fitting.2nd - yes, I bought a grease gun just in case I needed it. When I received the part it came in a thick plastic bag with all necessary hardware for mounting it including the 4 bolts to anchor the the deck, the ever important pulley space, top bolt and bottom bolt. I took the grease fitting off to look and see if their was any grease and from what I could tell their wasn’t. I then reinstalled the grease fitting and primed the grease gun. When I applied grease to the grease fitting guess what happened... the grease went where it was supposed to and the brass fitting didn’t break. Shocker! I know right! Mind you I was shaking like Great Granny Gertrude because I was sure it was going to break. It held even through all my fumbling. I must have pumped the trigger on the grease gun 15-20 times and said that was enough.3rd - I had a limited selection of tools as most of mine are still in storage from a recent move but I got it done from start to finish with the removal of the old to the install of the new. I used a 5/8, 1/2, & 3/8 sockets with a 1/2” driver, I also used 2 Phillips head screwdrivers, 1 adjustable plier, and a hammer. So I had to replace my unit due to the blade bolt breaking off and not being able to extract it. With that being said it is extremely difficult to remove the riser and pulley if your blade bolt breaks off, you have nothing to prevent the main shaft from spinning. So here’s where the hammer and screw drivers come in handy. For starters I freaked out because I had tried everything to stop the shaft from spinning but I couldn’t. A couple of minutes in silence and it hit me, Starr at something long enough and stuff starts falling in line. So I used the hammer and a screw driver to try to peel off the bottom housing because it looked like I could, don’t do this it’s a waste of energy and time, instead take 2 Phillips head screw drivers and look down at the top of your pulley once you break loose and completely drop the assembly.... once your assembly is free and the pulley is sitting on the deck grab the two screwdrivers and spin the pulley until you two wholes directly in front of you, then insert the screwdrivers into the two holes, once you do this look at the holes from the mounting bolts, they will not line up exactly but this is what I had to do, now take your screwdrivers and insert them into the bolt holes while also being in the pulley holes. This will keep the pulley from moving and should allow you to be able to at least break free the pulley nut. All I had was an adjustable set of pliers and a pretty good grip, if you have a better set of tools you would probably have the right socket which will be easier. Once you break it free your good to go.4th - Install was way easier than removal for me. I recommend removing the grease fitting as it is a tight fit just don’t get debris in the opening, then I recommend installing the assembly and tightening the four deck bolts all the was first, then install the blade as this will give you the leverage you need to make tightening the top bolt easier, then move to the pulley - - - WAIT!!! - - - put the pulley washer on first before the pulley! Very important! Once the washer is in place then place your pulley and belt on next, get the pulley to seat over the spline(star) shaft, then use your pulley nut and tighten down while holding onto the blade with the opposite hand, once you’ve tightened down the pulley( at first you will see some resistance if you try to hand tighten this bolt, it will look and feel like it’s going to leave you 1/2” short or so, don’t worry use the socket and tighten it down the rest of the way) all the way go ahead and install the grease fitting( I recommend using a wrench as it doesn’t leave lots of room for a socket), clean up your mess and you should be off to the races.I hope this helps someone as I had no way of knowing what I was doing as this was the first assembly of this type I had ever removed or installed. I wasted a lot of time in the hopes that maybe I could save someone some time. Also don’t listen to all these crazy horror stories of people’s experiences. I think my experience is the norm as far as the actual product and the install. Very very easy! Product arrived earlier than expected and was exactly what I ordered. I’ve attached some pics of what I was working with and the finished product.NOTE: keep all of the old pieces of the original riser. You never know until it’s completely installed.

update 10/7/14; These DO require that one fills the cavity with a good quality grease. After installing I felt there was no need for grease as the included bearings are sealed. However, these units get very hot when run without grease. I used Valvoline all purpose synthetic grease and used approximately 1/2 of a large tube before grease began to exit at the bottom bearings. They are now running nice and cool and much quieter. So, have a full tube of grease on hand to fill the very large void area so they are properly cooled, lubricated and protected from moisture. Once filled, two or three pumps every 25 hours will provide a very long life. I hope this helps.I ordered two of these units to replace my 8 years old originals on my Craftsman YS4500 with a 42" deck. These come complete with the 4 bolts to fasten it to the housing, the holes ARE pre-tapped even though the description states they are not! The bolts are plenty long enough to fasten the belt guides and the bottom slice guard with plenty to spare. I was very happy about this because every one of my old bolts broke while removing them, which is very common when threading steel into aluminum and 8 years have past. I am unsure why a grease fitting is used on the shaft as both bearings are sealed, my original housing bearings were still quiet and tight after 350 hrs. without grease fittings. They were replaced because the shafts were bent from object strikes and it would no longer mow evenly. However, the grease will prevent moisture problems as well as aid in cooling. Just be prepared to use a tremendous amount of grease to fill the large void area. Personally I see no reason to grease them. The SAE grade 5 blade bolt included is of high quality but the washer is flat rather than the original "cupped" washer. These do not hold the blade tightly enough and will wear the stared teeth quickly from the blade moving slightly and should be corrected. I cant see where the difference in cost of a flat vs. a cupped washer would be an issue in manufacturing. I used my old blade bolts and washers as they where a grade 8 SAE 3/8-24 fine thread with the correct washer. I torqued them to 50 lbs. ft. and the top pulley bolt I also torqued to 50 lbs. ft. I mowed for 1 1/2 hours and re-checked all the fasteners, all are still properly fastened and torqued, none loosened up which is a good sign of quality steel that doesn't stretch. Overall, this product is very well made, equaling the OEM quality as far as I can tell in a rather thorough inspection. The bearings are of high quality hardened steel with the manufacturer listed as "AR", the housing seems stout with thick walls, the nuts and bolts are all high quality as well as the shaft. When you factor in that these units are less than half the price of the OEM assembly (which does not come with any nuts, bolts or washers) it is a no brainer. IMPORTANT; One item this unit does NOT include is the spacer that is used under the top pulley that places the pulley's torque load on the bearings inner race and prevents it from rubbing on the outer race or housing. Your old one is likely damaged from compression or imbedded into your old pulley. It is a very inexpensive item and you will be glad you purchased it when you realize your old one is not reusable when you are in the middle of assembling. It should not be reused if you want maximum life and performance without wobbling top pulleys. Grab one for each housing as well as replacement top pulleys, may as well do it right so you don't have to revisit it for several years. My top pulleys inner bore were in poor condition and fit very sloppy with almost no inner spline teeth remaining. In the end, I purchased the housing assembly, the pulley spacer  Husqvarna 187690 Spindle Washer For Husqvarna/Poulan/Roper/Craftsman/Weed Eater , new Maxpower blades  Maxpower 331742S Blade for 42-Inch Cut Poulan/Husqvarna, Replaces 139775 , and the pulley  Husqvarna 195945 Spindle Pulley For Husqvarna/Poulan/Roper/Craftsman/Weed Eater , this ensured I would not run into any issues. For those wondering, these units are made in china according to the stamping on the bottom of the housing near the blade bolt. However, they may be simply assembled there as "AR" bearings are an American company. It is possible they have manufacturing plants worldwide however. No worries though, it is a quality unit.Kevin BowleyKevin's Small Engine and Tractor RepairSouth Berwick ME. 03908