Virgin Territory: Exploring the World of Olive Oil

Virgin Territory is Nancy Harmon Jenkins’s comprehensive, and often passionate, guide to the world of extra virgin olive oil. The first third of the book is informational, covering the history of olive cultivation, the mechanics of oil extraction, the differences between types of oil, misconceptions about tasting and storing oil, and the health benefits of olive oil. You will learn how to properly taste olive oil and how to distinguish well-made oil from rancid or “fusty” oil. I learned a lot about how to seek out good quality olive oil. There is a helpful appendix that lists suppliers and online sources.The rest of the book is devoted to recipes using extra virgin oil. I found that the most compelling were the simplest---that is, those in which the taste of good quality oil is ascendant. The recipe for marinated green olives is worth the price of the book. More complicated and highly seasoned recipes—one for curry, for example—well, I couldn’t see the point of using olive oil, even a less expensive one, in these. And fried chicken? Really? My Yankee thriftiness balked.One aspect of this book, which is absolutely devoted to helping a consumer appreciate honest, well-crafted oils, struck me as rather dishonest. The oils of many countries are mentioned, including those of Palestine, one of whose producers merits a two-page cameo. Nowhere are the olive oils of Israel mentioned, except those of biblical times. Is olive oil no longer produced in Israel? Or, if it is, is it of such poor quality as to not be worth a mention? Should a consumer be warned against it? Of course not. In this book, which aims to be THE last word on olive oil, Israeli producers appear to be the subject of a literary boycott. I say “appear,” because Ms. Jenkins confines herself to a few highly critical observations about difficulties the Israeli army creates for some Palestinian producers. Nowhere does she forthrightly state what becomes evident, which is that her political views have led her to exclude any mention of Israeli olive oil in her book. Perhaps she felt that these views would affect the sale of her book. However, in politics, as in the world of olive oil, honesty is always the best policy.M. Feldman

For years I've used olive oil (and butter) to cook, and for any dining experiencing as well. You certainly can't beat the real thing for taste, and for the way it interacts with other ingredients to create memorable meals. Now we learn that both are far healthier than other options and alternatives. The scope of this book and the range of information about olive oil is truly beyond encyclopedic while being accessible and fascinating. Ms. Jenkins does focus on certain countries to the exclusion of others (I love Portuguese olive oil which gets barely a mention) but if you know the basic principles of olive oil production and about olives you should be able to "translate" to other countries. The recipes are great -- I have seen other books of recipes using olives and olive oil but this one easily exceeds them. The only negative things that I have to say about the book is about the production. The photos lack details and captions. It would be so much more interesting if they had been included. And the presentation of some of the dishes exemplifies one of my pet peeves: the current penchant to exhibit gorgeous food on truly ratty china/cooking ware, served up with badly tarnished silverware. Those presentations (the norm in many recent cookbooks which are otherwise exceptional) are very off putting. It is almost as if someone dropped the food on the ground and then scooped it up into the closest [dirty] serving container and offered it to ones guests. I am all about shabby chic, being a somewhat tattered person myself, but tarnished silver grease encrusted cooking ware and the like do not compliment -- or complement -- the food.

This is a superb and beautifully written book by noted food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins. I own many of her books as I share her love of Mediterranean food and cooking, and in my opinion this is the best she has done. The recipes focus on the best ingredients available prepared with integrity, love and skill - and what's more:they are HEALTHY and GOOD! Her journey into raising and harvesting her own olives and learning to extract the best oil possible is a riveting story, as are her many travels to far-flung parts of the world in order to taste a wide spectrum of oils. She certainly has convinced me that it is as important to invest in premium oils as in premium wine.

I pick up this book at least once a month for recipes, as it is chalk full of healthy ones. Also, I use it as a reference at times when explaining to people about extra-virgin oil and the process of making it. I certainly recommend this book if you have any desire to learn more about olive olive and what it takes to make a great bottle of this liquid gold!

Nancy Harmon Jenkins a great and revered food archeologist and historian as well a a terrific writer of all things Mediterranean. Here she has taken one of her favorite subjects, olive oil, about which she is deeply concerned and knowledgeable, and written a warm, casual, delightful and totally enlightening book. More than any of her great books, this has a personal touch which is richly appealing. The recipes make sense and excite the senses as well.

Beautiful book and well-written, nice illustrations and recipes. I wished the author were not anti-Jewish and one side in favor of the Palestinian cause; sad to see how a good book can be turned into propaganda against Israel. The historical survey is good but long and boring. it is unclear which producers are dishonest and which are not, although author claims it happens all the time one cannot tell the difference from just reading the book.

So excited to receive my copy today. A beautiful book filled with information, recipes, anecdotes. A great cookbook when a cookbook isn't just a cookbook but an exploration and an elucidation. Like the great MFK Fisher, Nancy Harmon Jenkins brings us so much more in her writing than mere recipes; her writing is an adventure!