CMT 807.128.11 3-in-I Flush Trim Bit for MDF & Laminates, 1/4-Inch Shank, 1/2-Inch Cutting Length

Forget about trend buy CMT I’m sold

This is an excellent laminate trimming. While I'm not a contractor, I've done quite a bit of laminate work and have found this to be about the best bit so far. Couple of suggestions. First, if you want a straight edge with no taper, you need to be careful to only extend the bit the least amount possible. The further you extend past the bearing, the greater the taper. Second, it seems easiest to start this bit near the material so the bearing doesn't come up to full rotation speed. Since it's a triangle bearing, it will whack the material if you start it away from your guide material, it's easier to just let the bearing touch a bit and then back in to the material the rest of the way. Lastly, it's not great for inside corners, so you'll still need to have a solid ¼" carbide bit on hand, but that's really not a big deal. I can definitely say I've had a few pieces of material ruined by standard flush trim bits when the bearing fails. The solid carbide bits are fine, but can cause burn on your material (unless you lubricate the material). This bit solves both those problems, and offers a variable bevel at the same time. It's definitely worth the money if you do any level of laminate work.

It really makes trimming lamination so much easier...you make much less silly mistakes.

The best bit I’ve used

These are great bits for laminate only wish they'd come with a spare bearing block. Great seller and quick post

I used this bit for my first attempt at laminating countertops. My recommendation is to practice on a test piece until you get the perfect depth for the bit. We used it with a standard router (not a trim router) and it worked perfectly. If you would rather err on the side of caution, my suggestion is to adjust your bit depth so that there is just enough blade showing to cut through your laminate. This will cut the laminate nearly flush, then you can hand file the edge to a perfect smoothness. This is more work, but it's better than the alternative. There is a slight taper to the blade, so that if you drop it too much, it will take off some of your edging, which is a very bad thing! I learned this the hard way. But this was user error and I only have myself to blame. I'm sure there is a perfect depth that will cut your top laminate completely flush with the edge without damaging the edge, but I prefer to spend more time hand filing than take the risk of edge damage. The plastic piece on the bottom is genius. It doesn't get clogged with glue the way a rotating bearing would. It glides easily along the surface and didn't leave any scratches. No lubrication is necessary. We didn't have any problems with this bit burning the laminate if we hesitated in place. Overall, I'd say it's a must have for anyone doing work with plastic laminate and contact cement.